sunset92

wow this thing is driving me nuts!!!
i can't even get it to work at all now!!! it won't start.
also it is dumping fuel out from under both the gasket for the adapter and the tbi unit.
it won't turn over or anything!!! i have been working on this since friday. i had it running but it was idling way tooooo high and now it won't even start! i am just about ready to put the edlebrock back on there i have adjusted the fp from 10 all the way to 15 and it still doesn't matter i have adjusted the tps around and thae iac and nothing works it just goes ggggggggggggg puh ggggggggggggggg puh and then the gas soaks out froim the gaskets wtf???
so much for bolt on applications. also did yall hook up the map sensor to the port on the back next to the fuel in and outs? on my old tbi unit i think it was hooked to the intake manifold and not the tbi unit. also what should that other sensor be hooked to the one with to hoses coming off of it, it sits back toward the fire wall on the passenger side, it show on the little blueprints ported vac and full vac should i hook up something to those or just leave them plugged?
i appreciate any help yall can offer!!!

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Turn the fuel pressure down for starters. Go back to 10. It sounds like its already getting too much fuel if its flooding out the bores. Its probably flooded out by now. Take the connectors off the injectors and while pressing the gas pedal to the floor crank the motor over. The computer will engage clear flood at WOT anyway but probably no fuel at all is best. The engine may rev up quite a bit before it burns off all the fuel so be ready to let off the gas. If it doesnt start then repeat the above process three or four times, cranking the motor for no longer then 20 secs. Afterwards, hook it all back up and try to start the car again.

sunset92

thanks but i tried that all ready!!! but why would it seep out of the gaskets? when i had it running earlier today it had bno vac leak at those gaskets??? oh well!!!

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

See if the bores are filling up with gas while your cranking the motor. It could be that the gas is spilling out from between the tbi casting and the throttle shaft

sunset92

well... i threw out the retarded holley gasket and bought one from mr gasket and walla!!! no more fuel or vac leak!!! it still idles like crap though!!! i got the timing set at 4* and i thought the tps was set at .56v but it is throwing a code 22 so maybe i need to redo it??? also it is still getting hung or something because it won't drop below 1000 rpm unless i push on the throttle while under the hood...
fp is at 13 psi, idle is very erratic it bounces even when accellerating until i hit about 3 grand then the rpm's are smooth???
also i could tell no diff when i unpluged the iac valve and tried to set the idle the iac does not seem to be doing anything??? well does anyone have anymore suggestions? i am going to call holley tommorow and see how little help they can offer.
also the tps adjustment article wasn't too clear so i jumped all 3 wires a to a b to b and c to c then i put the pos on the b and the neg on the a. was this correct? also if it thre a code 22 before i set the tps should i unplug the battery and reset the ecm once more so the tps will be ok??? oor does the computer know when it has been adjusted?

sunset92

testing 1 2 3

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like the throttle may have been hung up when you set the tps. The wear around the throttle shaft allows the butterflies to sit off-center in the bores and they hang up and cause the throttle to stick open. Close the throttle by hand and make sure its completly closed and then set the tps. Like you said below, reset the ecm first and then reset the TPS and see if the code returns.

Quote:

fp is at 13 psi, idle is very erratic it bounces even when accellerating until i hit about 3 grand then the rpm's are smooth???

That could be alot of things. Maybe an ignition problem or the fueling is way off.




Like I said above it sounds like the throttle is sticking. Check to make sure the linkages move freely. Most of the time, though, its from excessive wear around the throttle shaft. The idle is non-adjustable. The only control you have is over the base idle speed, and that has to be less then the stock idle speed set in the calibration or the ecm wont have any control over the idle. Set the base idle speed to around 450 RPM or so.

sunset92

it won't idle that low... it like the lowest it will idle is 1000...
also the ****** at holley woul;d not even answer their freakin phones!!!!!!1 i am going to complain tommorow!!!!!!!!!!!1
i just got off work and got home at 545 my time which is 445 theirs!!!! ****** the voice mail picked up and said all tech are buisy we will be with you shortly and then it holds for a few mins then transfers and noone picks up!!! then the phone hangs up!!!! what a load of crap!!

wellit's still idleing funny when i put the clutch in the rpm's go way up and stay then they slowly go down to 1500 and sit there... well any more tips?

