What do you guys use to cap of the T fitting down below ??

I had nothing laying around so I had to reconnect a piece of the hose and plug it with a huge screw, for now.

 

i used a fan switch that i had layin around worked perfect.lol........ for now.

on another note i did this today and everything seems ok but, u just connect the two hoses(the one that goes to the heater core on the fire wall and the one that goes to the manifold, next to the dizzy) together ,and then plug the hose that runs along the frame rail? just makin shure dont want to have antifreeze going were it isnt soppose to go.

 

For now, I simply remove the heater control valve, and connected the two hoses together right over the valve cover, using a piece of tubing.

It seems however, like the car heats up a lot quicker than before. COULD be that I lost a lot of anti freeze when the valve broke and I simply refilled with water, but shouldn't water handle dissipating the heat better anyway ?

 

I first purchased some rubber caps and clamped them on the fitting with regular hose clamps and it looked clean but every one developed a leak for some reason so I ended up doing as you did with a plug and short piece of hose. It still looks far better than the stock GM mess.

 

Vorgath dude you should just call me ***. I did the the whole thing already. Later dude

 

*LOL* Yeah know ya did, but now which one of us has a fiberglass Z28 hood waiting to be put on the car, u or me hehehehe ya take it easy buckaroo

 

Dude I know I am jealous!! I will help you put it on when i get home.

Bill

 

I may have even more parts coming real soon

 

Like what?

 

OK, ran into two problems today.

1) Decided to ditch the hose with a screw in it, which was used to plug the T-fitting by the frame. Used a 3/8 plug, it went in alright, with thread sealer, took it around the block, looked, yep it's squirting water. So tomorrow I'll try ANOTHER 3/8, because one of them is 3/8 pipe thread the other one is something else.


2) Decided to cut the hoses closer to the firewall, that was a slight mistake. I couldn't get the copper 90 degree bend tubing to go inside the hoses, deep enough.

Any tricks to get tubes/piping inside hoses ? Lubrication of some kind hmmm heating the hose with something .. any advice ?

 

I always use some white lithium grease...........it also helps when getting the part off also.

 

I'll try that, I think part of the problem may be the copper bend having a bead on both ends.

 

Tried a different plug on the T-fitting, teflon tape and well .. it still leaks a tiny bit, so I guess I'll go back to using a hose and plug the hose instead.

 

Yo dewey, where did you get your delete box??? I thought only 1 person made them??? Also because I dont want to keep running back and forth between the auto parts store and my house, what could I use to plug up the frame rail line at the t spot. Looks like you used something that pushed into there??? Should I use a petcock or something like that???

 

The delete box is a factory one, I just cleaned it up, and painted it. Just keep an eye out in the classifieds, and teh junk yard. The yard charged me like $5 for it. You also need to get a non-ac blower motor.

It is just a rubber plug. At any parts store, just go thier fittings section, I grabbed a handful of plugs in diffrence sizes, then found the one that fit, and hose clamped it. I have not had a single problem.

--John

 

Thanks for letting me know. I am not sure I want to pay $150 for American Graffitti's one. Yeah theirs are $130 and $20 shipping, but are fiberglass and come with complete kit, ready to go. I am going to e-mail them now and find out if thats true.

 

i know this thread is way old, but does anyone know what you are suppose to do with the vacuum line that runs to the top of the heater valve after you take off everything else?

 

put a screw into it.
Do you have AC?
On my 90RS I did the heater valve and AC delete...
after that i replaced the HVAC controls with heater only controls from a non AC car (look on ebay)
The original heater controls were vacuum operated while the non AC controls were lever operated. I was able to complete remove the vacuum port/tap at the back of the intake manifold and all the vacuum lines that were connected to it (heater valve and HVAC controls).
The only negative was that my heat only came from the defroster because I did not have a lever to control where the heat is routed but that did not bother me. I was still able to switch between cool air and hot air and everywhere in between.

 

that's what i figured, i have ac though, so will this still be an ok method to use?

 

yeah, just plug it up with something and zip tie it out of the way....
I just typed all that other stuff in case you were trying to strip your car down and get rid of some hoses/wires/vacuum lines/etc

 

oh ok awesome. thank for replying so quick, i'm gonna go finish it all up.

 

old thread, but still feel like making a comment on that thread.

imho that's exactly the point why we have that heater valve. even with that flapper in place to divert air away (HVAC cold setting) or right through the interior heater matrix (HVAC hot setting).. the heater matrix will always get hot coolant, warming up the interior, when the heater valve is removed.

just wondering what a rebuild to the heater box would do for that issue..?

