Well a couple weeks ago i started the tear down!
A little back ground on the car. It is a 1990 Camaro RS i found it at a wrecker yard. I asked the owner about it and he said some one gave it to him, so he could give me a good deal. I was thinking yea $1500, because it was in decent shape and he said it ran! Then he said $500. WOW I had to sell my V-8 project blazer and i picked it up! I knew it had a rod knocking so no major deal right! WRONG! more later on that one! So one weekend i borrowed a motor hoist from a friend! and here is is!

 

I started the tear down in my little shed! It was a little cramped, but i made do. What i found when i pulle the manifold was SLUDGE! I think about 148K worth!

 

But then I found the cause of the knock! These 4 rod bearings rolled on top of each other on the rod side and gave it more storke to hit the head! So pistons #5 and #6 where knocking the head!

 

Here is what both heads looked like

 

I found out that the last two lobes on the crankshaft had a rather large "ridge" on them! So i am in need of a crank kit. , but i found a good deal i think!
http://www.larrysperformance.com/data/enginekits.html
Hopefully the link to it!

 

Where does all that sludge under the intake come from? I have a slight leak on the front intake manifold gasket, and I hope that the crap on your motor isn't waiting for me when I remove it.

 

I got most of it cleaned up (compared to what it was) and waiting machine work! Probably bored .30 over then head work!

 

Not sure if it is not changing the OIL or Wrong type of oil? Maybe a combination of both

 

It's probably just lack of changing the oil. Nice pics. Good luck on the rebuild. Synthetics won't do that either, so that engine definietly was run on real old dyno oil.

 

Its from not changing the oil, my dad brought a 307 from work home and explained it to me didnt look as bad tho.

 

i thought we cant bore out the cyclinder's on the 305 tbi blocks?

 

There is nothing different about the 305 tbi block than any other 305 block. It can be bored out a certain amount just like any other block.

 

sweet so whats the most then.

 

You wouldn't want to bore out the block "the most" in an attempt to gain power. You don't bore a block for power gains.

 

I just droped the block off at the machine shop! $185 bore and hone job. be done in a week! He said only gonna go what is needed on the boring!

 

so how much more power should i gain if my stock 305 tbi has 170 hp and i get it bored out .30 over.

 

The sludge..... that is from not changing the oil will also clog up the oil return holes leaving most of the oil at the top of the engine. The result.... heat. When I rebuilt mine(88 Formula) the heads looked the same way. Luckly the previous owner had some sence.. or maybe it was that he couldn't get it through emissions.... he asked me to rebuild it. I soon became attached and thought it looked better in my garage than his. It hasn't left since. It's not fast but they look good.

 

Man that's f-in sick!

Heres what mine looked like after 120k



Get that sumofabitch hot tanked and that crank needs some work on it. For mine the hot tank, hone, and balancing was a smidgen over $200 I think.

 

how come then people bore it out more and tbi 305 are 3.7inches and 305 tpi are 4.0 inches?

 

Every 305 has the same 3.740 inch bore and 3.480 inch stroke! A 4 inch bore with a 3.480 stroke is a 350. Like I said, there is nothing different about the 305 tbi block from any other 305 block, regardless of what type of induction it has.

 

then what does boring do?

 

give u more cubes pretty much, most of the time its better to have a higher bore then stroke with most engines.

SSBO

 

in your case the overbore (.030 over or whatever theyll do to it) will jsut generate a nice clean surface on teh cyl walls so the rings will have something nice to mate against instead of a scratched up cylinder wall. The cyl in the block themselves are actually steel sleeves that are cast into the block and as such the 305 and 350 are different castings. Other then adding another 100k of miles to the engines life expectancy i wouldnt expect to gain much more power from it. The power increase can be found in all the mods you are undoubtedly going to do to the engine before install

 

exactly, the only diff. between a 305 tbi and "most" other 305's is the heads (tbi has swirl ports, which aid in low end torque)

 

okay dont mean to hack your post but i cant find the post where willie(ithink its spelled that way)has the 305 block with 4-bolt mains.

 

here's my suggestion

have the block bored out the bare minimum, probably .030 because TBI doesn't produce much cylinder taper

have the heads reconditioned, with studs and guideplates if you're going to run any real lift. If you want, gasket match the ports and maybe open them up a little. A die-grinder and the abrassives kit from summit makes this really fun.

have the crank turned and get everything cleaned up, then use ARP bolts in the rods and mains, and have the whole rotating assembly shipped out to be balanced. I'd never spin up a stock bottom end beyond 5,000 - EVER. But i'm cautious.

Don't listen to the people that say "did you bore it out? there's a lot of power there" or other similarly insane things *not that anyone has yet*. The power a motor makes is largely in the top end. Your cam, heads, rockers, and to a limited extent, your pistons *compression* have the most influence. Gaining a few cubes from boring is cool - just don't try to punch the block out to a 4in' bore or something stupid like that - I'd draw the line at .040 over. .060 over if your block is trashed and you're realllllly low on funds for a new core.

Ty

 

Hello, been away for a while! been tring to make more money!
Got my block back today, and dropped the heads off!
Well not exactly what i wanted but it is done! BORED .040 over, i was hoping for just .030, but i guess it needed it! Now i need to take it to the shop and clean it up GOOD! The guy at the machine shop said he would look at getting me a kit togther for the rebuild! Well when i get some more pics i will post them!

 

Oh by the way what does .040 make it anyway?

 

312 cu in
could be wrong

 

You are wrong, .40 over would be 374 c.i. but of course there would be no cylinder walls left, .040 over would be 312 c.i. , sorry but as a machinist I hate when people leave off decimal places!!!

