Agh, well here goes a shot for nothing.

Cammy has been driving just fine if not annoyingly at times. Some of the problems from the past still persist today including my misfire at idle (sometimes really bad misfire where the car barely stays on)

Anyway, I checked all the things that could lead to a possible misfire on my car. I pulled out the plug wires they looked fine, they may need some cleaning but if I clean them up they should do fine. I pulled out plug wire #7 to see if the car is misfiring the same as before. It was misfiring worse, so I plugged it back in and the idle went back to its old shakey self.

The most annoying, and I mean by far the most annoying thing that happens in this car, is when it shuts off randomly at stop lights. What it does, is that the car stumbles, shakes, and idles so bad, it never stays on for a long period of time. I can sort of tell when I start my car up for the day, I can see if the car is acting normal, or acting spazzy. When it acts spazzy (and its starting to become more frequent mind you) I shut the car off, then start it back up again and everything returns to normal.

When I am cruising around 55-60mph and I let off the gas to start of roll down the street, and then I sort of tap the gas pedal, there's no response for about a split second, the RPMs dont move, it felt as if the car was being chokced out of fuel for about a second. It sort of caught itself and went back to driving range.

I checked for codes, and I got a code 22 and a code 54....I had a code 22 in the past, and I went and got it replaced, just to make sure I wasn't screwing around, I took it out again got it tested and put it back in tight and securely. I never got a Code 54 before I don't think, and I believe that's my fuel pump relay switch or circuit or something like that.

I was wondering if this fuel pump circuit thing could be the problem as to why my car shuts off randomly at times and why it idles so bad.

The car never idles smooth, it always has a mild shake from a dead stop, I mean my friend's 79' Carb'd 350 idles a hell of alot smoother than my car does. I sort of grown used to it over the year, but if the problem can be fixed, I would love to fix it this weekend, or maybe even today.

Should I pull out my Ignition Module and get that tested? Or what else should I do? Please I need help fellow 3rd gens.

 

check your fuel filter, may be clogged?

 

Fuel pump relay possibly, fuel filter possibly, wires and plugs very likely. Cleaning the wires externally does nothing except make them look better, wires are really touchy, if you get just alittle tiny cut in them it will scew up your idle and it will missfire. You wont even be able to see the cut most of the time. Also check your IAC and make sure that your injectors are clean, because it sounds that you have have poor throttle response.

 

I did basically all the routine maintenance on the car. That includes, changes of plugs, new fuel filter, new rotor and distributor cap...new TPS, new O2 sensor, new everything.


I haven't done the wires because, they don't look too bad to me. As far as the eye can see, there are no splits but there is in imperfection on one of the wires. It's just a little indentation but I seriously doubt that is whats causing my idle to crap.

As far as throttle response, yes it is poor. Even though its an LO3, I remember awhile back that the car used to pull a hell of a lot harder than it does nowadays. Not only that, the motor bogs when I punch it in the low RPMs, and slowly but surely as I climb up throughout the range, the car starts to pick up power and pull away.

It used to be like this, you gas it, the car immediately responds and takes off. It's kinda pathetic the way its acting now. I don't know what to do.

 

That sounds just like what my friend car used to do. It was so bad that at idle if you just stomped it really fast and let off it would sometiems stall. We changes the wires, cleaned injectors and fuel filter. But I bet its your injectors. Try running some good fuel injector cleaner. Or buy some new ones.

 

I'd just replace the wires to start with - they are like $20 for el-cheapo's.

Check each new wire with an ohm meter BEFORE installing - I had a new one recently that was broken inside, and it drove me crazy 'cause I knew they were new wires.

Might also double check the wires to plugs - I had one that seemed to snap on fine, but would work it's way loose enough to "look" like it was on the plug, but actually wasn't on enough to juice it good - that drove me crazy too til I found it.

Also check all vacuum lines for leaks.

 

Yes, deffinately check your vaccum lines, these EFI motors are very sensitive when it comes to vaccum.

 

whats your oil pressure @ idle, isnt there a sensor that shuts off the fuel pump if it drops below 15 psi?

 

The oil pressure sending unit when it reaches too low of a psi (Im not sure might be 15psi like you said) but when it does, theres a relay up by the firewall that turns the fuel pump off.

 

This is false.

The oil pressure switch turns ON the fuel pump once the oil pressure is above ca. 4 psi. This is done in case the fuel pump relay fails. The FP relay is driven from the ECM.

RBob.