I have spending a lot of time under the hood lately and was thinking that maybee I could get rid of the PVC Valve by replacinging it with a breather cap and then caping the vaccum port on my TBI. Besides emissions levels is there any reasonnot to do this?
I Mostly want to simplify things and was also thinking that it might be benificial to general performance not to have the blow by gases forced back into the engine. Does this all make sense or am I missing something.
Thanks.

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Black 1989 RS Convertible w/43,000 mi.
Excellent Condition
LO3 305 w/TBI
12 PSI Fuel Pressure
6* Timing Advance
Open Element 14x3 K&N
Hypertech Thermomaster
160 Degree Thermostat
Low Temp Fan Switch
Eddlebrock RPM Muffler
No Cat/No AIR Injection
B&M Stage 2 Shift Kit
17"x8.5" ATP 5 Spoke Alloys
P 245/45 Goodyear Eagle
HP Ultra Plus Tires
Lakewood Control Arms

Coming Soon:
3.73 Gears
Headmann Headers & Y Pipe
Lakewood Pan Hard Rod
MSD Wires and Coil

 

Leave it alone for now you wont gain anything from putting a breather there, remember the pcv is like a little valve, at WOT it doenst really come into play cause theres not (or shouldnt be) enough vacuum to pull it open. Unless your car has some pretty severe blowby its not gonna make a difference at pt really (in which case it wouldnt matter cause a car with alot of blowby is gonna be slow either way )

 

keep that PCV valve, on a street car it keeps the engine clean by suckin out all the blowby gases ...without it acids will build up quick destroying yer engine purdy quick

 

Yeah, you gotta leave it on there. Your oil WILL get rotten real quick without it. The only thing you COULD do is to make sure that the PCV you are using will offer the lowest flow with your setup. Too much PCV flow will be like a large vacuum leak and can be tuned for but I'd rather have air going through the throttle blades and mixing with the fuel that way. There are lots of different PCV valves for SBC's and they all have a little letter inprinted on the bottom of the floating valve. This letter is 'supposed' to correlate to the spring rate of the PCV valve but can be off a little. Still, better than nothing. I cannot remember the rates vs which letter to use but a good dyno/engine tuner can tell you which PCV to use.

When your engine vacuum goes down, the valve opens up and flows MORE air. When at idle, the high vacuum pulls the valve up to its seat and only flows very small amounts of air. The lower the vacuum signal, the more flow through the PCV becasue the PCV "pintle" comes of of its seat allowing air to pass by. Pull the PCV out while the engine is running and you will see the valve all the way at the top seated in the seat. You can pur a piece of paperclip wire in the PCV (when engine is off) valve to prevent the valve from seating properly. THEN you will see how much flow actually goes through this valve. IT IS A LOT! Why do you think the PCV hose connection is the LARGEST one on all vehicles? Lots of flow, man.

I have run PCV restrictions in my HOT-Rodded vehicles with great results. The PCV will still work fine because it will still see vacuum signlas properly, but the restriction will allow a lesser flow. I use a 1/8 - 1/4 orifice, depending on the cam and age of the engine. If you go too far, you may need a new PROM burned, too, so be careful. You should only be worried about this if you are looing for a little more oomph out of an engine in good shape that you mainly race. If your car is a daily driver with high miles/lots of blowby, don't touch anything. ie, if you pull the PCV valve with the engine running and the vapors/stink air is visible coming out of the PCV valve hole, DON'T do anything becasue you need the flow to get rid of that stink. Just imagine what is happening in there at WOT at 5000-6000 rpm!