Here is the skinny....

R/T......................753
60 ft....................2.510
330ft...................6.960
1/8 mi..................10.630 @ 66.532
10000ft................13.700
1/4 mi...................16.488 @ 83.700


It's getting better. Last times I had were 17.1, and 17.6 prior to that. Just gotta keep tuning.

 

You could easily be into the 15's if you had anywhere near a descent 60 foot.

 

What do I need to do for a better 60'?

 

Depends on why your 60's are bad. Are you spinng really bad or just bogging? What gears and torque converter do you have?

 

No wheels spin. Stock t/c and 2.73's.

I think that pretty much describes the problem.

 

Where are you shifting?

 

Trying to shift right about at red line.

 

so 5k? try shifting later, with the bigger cam and heads, you should be making power up higher than that.

also, veryify your tachs accuracy by checking it to you dataloging, if i shifted mine at redline on the tach, i would be shifting at about 3250rpm. (yes our tachs go bad, and rather frequently.)

 

I too would shift higher. Heads and cammed LO3's can see 6000rpm with ease. Your gears are killing you but you are getting there. Keep tuning and good luck!

 

Congrats Bill....

I need to see what my 60' looked like the last time I ran the 16.9 for a comparison seeing as our cars have identical drivetrains with the exception of your engine mods.

 

while i had the UltraDyne in myc ar, 6200+ was the norm for going fast with that cam.

specs are not that much bigger than the l98, and i still had the swirl ports, and stock intake on. with heads, a good intake, and that cam, 6400 as a shift point IMHO is not all that out of the question. you really need to spin it up , and find out where the power trails off.

shifty is right, the gears are also killing you. especaily now that you can spin that motor up.

 

thats why.

the factory tach is OFF. bad.


when i remembered that it was off, i dropped (on my dead stock L03) from a 17.2 to a 16.2 a full second diff, just by reving it longer.....

also, your 60's suck. with traction, even a dead stock l03 can do a 2.0 60'

 

 

Whats the elevation at the track you run at?

Steve

 

Well I'm just guessing but I would say @ 1100ft.

 

that has nothing to do with it.


he can still hit the 15s with a stock l03 and 2.73s


while they're obviously not a performance gear, i do have a friend that ran a 11.9@114 with a 2.73 rear... gearing helps alot, but its not a end all thing.

 

I would invest in a set of 4.10's or atleast 3.73's and shift higher. If at all possible try to get it on a dyno to see exactly where you should shift. If you wanna go a little further a torque converter would help your 60's tremendously!

 

uhh, so you're reccomending 4.10s on a AUTO STREET CAR? o_O



i think the first thing he should do is get the car running correctly.

 

yes I am.

 

first thing it sounds like you need to do is get yoruself over to the DIY Prom board and start reading. you have added cam and rockers and still only runnign around the saem trap speeds as a stock tbi with bolt ons.
start by checking your base timing. with that cam and the rockers you shoudl be adding at least 8degrees to your base timing, i wouldn't be surprised if your base ran best at around 10degrees.
once you get teh car runnign right you shoudl be seeing trap speeds near teh mid 90's(i would say around 94-96mph is a good range to shoot for)
once you have the car tuned in and runnign right it is time to get soem gears to take advantage of teh power band. ideal gear selection will let you run teh car through the entire power band through every gear you use in teh 1/4 mile. once you break it down liek that i am sure you will be looking at a 4.10 gear and a good posi on your shopping list.
since you have an auto the next step will make a huge differenc eas long as you are still getting good traction, choose the right torque convertor. there are a few schools of thought on TC choice, the one that i generally follow is to choose a TC taht is supposed to hit at or near my peak torque. this allows the car to come off the line under max power output(peak torque) and use the hp band to run teh car teh rest of the way through the gear.
your engien is making enough power to go well into teh 13's once you get it tuned in and the chassis catches up to it.

later
tim

 

Hey NJ, long time no see or read. Hows things going with your prodjects you were working on the last time we were graced with your posts. No really, how is the 13-12 sec na 305 thirdgen doing?

Good to see you back if only for one post.

Steve

 

NJ,

I have been over to the DIY Prom board and read it several times. The problem is that I JUST DON'T GET IT!!!!!.

I do not by any stretch of the imagination consider myself dumb, but what to do and where to start just isn't sinking in. That is why I am sending my datalogs off to Brian at TBIChips and having him do it. I know this will take a while, but until the basic idea of how to do it sinks in, this is the best available alternative.

As far as the timing, I believe the base timing is set to zero. Now when you say that I should be adding 8* to 10* of timing, do you mean the chip should be doing it or that I should be adding it manually. With that in mind I will confess that I have never timed a car or even held a timing light im my hand in my life.

So some of this stuff is a bit of a challenge.

 

WELCOME BACK NJ SPEEDER!!