90tbi305

Does your car still have a/c? You now those two black little hoeses that you were talking about (they look like the hose that would go into a boost gauge) they come out of the small wire harness right? Ok the one to the top controlles the a/c ( the flaps that open inside the a/c box), the one to the bottem i forgot what it does , but plug that one up. The top hose should be connected to this vacum fitting that is coming out of the manifold in back of the tbi system. When you connect it you should go to your nerest parts store and get a one way valve put it in the middle of the hose that goes from that fitting that i was talking about from your manifold to the little black hose. Start on your car and see what it does, If it still is acting weard switch the hoses ,see what it boes now.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Id start testing for additional vac leaks if you still cant get it to go below a 1000 rpm no matter what, even after youve backed the min air screw all the way out. It should be around 600 rpm or so. Try removing all but the hose that leads to the map and plug the rest. Then go around the manifold with starter fluid and see if you can find a leak. Also, with the engine off, key to the on position, short pins A + B in the ALDL connector and unplug the IAC. Itll take the computer out of the equation.

As for the holley guys, they take some time but if you e-mail them, they eventaully e-mail you back. I never tried calling them. Given the ammount of time they took to respond to email I would ahve been old and grey by the time they gave me a call back.

sunset92

well i shorted the a and b and the i ac came all the way out then i unplugged it and left it unpluggrd... then i tried to crank it and it would not so i bumped the idle up and then cranked it and i suppose i can re adjust the tps for the fifth time but should i leave the iac unpluggted??? because when i plug it in it idles bad??? also what are the 2 hoses coming out of the little sensor right beside the distributer? should i unplug these? oh and also i no longer have the temp sending unit and it's throwing an error code 15 can i put a resistor in there to trick the computer???

sunset92

well its definatly the iac!!! i put in the aldl pins and the pintle came all the way out then i unplugged it and walla the idle was way low so i reset the tps and drove it the idle was still screwy but the thing's rpms did keep going up after i let off the gas... i pluggeds the iac back in and it started the problem again. its like the iac is backwards or something. also my ac is not hooked up even though it needs to be and you say the check valve goes between the ac and the tb. also the map is connected to the back port on the tbi unit and the brake cylinder is connected to the intake manifold were the map sensor used to be connected. the holley guys said to do it this way. should i route my map around to the front also it has 2 full vac and 1 ported vac on the front besides the pcv port which hoses go were on this side? keep in mind i have no smogh pump.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

The car needs to be shut down after the IAC is plugged back in since the computer will need to recalibrate. The point of really unplugging it is to set the min idle and also to make sure the computer wont adjust the idle while your checking something.

The map should be on its own vacuum port. Defintatly with nothing else as other accessories will generate vacuum fluctuations.

As for the tps, just make sure its around .55 volts or so and forget about it. The exact value isnt too important. The only thing that is important is that the tps voltage isnt real low or high.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Think we found your problem. You MUST have a CTS. The temperature is very important as far as fueling goes. Thats why you had all that fuel spilling out. The ecm registered an extremely cold temp since the resistance of an open circuit is infinity. Do whatever you ahve to do to install a cts. Move stuff around, drill and tap another hole in the intake, or whatever else it takes.

sunset92

well the fuel problem was fixed with the vaccumn leak it was weeping out of the gaskets!! it's not leaking now, i'll try to set the iac then turn off the car and see what happens when i plug it back in... i think its wired backwards, i used the plug from my car... the one i got at the junk yard looked identical i guess i can put a resistor in there until i can get a sensor with a connector, that still wouldn't cause the funky idle would it? i'll go try the iac again

90tbi305

Leave the map were it is at, dont go on a mission rerouting the map. The brake booster line , connect it were the vacume goes in the back of the tbi on the manifold. Try to get a T and connect the master cilinder to it, the other one to that black line i was talking about if you still have a/c. With out it your a/c wont throw out air. It can also be the iac, just go buy a new one its about $11.00 at the parts store. Dont bust a mission trying to see if it works or not. You should probley change it any ways.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

As far as the MAP goes, the only thing that matters is that it must be on its own vacuum port on the tbi.

As far as the CTS. If you really have to use the car, then put a 680 ohm resister in place of the cts for the time being. The car will be lean and hard to start when cold and run rich when hot, but itll keep the ecm out of closed loop, which is something you dont want right away when you first start the car.

sunset92

ok but what are the other two vac hoses for the ones that go to that little thing beside the distributor? it looks like some kind of sensor???

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

That should be the one-way vacuum valve. I think one goes to the HVAC head and another hose goes off to the vacuum accumulator under the battery tray on the drivers side.

sunset92

well i thought the idle was fixed but its not... oh well i also put about 500 ohms of resistance i did not have a 680, now that i seem to have gotten some of the problems fixed it seems to not have as much power now???,,,...

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

The power and economy will suffer untill you get a CTS hooked up.