ok so it looks like this weekends the week im thorwing in the LT1 cam, anyways a few nights ago i was going down the highway at WOT my rpms where sitting at 5,500 to 6,200 rpms and the camaro would just sit there not move well i incusred speed (120mph) never shiffted (the O.D 700r4's have 3 gears right?) well anyway i was just sitting there, the hole point anyway is the car sits to high in its rpms for what its pushing,
1st, right on the mark 5,000rpms 2nd 5,500, then 3rd i got off of it, it was up in the 6,200 range also felt the drive shaft shimmy, so anyway im just going to throw out ideas right now, but before i do, im thinking of chip burning now to get my rpms shift points where i need them so basicy i want the lt1 cam matched for the 305 tbi with stock stall, dial it in for the perfected shift points and whatever those would be, ok now to my ideas,
i have 083 casting heads, and being thinking of adding spray to the Camaro and a different intake and be done for the summer, but then my questions for that are this the 350 tpi heads what comp ratio would i have? and could i run a 150 shoot and not see my motor waving a rod at me out the block? dry or wet?
anyway just some ideas im more likely going to do during the summer

 

Ok, first of all, Prom tuning has nothing to do with shift points. The 700R4 is not electronically controlled. The only thing you can change in the PROM is the torque converter lockup. A 700R4 will not shift into 4th gear (OD) at WOT that is probably why you were seeing such high RPM.

If you're not already into PROM tuning you're going to have a hell of a time with that LT1 cam, even more so if you put those heads on it. Personally, I wouldn't use 083's on a 305 there's just no point. You can pick up 081's for next to nothing and not lose your compression. 083's have 64cc chambers. I suppose the drop in compression might be ok for an all-spray motor like you're talking, but I'd never throw a 150 shot on a stock bottom end unless I was trying to get rid of it. But that's just me, maybe i'm more conservative than others.

 

Bron nailed it on the head. Get familiar with chip work before you try to tune a heads and cammed set-up. Your car only goes 112 as it sits right now anyways and at 6000+ rpm you are exceeding the limites of the stock heads, cam, valvetrain, and tune.

 

Thats my flut for lsing to someone on tgo agine about the shift points, anyways cant you buy some kinda gear or flooter thing that can change your rpms, i dont see what the big deal is about the 10 less cc's wit the right gasket i should be 9:5 to 1 just ruff estament, between 50 to 150 i think would be ok, as for tuneing im not going to do anytrhing ther but see if someone can buy me a chip dont feel like spending anymore money beside i got the the heads and cam already and tuneing can be done anyday out of the week i just dont have the time to swap parts...

and i think thats what im going with on the 305, mine
rebuilt 083s,
lt1 cam,
better intake,
and
nos,
thats just my plan regrardless....

 

Ask the right people on TGO and you'll get the right answers. As for not tuning, you're going to be in a world of hurt with that combo on a stock chip or off the shelf aftermarket chip.

This is not like a theoretical opinion, it WILL run like crap. Just look at how Azvolfan's and Chuck!'s cars ran before they did any tuning, they were slower. I personally know a guy that did a smaller L98 cam with stock heads and it ran horrible, so much so, that he didn't even drive it, he used an alternate car. I hope that's sign enough for you to start tuning.

 

TPI heads+ L98 cam+ Hooker Super comps+ 3" inch cat+ borla cat back+ stock tune=17.7 1/4 mile

TPI heads+ L98 cam+ Hooker Super comps+ 3" inch cat+ borla cat back+ 68# injectors+ custom tune=15.5 1/4 mile on weak fuel pump.

No times yet on the new fuel pump. I also have another chip to put in with a few small edits to the fuel curve.

Absolutely incredible the difference chip tuning made. And there is more to go.

 

I think you are setting yourself up for dissapointment. A 64cc head will drop compression noticably and you won't be anywhere near 9.5:1 even with a .015 head gasket. The L98 heads don't flow that well in stock form (see Kdrolts posts on TBI vs TPI heads) and you don't want your compression ratio to be at 8.X:1. Your car will be a stumbling undrivable mess with all these mods and no chip work. You cannot mial order a chip or buy any off the shelf chip. Doing it yourself is the only way to make your combo run right. You can't patch a TBI set-up together and skip important steps.

EDIT: Bron and Zol beat me to it

 

ok so looks like the heads are out, i have a rebuilt set just taking up space and dust thot might as well slap them on, but i really want to do the LT1 cam this weekend its my only shot till the next weekend and so on, so anyways that and a new intake well be going on this weekend it looks like besides that i know there are others on the board with similar combos, ever tbi motor verys from car to car truck to truck, but if someone could burn something to keep me happy till i buy the stuff to do the tuning my self that be awesome, and then I'll need help matching my shift points, with different weights and springs, unfortunately looks like all have to experiment to figure out the shift points with that said again if anyone's play in this area and could help me awsome! besides that, i dont know what else to do besides thorw this high winning beast on a bottle,

so far this is the run down of what i got

headers, 3" y-pipe back all manal bent tubeing
runing a 80's flowmaster,

played with the drimle on the TB and have a AFR

700r4 with stage 2 shift kit,

lmao, no clue on the reared at ALL there's some nice videos of me doing burn outs and taking off, and going around conners and it shows it being a 2 wheeln rubber machine but then jack it up turn the wheel and only one spines and try to get the ratio tire to drive shafts says its a 1.5 :silly:

so from here on all be adding

 

You will control your shift points by manually shifting. That way you can have full control over your car.

Can you put some punctuation in your next post please?

 

i'll try lol

 

Thats odd??? My 700r4 upshifts into 4th @ WOT when the RPMs get to 4,200 in 3rd. Around 120 in drive mine shifts into 4th and actually stops pulling due to aerodynamics and the tall gearing (3.08s), and the fact the engine is now turning 2,800 rpm. If I hold it in 3rd manually I can get to 4,700 or so without a problem.

 

Interesting, maybe the Van transmissions were set up to do that. I know a 700R4 can be modified to shift into OD at WOT, I think the 9C1 Caprices do it as well, but stock F-Body ones will not.

 

QUOTE: undrivable mess with all these mods and no chip work

YUP. that was me. invested all those $$$$ and labor and ran like S++T.. hello ECU/prom thingee inside got to be learned up on that stuff. thanks guys.

 

why do you think that chevy designed the 700-R4 to not shift from 3rd to 4th in WOT??? It seems like a strange setup