Sure did miss ya. :lala:

 

He means, advance your base timing at the distributor. If you have a timing light it's very easy to do. I would definitely give that a try; datalog after you advance it though and make sure you aren't getting knock counts.

 

thanks guys, the 91 is unfortunately gone. after 8years of constant abuse on drag strip/auto cross/open track event/ and daily driving the frame was tweaked enough to make it not really worth fixing.
i jsut picked up a new toy a week ago though, an all original 83 Z28. not tbi, but still a 305 taht i plan to run into teh 14's with jsut chassis and a few simple bolt ons.

as far as the timing thing, all you do is disconnect teh brown wire on teh pass side of teh engine compartment, loosen teh distributer clamp, and start slowly turning the distributer while lookin at teh timing marks. once you get to teh area you want tighten the clamp and reconnect teh wire and you are done.
for teh DIY prom stuff, jprevost showed me a cool program when he was home over teh winter, all you do is data log, then cut and paste the info into a excel file adn it will autocorrect all teh values. then you jsut cut and past teh new values into the prom burnign software and blamo!!! your new custom tune is ready to go.
i will talk to jon about getting copies of the software and explanations of how everthing works to post up for everyone.

later
tim

ps, there is still an excellant chance of me being a TBI owner again soon, i figure i need at least 2 cars so i have something to drive while i am working on my "fast" car. hehe, of course, i jsut happen to have ALL of my tbi stuff still, so it will be very hard to tell which one is supposed to be the "fast" car

 

Hey welcome back. Whats with the new screen name?

 

Hey NJ,

If you are willing to take the time to show me how to do it, I WILL FLY OUT TO NJ and meet up with you. How is that!! Just tell me when would be good for you. And what equipment I need to bring.

I would like to learn it but I've alway been better at learning while I do than reading a book. Gets hammered into my hard head better. Just one of my down falls.

Let me know. If you got the time, I'll catch the flight.

 

I would REALLY like to get my hands on that program. I have money.


Yep, it's Tim alright.

 

az, not to put nj down or anything but I think you need to seek out someone like JonP or RBob. I would really like to see one of the DIY ECM guru's have a beginners course that we could attend. I think the hardest thing to comprehend is just where to start and how to read the data that we log. I have a problem when it comes to just knowing what to do when someone says go to hex # this or source code that add patch here lock blms there, you know the simple stuff everone talks about. If someone was willing to hold a bigginers course I would enroll tomarrow.

Steve

 

Jon put his program up on the boards here, I think its still posted on the diy-efi board. It's named aldltobin; you datalog and save the BLM table to a file then open a command prompt run the program and name the .bin file and blm file and it kicks out a fresh bin file with the main VE table modified to the datalog.

If somebody needs the file I could email it to them i have it saved.

Good to see you back around here NJ, I hope your stick around this time and make some posts, its good to see a good number of experienced TBIers posting replies instead of just a few guys every post.

 

Does this program take the place of ALDL, or does it simply compliment ALDL and makes tuning the date easier?

I too am a programming idiot.

 

No. You log data with Winaldl and save the datalog of the BLM's to a file. You then plug your saved BLM file and your .BIN file into the program and it makes a new bin file with the updated Fuel table based off the BLM file.

 

What is a .BIN file? Is that the program that the car's computer is already using?

 

What is a BLM file?

 

Yes, the bin file is the programming loaded into the prom in your car. It's what has all the fueling tables and everything else to run the car.

A blm file is when you datalog with winaldl you can save your logged blm table, the blm file is what you get when you save that. You'll see when you do a datalog.

 

Yes, I have seen the blm file when I do some data logging. Doesn't this have something to do with fuel delivery.

I have seen the values of 128 which from what I have read is pretty normal. I have also seen my car log a value of 108, which I think someone said was extremely rich.

 

Yeah 128 is perfect AFR under 128 and you're rich over 128 and its lean. The program makes fueling changes based off of the BLM readings.

 

So the program would see that I am rich and burn a chip that will try to bring me back the 128 in the BLM file?

 

Yes. It won't actually burn the chip but it will make the new bin that you need a programmer to burn it onto the prom then. When my engine goes in, I plan to use this. Just datalog make a new bin with it then datalog with the new one and use the program again. Keep doing logs and using the program and you'll get a good tune, it'll cut the time for working out the VE table down a lot.

 

So I would take the datalogged BLM file and use the program to create a new BIN file. Then the new BIN file would get burned into a new chip.

Is that about right?

 

correct....and you really should play with your base timing manually, i think that will make your car run so much better, there is a tech article, go check it out.

 

I will vj, thanks.

 

Where can I find this program?

 

I found a thread with a guy posting a link to it here: Aldltobin

 

i pulled a 2.301 60' with nothing more than an open element and a edelbrock cat back