 

Hey guys it has been awhile, but i have finally paid off all my motor parts and assembled the long block! i was close to buying the transmission but a golf ball shattered the windsheild in my 2000 silverado and i now have another finacial responsibility! So hopefully soon i will pay the windsheild off and buy the transmission! i have pics of the long block but have not uploaded them from the camaera yet!
Got some questions
Got a Clevite cam part # 229-1916 156 says it is a replacement cam for 87-93 305 and 87-97 350, should i need to get a chip done for the car to run! oh and the motor is bored .040 over?
Will the car run right?
those are the only mods to the motor!
thanks for your help
Cant wait to get in it and finally drive it!
Ivon

 

I've got the 4-bolt main 305. It came in a VAN not a camaro. My engine had no sludge at 160,000 miles and still had cross hatch in the bores. I changed the oil pump and oil pump shaft as a precaution. No sludge in the pan either. That is when I notice that my 305 had 4-bolt mains no 2 bolt like everyone said it should. Only wish I had a picture of the 4-bolt mains. I should post the pic of my lifter valley when I pulled the engine apart.

Sludge comes from short trips(never letting the engine get hot enough to boil off moisture) and not changing the oil often enough.

 

You're not going to need a chip to make your motor run. It will run just fine. When I rebuilt my engine in January I had mine bored .030 over and it runs fine now. Although, a new chip couldn't hurt .

 

Summit/Jeg's have a pretty good selection of roller cams for your car. That is one of the best ways to make some good power, for sure. But be aware that if you have to go through emissions, then I wouldn't go too radical with the cam.
Did you have the block deck height checked? Usually the piston is about .025 down in the bore @TDC. If you have the block decked to like .010, then you can gain some compression, and have a nice true deck to install some thin hi performance head gaskets.
Felpro, I think makes a set that is like .038 as opposed to the stock .065
Boring the block may not help too much in the power, but more compression surely will.

 

.040 over gives you maybe 1-2 hp
The increase in compression will put you up to around 185hp. With no other mods included.
If you did the block decking (.010) and .038 gasket, you should be at around 10.5:1, and still be able to run regular octane, too

Just something to consider while you have the block out.
You will also want to check the gears in the oil pump to make sure they look okay. If they are worn at all, then go get a new one. Don't worry about getting a high volume oil pump unless you are changing to a deeper pan. (Not recommended for these cars, trust me).
There are a few other mods you can do to the block to help it with oil flow, if you are interested, I can email you some of the material I have been studying on the sbc.

 

my motor costed me 1100 bucks:

clean with freeze plugs - 100
deck blcok - 95
crank kit - 195
pistons - 80
rings - 70
bore - 275
shipping and fright - 35

and there is more but i can't think of it. damnit

what does decking the block actually do because i didn't ask for it he just decided to do it and charge me.

 

I've studied up a bit on the block building aspect of the sbc's, and I also remember a guy on a post pointing to a cool site that shows just about everything I am trying to say.
Lemme see if I can find it.
Here it is.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...power_squeeze/

What they don't say, is that in the center of the block deck area, the two center cylinders have a habit of dropping a little over time. Think of it as warpage, but it isn't really. So when you deck the block, it makes a nice even surface to compliment a thinner head gasket w/o any problems in that area.
You can also get away with higher CR's because of minimizing your quench area. (Again, I wish I had done all this to mine, instead of just tossing in the engine with new gaskets.) You know the old saying, do it right the first time.
So find out how much they decked the block height to. Normal block deck height is 9.025", i believe.
So , is this car going to have to run through emissions, or not?
If not, then you can get pretty radical with the cam and really make some power.

 

i don't need emissions here but i don't know all i would need.

 

Finally i got some time to sit and put the pic in!

 

Sweet Ivon. Now just get some ultra fine grit sand paper and wet sand the intake to make it real smooth and then polish it with some aluminum polish. I've even heard of high temp clear coat to protect the finish.
Check out mine. I just wish I'd have done all the other aluminum patrs when I had then engine out. Like the accsy brackets, and etc...

 

ok fellas had a day off of work finally and made some progress! her are some pics!

 

yea i know it looks kinda rough but i HAVE to get it semi put togther so i can move it! I am not totally happy with some of the stuff but i can go back and fix some of it later!
Had one Problem!
The torque converter would not fit the V-6 tranny so i used the converter from the V-6 hopefully it will be ok?

 

here she sits with the new motor in her!

 

all that effort and money when you could have built a 355 or 406

doesnt make sense to me, and i own a 310 (it was free)

 

BEACAUSE I WANTED TO KEEP IT MAINLY IN STOCK FORM THANK YOU!
Yea now i know i COULD have had a 355 or what ever! thanks!

 

Glad to see you keep a thirdgen on the road. I did mostly the same things you did with my rebuild. Good job!

 

Hey i think you got a good deal i would of took it. Keep us updated.

 

Ivon,

Good read, mate. I'm sure I'll be going down the same road as you one day soon. Oh, and I learned about sludge.

Cheers,

 

Well after a long wait and some money issues, she finally started today and made the loop today!
The first try the distributor was 180 out! So we put it in right and it fired right up!
I still need a couple of things but at least i know it will run!
i still need a radiator!
o2 sensors
i think a new oil pressure sending unit!
exhaust gaskets for the manifolds to y pipe
probably more just really excited right now!
She actually runs!
Still got a lot to do before i can drive her legally!
I will be sure to post some more pictures of her when i get her all cleaned up!
Anybody know why the tack would peg out? when i unhook the cluster it comes back to o but as soon as it starts it pegs?
Thanks alot to you guys for the support and help!

 

the pins in the back of the cluster are not in all the way. you will need to completely install the cluster with the nuts to keep it in place.