 

OK read it all. I would like to clean up my engine bay too. I want 2 hoses to the fire wall and one of them to the engine and the other the rad. I still want my a/c but am **** canning the air pump. There's a valve looking thing and a square plastic box I want gone. That whole hoseing system is very confusing. Thanks

 

Okay. It's 2022 and I have deleted the diverter valve, rerouting the firewall hoses at the firewall property. I also removed the hideous smog? related plastic eyesore that was in the way.
I've spent hours on here and youtube trying to find what to do with the two electrical plugs that were under the plastic box.

Do I hide them in the loom as they are, connect them together, or what?
Its the only part Im unsure of.
I'm stumped as to their purpose and could do with some help...
Not sure how this forum works, and the last post on this thread was 2012. So I'm unsure if my question will be seen...Anyways I will try and attach a picture

 

If you don't know what stuff is or what it does...


...maybe you shouldn't mess with it.

 

Well, seeing you know nothing about me or my mechanical and/orauto electrical capabilities, I'll rise above your needing to feel important and ask, can you help me find a safe location to stow the plugs/wires in my question or not?
This forum is here to share and help one another out with our third gens. Your condescending remarks are not welcome.
Kindly, either provide 'said' help, or move along...

 

trace the wires back and cut and tape. There is no reason to run coolant through the heater core when you do not want heat. The easiest way to handle that is to get a couple of ball valves from the hard ware store and close them when heat is not wanted. Or get one of the old style mechanical diverter valves for like a 65 Impala or such and buy a choke cable to open and close it.

 

trace the wires back and cut and tape. There is no reason to run coolant through the heater core when you do not want heat. The easiest way to handle that is to get a couple of ball valves from the hard ware store and close them when heat is not wanted. Or get one of the old style mechanical diverter valves for like a 65 Impala or such and buy a choke cable to open and close it.

 

You never use the defroster?

 

mmadden55
Dude. Thanks, man. This answer was all that was needed. The plugs I will graft into the loom as the car is nice so I want to keep the original gear that it came with it so it can be put back to original someday if need be.
The heater valve was bypassed for two days. Its the height of summer down here, and the heat interferred with my A/C too much. So I refitted the diverter valve but relocated it closer to the inner fender well, routing it around and under the drier (for now). It is out of the way and looks okay. I have my ice cold air back, which is great! Thanks again for your help.
Shurkey, That wasn't too hard to do was it?

Makes me wonder if you even knew...I guess

 

So how did you end up doing it?

 

Your post shows up on my screen as white text on light-cream background. It's entirely unreadable.

 

"mmadden55
Dude. Thanks, man. This answer was all that was needed. The plugs I will graft into the loom as the car is nice so I want to keep the original gear that it came with it so it can be put back to original someday if need be.
The heater valve was bypassed for two days. Its the height of summer down here, and the heat interferred with my A/C too much. So I refitted the diverter valve but relocated it closer to the inner fender well, routing it around and under the drier (for now). It is out of the way and looks okay. I have my ice cold air back, which is great! Thanks again for your help.
Shurkey, That wasn't too hard to do was it?

Makes me wonder if you even knew...I guess"

 

Hi Folks- I noticed recently the carpet was damp on the passenger side of my '87 V6 Sport Coupe. I mopped it up and went on my way, only for it to appear again, after some analysis I concluded it was engine coolant from a expired heater core. Being a Florida transplant for many decades, I had this issue before (on a Mercury) , instead of hours of disassembly/ reassemble to replace the core, I simply routed the heater hoses and bypassed the core. (Rarely miss the 2 times a year I would run the heater, and I have fully functional AC which will defog the window in a pinch) . I've been reading the thread, and can't visualize how it applies to my vehicle. (I also have a Haynes manual and of course it doesn't have a plumbing diagram) If you look at the (attached) pic of my heater plumbing, it appears the most simple way to bypass the core would be to remove the heater valve (black object w/ radiator clamps all over it) , take the hose in the foreground (its from the water pump, you can see the 90 degree bend towards the rear) and route it to the pipe to the right of the heater valve (that the heater valve is connected to now)? Am I over simplifying this ?

 

If this were me--and it isn't, because I'd FIX the car instead of bypassing the heater core--I'd NOT connect the heater supply and return hoses together allowing unrestricted flow through the supply/return hoses. I'd cap-off both so that there was no flow at all.

A less-invasive method would be to connect the heater return hose to the outlet of the heater control valve, and then assure that the valve was disabled in a way that kept it closed. Depending on the valve, this might involve removing the vacuum hose to it; on other valves you'd need to supply constant vacuum. Valves are made "both ways", normally-open and normally-closed depending on application, and I don't know which way yours is.