1990 TBI RS Camaro wont start - help
1990 TBI RS Camaro wont start - help
I work at an auto body shop and about 2 months ago a 1990 TBI RS Camaro came in for a lot of body work (it was a high school kids car prior to the current owner and the prior owner fed it up) for the first month and half it ran great whenever we had to move it (which was 2 or 3 times a day on average). Then we let it set for 2 or 3 days and it wouldn’t start. So we replaced the coil and it still wouldn’t start then we replaced the dist module cap rotor spark plugs and wires and it still won’t start. The battery is new as well.
There is a dash light that caught my eye it is light up and I believe if I remember correctly it says "INFL RESET"
If anybody has any idea what this light is or any thoughts as to why the car has no spark and won’t start please let me know
There is a dash light that caught my eye it is light up and I believe if I remember correctly it says "INFL RESET"
If anybody has any idea what this light is or any thoughts as to why the car has no spark and won’t start please let me know
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 1
From: Greenville, SC
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The light you're seeing, the red "INFL REST" light, is the inflatable restraint light, also known as the airbag. When you turn the key on to accessories, or start the car, it should flash between 7-9 times, and then stop. If it does not stop flashing, than something is wrong in the SIR system.
Just to clarify, I'm assuming that the engine is cranking over, but is not catching and starting, correct? And there is no spark. Is fuel coming out of the injectors when you're cranking it? Make sure that your getting fuel into the engine, too. I would personally double-check everything under the hood. Check all the fuses (don't forget the one next to the battery on the passenger side inner fender area), check all the fusible links near the starter, make sure all the electrical connectors are tight (especially on the coil, I've had that problem), check the voltage on the battery, should be around 12.6V, check for disconnect vacuum lines, etc., etc. It's always the stupid little things that get to you.
My first thought was a bad ignition control module, but you've already replaced that. But, did you happen to test the pick-up coil while you had the cap, rotor, and ICM off of the distributor?
Just to clarify, I'm assuming that the engine is cranking over, but is not catching and starting, correct? And there is no spark. Is fuel coming out of the injectors when you're cranking it? Make sure that your getting fuel into the engine, too. I would personally double-check everything under the hood. Check all the fuses (don't forget the one next to the battery on the passenger side inner fender area), check all the fusible links near the starter, make sure all the electrical connectors are tight (especially on the coil, I've had that problem), check the voltage on the battery, should be around 12.6V, check for disconnect vacuum lines, etc., etc. It's always the stupid little things that get to you.
My first thought was a bad ignition control module, but you've already replaced that. But, did you happen to test the pick-up coil while you had the cap, rotor, and ICM off of the distributor?
Huh so that’s what that light is the dealerships didn’t even know that. I guess ill have to whip out the snap-on computer and reset the airbags.
The engine cranks but wont start there is fuel getting to the engine I tested for power going to the coil and there is none; so I guess I’m going to be checking fuses and fusible links when I have time.
The engine cranks but wont start there is fuel getting to the engine I tested for power going to the coil and there is none; so I guess I’m going to be checking fuses and fusible links when I have time.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
I see you said you replaced the dizzy module?, do you mean the ingniton control module? That thing crapped out on my car and gave all the same symtoms you speak of. $30 from autozone, and I was back on the road...
Bruce (90RS305)
Bruce (90RS305)
Originally posted by 90RS305
I see you said you replaced the dizzy module?, do you mean the ingniton control module? That thing crapped out on my car and gave all the same symtoms you speak of. $30 from autozone, and I was back on the road...
Bruce (90RS305)
I see you said you replaced the dizzy module?, do you mean the ingniton control module? That thing crapped out on my car and gave all the same symtoms you speak of. $30 from autozone, and I was back on the road...
Bruce (90RS305)
because i dont know what a dizzy module is.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
lol, I'm sorry, you said a distributor (dizzy) module, thats what I was talking about. It's the little U shaped harness that 2 wires plug into (one leading to the coil)
ok i am confused are you talking about a pickup module?
if you could get pics of the different modules that would help me a lot (this isnt my car iv never realy worked on one of these cars b4)
oh and i made a mistake its a 1991
if you could get pics of the different modules that would help me a lot (this isnt my car iv never realy worked on one of these cars b4)
oh and i made a mistake its a 1991
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Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 1
From: Greenville, SC
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
He was referring to the ignition control module, which is what I am pretty sure you've replaced (the "dizzy module", as it was called earlier).
The pick-up coil is also located inside the distributor, but it cannot be replaced without taking the distributor out of the engine. It's round and has a 2-wire connector on it.
Here's what an ignition control module looks like:

Here's what a pick-up coil/stator looks like:
The pick-up coil is also located inside the distributor, but it cannot be replaced without taking the distributor out of the engine. It's round and has a 2-wire connector on it.
Here's what an ignition control module looks like:

Here's what a pick-up coil/stator looks like:
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Check the fuseable links next to the battery. I had some work done at a shop once and they blew the fuseable links. It wouldn't start, no click, nothing.
Lon
Lon
thanks Benm109 the pics really helped.
i already replaced the ignition control module.
i am going to be replacing the pick-up coil/stator as soon as i get time.
i hope that will be the end of that.
is there any specific point on the dist cap that the #1 plug wire must go . just incase i have any probs.
thank again everybody.
im slowly learning about the workings of these engines and it is confusing. im used to the good old carb cars.
i already replaced the ignition control module.
i am going to be replacing the pick-up coil/stator as soon as i get time.
i hope that will be the end of that.
is there any specific point on the dist cap that the #1 plug wire must go . just incase i have any probs.
thank again everybody.
im slowly learning about the workings of these engines and it is confusing. im used to the good old carb cars.
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,001
Likes: 62
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
check the battery terminals.if they are even just a bit loose the car might not start.also check to see if they are corroded at all.
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,001
Likes: 62
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
ok it cranks but it won`t start,have you tried checking the fuel injectors?fuel filter?to me without being there to hear what it sounds like it sounds to me to be fuel related.when you turn the key over to the on position do you hear the fuel pump kick on?if not check your fuses or the fuel relay.i`m not trying to steer you in the wrong direction just tring to point out a few other things not mentioned yet.
well i pulled the dist. today and was going to fix it when i found that part of its internals were cracked so i got a new one and i have spark
i made a small mistake that i didnt have time to fix today.
i accidently installed the dist 180degrees off so it wouldnt start but i will pull it back out and switch it around and it will work then i hope.
ill let you know tomarrow if it runs
i made a small mistake that i didnt have time to fix today.
i accidently installed the dist 180degrees off so it wouldnt start but i will pull it back out and switch it around and it will work then i hope.
ill let you know tomarrow if it runs
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Glad we could help! Let us know if you ever get a thirdgen back in your shop!
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