Allright, I finally got my LT1 cam installed but the engine doesn't seem to run right anymore. It has a very hard time running at idle and seems to lack a lot of low end power. It bogs a lot when the accelerator is pressed. It seems to run okay after it reaches about 2500 rpms but below that it has very little power compared to what it used to. I think it might be the fuel pressure or the timing but I thought I would get some more opinions before I start messing with it some more. At idle it runs extrememly rough and is hard to keep running if it is in drive and stopped for more than about a minute or two. If anyone has any ideas on making it run better I would greatly appreaciate it.

 

Have you checked your timing. Its probably off.
Set base timing to 6* advance

 

I have the base timing set at 4* right now, I'll try setting it at 6* and see what happens.

 

Changing the timing 2 degrees isn't going to cure the problem you describe. Take a look and make sure that all of your vacuum lines are hooked up properly. Also verify your sparkplug wires if those were disconnected in the swap.

Lon

 

I would bet a 100 dollar bill that it is a timing issue try to advance your timing some more like AJ said, Did you make your sure you got your distriutor back in where it was supposed to go.

 

I know the distributor is back where it goes. I think I'm going to try advancing the timing up to 8*, that's where I was running it with the stock cam. Then I'm going to recheck the valce lash. I have a feeling some of my valves might be too tight. I'll try this later today and let you guys know what happens, thanks for the help.

 

Any time that what this site is for

 

Having the lash too tight will make the car run real rough, I'd say even less than a 1/2 turn too much will almost stall out the engine. I found the twist pushrod while tightening with the engine off works pretty well, I tightened until I just barely couldn't twist the pushrod with my greasy fingers. (just did that sat. when I finished up my L98 cam swap.) Idles smooth with the stock chip and stock FPR.

 

Do you have any idea on your fuel pressure? Mine bogs bad because its so flooded it dont wanna run right.

 

When you changed the camshaft, what kind of timing drive did you use?

Basically, did you degree the cam on installation?

 

Allright, I got her running right again, I ended up loosening up the valve lsh a little, about a turn on each one and its running great now. I did degree the cam when I put it in. I gave up on setting the lash the turn the push rod way, the easiest is to take an old valve cover and cut the center of it out so you can access the rocker arms, then you hold it on and run the motor, you turn the nut out until the rocker arm starts to click, tighten until it stops clicking and then I went a 1/4 turn more. It runs like it should now. Thanks for all the help.

 

How big of a difference do you fell in power form when you put the cam in

 

I'm having the same low end problem after my swap too. I didn't degree my cam but I know it's real close. I've gone back through my valve lash a few times now so I don't think that's the problem. I've even got a custom prom in now for my setup off of winaldl logging. I'm having to advance my timing all the way to the left edge of the metal timing piece with the pointers on it just to keep it from bogging off the line. Problem is when I start getting that far advanced it sometimes will ping and miss. The only vacum line that might be hurting me is the one that used to go to the egr black box looking deal, it has two lines going into it one from the tbi and the other used to go to egr solenoid.

Any idea's?

 

The SOTP difference is noticible at the lower rpms but at the higher rpms 2500+ there is a huge difference. I'm glad I did the swap because with my 3.73 gears she was having lots of trouble pulling hard at the top end and this fixed a lot of that. The local track opens on the 29th so hopefully I'll get up there soon and see what kind of times I can get.

Your problems sound about like mine were, try setting the valve lash with the car running, it gets messy but it worked for me. I tried a couple times setting it with the engine not running and just couldn't get it right. Did it with the engine running and I had it set perfectly in about 15 minutes, can't beat that.

Andrew