ok i've been reading alot of posts about what it takes to make a strong running(250+hp and 300+tq) 305 tbi setup, heres what i've put together(let me know if i've missed something)

3.42 rear end gears-
Positraction unit-
145mph speedometer-
Headers-
Y pipe-
High-flow catalytic converter-
Cat-back exhaust system-
Dual snorkel or open air filter element-
Fuel pressure regulator-
Fuel pump-
Intake manifold-
Spark plug wires-
Synthetic fluids-
Camshaft-
Cylinder heads-
Shift kit-
Computer chip-
Under drive pulley kit-

all i need is YOU to tell me which brands are reliable, priced well, and ready to meet my performance requirements. let me know where to purchase these things. seems to me that the transmission would be the weak link after these modifications. any ideas?

i want a DAILY DRIVER that i can have fun with. i want to run a decent 1/4 mile(13's would be nice) NEEDS TO PASS EMISSIONS IN ARIZONA!

Dont want to spend a fortune

 

first off the gauges are needed i dunno if you just want them or what. next the chip you must burn yourself if you want it done right. and i believe underdrive pulleys will do jack! just my opinion waste of money right there. you dont need a FPR read up on this site somewhere it tells you how to make the stock one adjustable for free if you do it yourself. and synthetic is a no no if youve already put miles on the motor. if you dont use synthetic since the car was new or ever since the new motor was put in do not put it in. it will cause leaks, plus i find it does nothing really anyways except drain your wallet. get an open element they are cheap and easier to install then a dual snorkel which if you have a/c will be a PITA to route the intake tubes. dont forget a nice set of plugs to go with your wires. and if you want a little extra time off the 1/4 you can even add nitrous its cheap and very effective.

 

vipershark is correct in telling you to leave some of those choices you made out.
fuel pump i have read that the stock replacement should be good enough especially on a mild build like the one you are looking for. just need to raise fuel pressure and if you need more put 350 tbi injectors. edit...replace with a TPI pump or a 190 walbro
tuning will be the most important factor i believe and with that you can tune for 350 injectors should you need them.
definitely get an open element.
edelbrock performer intakes seem to be popular(air gap) i myself have not decided on which i want yet.
shorty hedders if you don't want to modify will fit...full length if you don't mind grinding away at your car a little.
you can run dual exhaust if you choose..there are lots of options once you are under the car of where to route the pipes and mufflers.
LT1 cam if a safe one....i don't know how rad you want to go.
injector spacers and grinding the tb around the bores would be good
wires are more choice i think
3.42 gears are good as long as you get a posi unit as well
also another note on the exhaust is that go atleast 3" and mandrel bent.
then tune tune tune away and get everything set right.
heads? i can't say. i'm rather confused on the whole thing. i read an back article in CHP and they gained only 0.5 sec and 2 mph doing a head and cam swap in the quarter mile...granted it was into a headwind and it was an auto, but to me...a heads, cam, full exhaust and chip tuned v8 should break atleast 14's...and yeah...they didn't. although it was with a Qjet.
with that being said i guess i would go with the sr torquer from world products for head choice. the stock head if ported should do well too.
maybe also 1.6:1 rockers, but i think with the LT1 cam you need different springs or need to grind something to make room for the lift. i would like answers to this question as well if anyone would like to chime on in here...hahaha

 

3.42 rear end gears-Stock gears from a V6 car
Positraction unit-Zexel Torsen or auburn
145mph speedometer-Not totally needed but nice
Headers-hooker 2055's
Y pipe-Come with the hookers
High-flow catalytic converter-Catco high flow cat
Cat-back exhaust system-hooker 3inch aerochamber
Dual snorkel or open air filter element-Open element
Fuel pressure regulator-Don't need one if you can tune
Fuel pump-walbro 190 or 255
Intake manifold-2inch bored Edelbrock intake
Spark plug wires-msd 8.5's (won't really add power but are nice)
Synthetic fluids-Mobil 1 10w3 oil
Camshaft-Lt1 or ZZ4 depending on how far you want to go
Cylinder heads-ported stockers,081's or ZZ4 heads
Shift kit-B&M shift kit if you're cheap or transgo for the best
Computer chip-This part is in your hands
Under drive pulley kit-Yes they do work......March,ASP or others.
that's all I can say about that.

 

Hi there,
well I got a question @ robertfrank and the rest of the crew:
I got a similar problem: I live in Germany and finally got myself a '89 Firebird Formula with the L03 Engine and a 700R4. Rest is standard. I got it to build a 1/4 mile car, capable of at least 13s.
I wanted to ask what would be the best way to get into those numbers without spendig big bucks? You have to remember- every part costs around twice to three times the price of what it would be in the US. So what would be my best way to go? I really need some experienced input here guys- summer's comin' quickly

 

The short answer? Full exhaust, 3.73 gears/posi and a lot of laughing gas.

Can't make any promises on how long it will last though.

 

Well, I'll get back to that...

Any other options - no laughing gas please...