Hello guys. My first post. I've been learning a lot from these boards about my car. Okay here it is. I have a 1990 RS convertible. 5 Speed, TBI V-8 305. It had 217,000 miles on it when i pulled the engine out to have it rebuilt with flat top pistons, a vortec roller cam, and Edelbrock Headers. Now I am having the worst problems with Code 32 and 43. All the parts of said codes have been replaced figuring its all got 217,000 on it. No luck on either codes. I need help. I have the aftermarket EGR valve. Which i hear could be the culprit of 32. Now im not totally sure that the Solenoid is hooked up correctly. Could it be that the vacumm lines are hooked up backwards. And the ESC I need help. The engine was also bored out 30 over. Would this cause The frequency to change enough for the knock sensor to not see it. Well thanks. Ill check tomorrow.

 

i`m not an expert , but with all that you have gotten done to your car you should really get into prom tuning.just look on the diy-prom boards and you might find what you`re looking for.

 

what are the specs on the cam, also have you done the ultimate tbi mods found in the tech articles? you can increase the fp for one, also you will here about burning a chip too. i am not sure about the egr since i threw mine out...??? but my ecu doesn't throw the egr code because if i remember right the lt1 cam has some overlap that has an egr effect?

 

cam overlap doesn't do much for egr after idle, the ecm looks for a change in MAP pressure when it camands the egr to come on. If it doesn't see it then it flips the code. There was some good info posted a while back about some EGR valves that need exhaust back pressure to open, and there was a truck valve that fixed this problem, try searching. The est code might be set because your failing the forced knock test. The ecm advances the timing till it sees knock to make sure everything is working correctly. If your timing is not set right or your knock sensor is dodo you'll get this code. Check your timing, then the sensor, if all checks out then maybe try dialing in a deg or two at the dissy to help it pass the knock test.

 

It's possible. There should be a vacuum diagram sticker on your hood, but just in case it's missing:

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d8016381c.gif

Your probably also getting a code 32 because of the reduced backpressure of the headers. Sometimes those "universal" EGR valves can cause problems, I certainly don't trust them, but I wouldn't worry about that yet. A negative backpressure EGR valve will help, but the funny thing is that some 305 TBI car's got negative backpressure EGR valves stock, while some got positive backpressure EGR valves stock. Are you disconnecting the battery when you replace the parts?

I think BMmonteSS pretty much hit the nail on the head with the code 43 problem. Check your timing. And, just boring the cylinders .030" over should not cause a noticable difference in knock. My rebuilt motor is .030" over and my knock counts are the same as they were before I rebuilt it.

And, just like robertfrank, you do need a custom PROM, bad. The stock PROM can barely handle the stock motor, let alone cam and exhaust mods.

 

All the suggestions helped out a bunch. I think it may be the timing. I bumped it up 4 degrees and it helped. So i changed it to 8 degrees and we will see about the code in the traffic on the 91 freeway here in cali. And yes im looking into finding a prom. Thanks again.