I realized that now I would like to replace my air filter with an open element. I was thinking of getting a dual snorkel air filter but those are too expensive and not as efficient as the Edelbrock Open elements.

I was thinking of fully customizing my engine with edelbrock items, about how much hp will I churn out if I replace it with an edelbrock air filter and what size do I need?

I went to Pep Boys they had a 14 inch one for about 30 bucks total which isnt bad at all...

So what do you guys think?

 

i guess that it would be fine..although the only thing to worry about really for that is hood clearance.. you have to make sure however thick the element is that it will fit under the hood without problems.. as for power. I do not know if you will gain any since it will be sucking air that is directly over the engine which is normally pretty hot.. the best use for those is with a cowl hood and then seperate it from the rest of the bay so it is sucking cold air in.. then you might notice something

 

edelbrocks come with the drop base, just make sure u move the coil so it dont ground out.i just took out on bolt, losen the bolt that holds the throttle bracket and just turn the coil far enough and retighten it. as for difference, there is a butt-dyno difference

 

I can say that going to an Open Element was a noticable difference for me. Note though it will give your car a little bit of a different sound also. Not a bad one,but different.

Definently read the sticky on it.

I moved my coil to Firewall on driver's side. Haven't had any problems with it for years. Might need to adjust your sparkplug wires on your Dist Cap so they don't rub the element also.

Good Luck!

 

hood clerance will be tight, i have on on a 91 305 tbi, it has maybe a quarter inch clerance with the hood pad thing out, so it will be close.

 

The dual snorkel units are better than any open element. They draw in cool air from the front of the car and have a housing that is plenty big to feed a healthy motor. You can cut out the thermacs and take the intake even farther. Have you gone through your local junk yards? I just scored one unexpectantly for $30. They are out there but you have to look.

 

yep. cold air is important. and best for power building... that was why i was saying if you do an open element to figure out a way to get cold air around it such as a cowl induction hood would do.

 

ah, so this is a two step process....

I was going to get some cowl inductions for my car, they are 88 a piece online, but I personally have to install them myself, make measurements to my hood, make the cut....

Its alot of work but I want to make my car as fast as it can go without spending over 1000 dollars lol....

 

lol.. well if you want an open element then that cost 30 to 50 depending on the filter it comes with. Then the cold air induction hoods cost around 250 to 500 depending on if it is bolt on or lift off. Of course it need only cost you about 30$ for a sotck hood. about 30$ in metal and get a good welder guy to weld the cowl up for you. making the air box that goes around the thing would only take about 20$.. not to bad considering all of the hood clearance you would have then for other bigger toys later on

 

On my '86 which was a LG4 carbed I switched to an open element (K & N is the way to go. Do get the Pep Boys cheapie) and I noticed a difference as soon as I drove the car. I do have s ASCD Daytona Turbo hood with air vents. It is a cowl so the HOT air can escape. You need a cowl or at the very least get rid of the rubber stripping nearest the window on the hood or firewall.

Now on my '92 I am installing the TPI cold air induction and am expecting a simular result. Anything is better than stock. I

 

lol almost anything anyhow lol.. try putting on a holley 4160 carb, on top of an edlebrock performer intake.. lol.. if you don't have a cowl induction hood you can only have a 2" element.. lol.. and then all that nice hot air.. i noticed a difference. but then. i waould like the most out of what i do, so i am welding up a nice cowl hood lol.. since i am good at it

 

i've got the k&n air filter and i was told that it would rub the coil wires.. what would be a good way to fix this?

 

You can sorta adjust the wires to keep them from contacting the element housing. You can also use some electrical tape to to cover the wire. If they just touch a little there shouldn't be a problem. My plug/coil wire(s) are all over the place and touch everything that they aren't supposed to.

 

k, thanks

also.. i was told that if i don't put the IAT (i think it was) back into the new base my gas mileage will go to hell, in the FAQ thread it says to just plug it and push away from hot metal?

 

Hey, new guy here learning...Has anyone put a dual snorkel on a 92 RS with out moving anything from the engine bay? I have the ascd iroc turbo hood so I'm thinking a open element would not hurt.

 

That's not really true. Unless the IAT was bad, I can't see how it's going to ruin your gas mileage. While you can just tie up out of the way when you install an open element, I would highly recommend just drilling a hole in the open element base and installing it there, like the factory housing. That way, it will work correctly and you won't have to worry about it.


Relocating the IAT to a different place or "cooler" place, or even putting a resistor in the IAT wires is just an old trick, but it doesn't really work. You won't really see any gains by tricking the computer into thinking the air is colder.