In my quest for 13's, I've done a crane cam (208/214), headers, flows, no cat, 160 thermo, 3.42 posi, and custom chip. Now mind you, i'm on a college students budget, but for my next mod i'm leaning towards a torque converter. What stall do you think i should run w/ what i've got and if you think theres a better mod out there for my buck please let me know. thanks

Donnie

 

Tq converter wont help you if you dont do your rear suspenion to handle the harder launch. With street tires you'll spin for 3 days with a 2400+ stall. Id get some drag radials at least before you get the stall. But they do make driving an auto a lot more fun

 

I just got done with my stall. Big difference! I put in a midwest race convertor, www.midwestconvertors.com i think if not look it up on yahoo. Mine is a 2500-3000 rpm stall. He's right about spinning alot more but thats also more fun. I've tried launching at 2 grand with alot more success than the stock convertor. 2100 is about all i can hold it to with the brakes, I did however stall it up to 2500 with the e brake on too. I didn't try an launch it though.

You'll notice a big difference down low, it's a pain in the *** to put in in my experience.

 

Based on the mods i mentioned I had, do you think the stall range you mentioned would be good? I heard somewhere that if you take a late model S-10 TC they stall around 2200-2400. Any thoughts?

 

I would go around a 2400 stall. I have a 3200 vigilante stall on my LS1, but your power band will be lower and I think a 2400 will be perfect.

 

this summer im going with a 2400 stall SLP TC on a Pro Built Street/Strip tranny and 1.6 rocker arms.

 

Just wondering why you decided to go with the SLP torque converter?

 

SLP usually has pretty high quality parts. I was going to get an ACT 9.5" TC and still might, but im not sure if i need a 9.5" converter for a daily driver, especially if im only going with a 2400 stall. The SLP one is also $225 cheaper.

 

If you arent really concerned with price I would recommend a vigilante converter. They are a bit on the pricey side though.

 

im trying to do the tranny and TC this summer, so i kinda want to keep the cost down.

 

Thats understandable. Be sure to keep us up to date on your gains at the track.

 

Ill probably have new times with the 1.6 rockers, tranny, and TC November 2nd. By the way, do trannies have a break-in time?

 

For the cost of a really good torque converter you could snag a used T56. A stick tranny will help free up lost hp in the drivetrain. It's similar to using a smaller torque converter.
Before torque converter I'd go with gears/posi, headers, healthy cam. I'd probably even do the heads before the torque converter. That's just me. I did my engine swap and kept the stock TC. I ran that 13.8 at 102 with it bogging off the line, but that was more of a tuning issue, not so much the converter.
What is your budget for the transmission and does it have other work done to it like a shift kit?

 

A good properly matched torque converter on even a stock engine is a proven .5 second difference in et. I'm not gonna get into the whole auto versus manual thing, but I payed $700 for my vigilante 3200 stall converter, which I would much rather have than a manual, but to each his own. I would just rather have a better et and less hp than more hp and worse et. I bet if you went ahead and installed a torque converter on your car you could possibly hit low 13's. The better torque multiplication is worth it alone, not to mention the insane launches they enable.

 

What TBI cars have show .5 second improvements from just a TC swap? I know it's an improvement but I can't see .5 seconds from something that already has no power above 4500. The LT1's and LS1's can see such improvements because they come from the factory with tight converters. They are also engines that don't make much low end torque in comparison to TBI and TPI.
I could see a few tenths definatly but at the same time a manual trans TBI has been proven half second if not more faster than the same car with an auto. That's why I brought it up. You'll also notice that torque converters are matched to cams but with a smaller motor the stall rating will go down. I think most are rated for a generic 350ci 350hp or so it seems.

 

Yes you are right about how they are matched, but I think there are a few companies that will actually give you a certain number of free tries on torque converters to find the perfect one. A 2500 stall on a 406 making 500 hp will not be a 2500 stall on a 305 making 200 hp. If it were me I would wait for the torque converter to be one of the last mods I did just so I could make sure I had everything matched correctly. The factory converter on these cars are pretty lame if you ask me and there is much to be gained even on a stock engine. A pair of slicks and gears would further take advantage of a better torque converter.

 

That's why I liked the Midwest torque convertor so much. The LS1 guys seem to be using them alot. My convertor only ran me $225.00.

 

I put in my 9.5" ACT convertor with a 2200 stall and man what a difference, best mod I ever did. I am in the process of putting in the new rear with 3.70's in it from my 2.73's I cant wait. Just have to finish the damn brakes.

 

But arnt those midwest converters non lock-up????

 

What does that converter actually stall up to?

 

Not sure really. But it sure gives ya a kick in the butt even with the LO3. Its from Dana at probuilt, he probly knows more about them han anyone else.

 

Yeap, I think a torque converter is the most overlooked mod for an auto. It is probably one of the single best things you can do to improve your car's performance.

 

Yeah it's a non lockup. They offer a lock up style for more money. But the stock converter is non lock up so I'm not missing it. I'd say the stall is one of the best mods I've done so far. I still need 3.73's w/posi. The new stall complements my new powerband really well.

 

The stock converter is lock-up

 

Sorry, my mistake.