ok I am about ready to light my car on fire and push it over a cliff. Went out today to work on it. It now has decided to not only not fire the injectors but also cause no spark. I tried dumping fuel into the throttle body and nothing. This thing is causing me so many headaches and getting me so aggrivated.

Last time I worked on it I was getting some fuel through the injectors but not alot and I also had spark. But now I have neither. I'm at the point now where I just want to take out the motor and put another one in, even if it takes a long long time to get the money.

 

Sounds like its time to look at the dist. No spark isolates your problem to the ignition. The dead injectors are probably just an effect of the ignition issues, and not the cause of your no-start. Have you replaced your module? Does your remote coil and module have power? How about the grounding? Is the reluctor in the dist. securely fixed to the shaft? Hows the pickup coil? If you dont have one, get a chiltons manual. It has alot of the factory wiring diagrams and diagnostics flow charts in it. Follow the charts, and test all the leads to the module and coil to make sure they have good continuity and the proper voltages. Also try running a temporary dedicated ground wire from the distributer base to the engine block and see if it helps. The ground for the module and the coil is the dist. base, so if the ground is faulty, then your going nowhere fast. When I rebuild the dist. I clean every point of contact from the module down to the intake to ensure a good ground. If not, youll risk burning the ignition back out again.

 

I didn't look here before working on my car. I replaced the ignition control module and the injectors are now firing but I still don't have spark for some reason.

I noticed that the wires going from the pickup coil to the ignition control module look kinda old but I dunno. What would I look for other than the pickup coil? I've read up about removing the pickup coil but not too sure how exactly I would go about doing it.

 

If the injectors are firing, the the pickup coil is probably OK. Does the tach work while cranking? That would at least mean that the module is switching the coil properly.

 

The tach does work when I crank the car

 

Sounds like the module is working. Odds are that it could be a faulty coil or a bad connection between the coil and the dist. Has the cap and rotor been replaced?

 

yup, was one of the first things I did to it,along with the spark plugs and wires

 

It could be a faulty coil then. With a DVM, you can perform some basic tests to the coil. Not conclusive, but if theres something really wrong with it, then it might show up.

 

being that no one brought it up and this happend to me 2 times have you check to make sure the rockers are moveing when you crank the engine

if your getting air spark and fuel nothing would stop combustion other then timeing

i broke a timeing chain twice and now if my car ever just dies or wont start i aways check to make sure the rockers are moveing when i start it to varifiy that the chain didnt brake

 

I'll check the coil tomorrow then dimented24x7, after camping out 2 days for the Rose Parade here in So Cal I had no energy to do any work today :/

 

*sigh* I feel like giving up or something. Coil tested fine, I didn't check the remote ignition coil but I figure I should anyways.

Oddly enough, I am now getting spark as I took out a couple of spark plugs and tested them by holding them up to the engine block and had a friend try and start it. So I am getting spark. I am no longer getting fuel spray though, which simply boggles my mind. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator with no effect.

I am wondering bout 2 things. First is timing, though I don't think that would cause the no spray issue. The second is my fuel pump. I know my fuel pump primes, but I don't know whether I get adequate fuel pressure. Around here there is no place to rent a fuel pressure tester for a TBI engine, you have to buy it and it's $40. My question to people here, is could my fuel pump be dying/ceasing/etc but yet still be trying to prime the system?

 

I reciently had fuel pump wiring/relay problems...and mabey it stops running after it primes...I wired my fuel pump to my tailights(park/runninglights) to manually wire it up....so when I put the park lights on it would run constantly...and I could shut it off when i wanted by switching the lights off....theres a electral connector above the axle on the fuel tank....the tan/white wire is the one to jump for this temporary setup...that way you "know" its pumping when you want it to.

 

OMG. Hopefully this was the problem. Stupid me of course I should have looked here first.

After fiddling around with some stuff, I finally said screw it and decided to drop the tank even though it sounded like the fuel pump was priming. Very very smart decision here.

Although it took me about an hour and half to get the tank out after dropping the rear end, I finally did. Took out the fuel pump and what do I find? That piece of crap rubber tube that goes from the fuel pump to the fuel line was completely disintegrated. It was there, but was in pieces. Which meant, even if my fuel pump was good, it would shoot the fuel back out into the tank. And I found a lot of little rubber pieces floating around in the tank too.

Tomorrow I will replace the fuel pump and everything, and put it all back. It was a PITA to take it out, let's hope it's easier to put back in. And let's hope it works.

 

Thats the problem there. Seems to happen every now and again. Ive heard of it happening alot with the cheap replacement pumps. See if you can get your hands on an A/C Delco pump.

 

I had bought a new one yesterday planning on replacing it anyways. And yes, it's an A/C Delco one.

 

It's alive, it's alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yup, twas the fuel pump that caused all the problems. And with the new pump in, it's very noticable when it primes so my guess is my old pump went as well as the rubber tubing too.

I feel so happy now