1988 Camaro 350TBI which came out of a 1988 pickup. I raised the injectors 1/2inch, and added a 14" open air element.. I have added 108 octane booster that was meant for 16 gallons, and i'd say i had about 10 gallons.. I have been running these codes, 13,23,44. I have been stalling quite a bit lately.. cold starts are great 1500rpm. and then when its warm it idles at .500rpm and revs up and down.. I have been drag racing lately best time so far was a 9.92 in the 1/8...

While i was in the line to drag, i had it in gear, and i was on the brakes.. i was only sitting for about 20 seconds, and it stalled.. so i started it in N and reved it up to about 4500rpm, and it idled fine, then i had to move up another spot, and i left it in gear, and i would jump forward, even with brakes applied, then the engine would almost die.. and again it would jump forward again.. it did this quite a bit, and still does..


Thanks for any kind of help, Nick Hall
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also, I have a Stock looking coil, which is mounted on the manifold, not the dist cap.. and the metal frame on the coil is mounted tight to the manifold, however the coil, Plastic piece wiggles a bit..

 

Code 13 = Oxygen sensor voltage stays between 0.35 and 0.55 volts for 60 seconds. Engine was at normal operating temperature and had been running for at least 2 minutes after start with a throttle angle above 5%.
Code 23 = Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature below -22° F after the engine has been running for 5 minutes.
Code 44 = Oxygen sensor voltage was under 0.25 volts for 50 seconds of closed loop operation. On Brougham models the oxygen sensor voltage was under 0.2 volts.

Looks like that octane booster messed with your oxygen sensor, and I would not run it again on a nearly stock 350 TBI, and I mean this in the nicest way possible, but you shouldn't do it again because it pretty much has no gain what-so-ever on your car. It might have permanently or temporarily messed with your oxygen sensor, the only way to tell is when all that crap is out of your gas tank.

And the code 23 is IAT sensor related, might want to change it, sounds like it's malfunctioning.

 

Yea, i understand on the octane booster.. But if i run Supreme VS Regular, i have so much more throttle response.. I guess i will only use supreme, No octane Booster..

Code 23 is about the sensor in the air cleaner?

and whats the IAT? i'll try to look it up..
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Oh, its that 4-prong piece on the side of the TBI.. Okay.. I looked one up at advanced auto.. $30 bucks!

 

IAT = Incoming/Intake Air Temperature. Basically it tells the ECM the temperature of the incoming air so it will adjust how rich or learn the car runs based on the density. It is a pretty important piece and you can check to see if maybe it got unplugged before replacing it. But that $30 part would last you probably until you got rid of the car, so it wont give you any headaches later.

And yes that's what the code 23 is.

If you get better throttle response from premium, that's fine... I can agree with you there, but the octane booster is definitely not needed if you are already buying premium.

 

Yea my car has done that to me 2 times once when the fuel pump was only pushing 5psi and the other time it was my iat sensor in the air cleaner ($13).

 

well, when i put the open air element on, i figured i didnt need that little Gadget.. but i will hook that up ASAP..