Hello again,

I found these at Scoggin Dickey for $289.50 per head. They say they were used on the 285 hp crate 350 which is no longer available. Basically I'm looking for an emissions legal bolt on deal and this looks like it. I know alot of people will say go Vortec, but I've thought about it and passed it up because I don't want to buy a new manifold or plumb the new EGR connection. Besides, whatever amount of horses ends up coming out of this thing (it's gotta be over 170) will seem like a hell of alot more in a 740 Volvo sedan with 4.11 rear gears

So are there any really good reasons NOT to buy these (prone to cracking, warping....that sort of thing?) Or can I rest assured that these heads will live a long and healthy life atop my 305? Also as a side note-what is an average charge for milling a 64cc head down to 58cc?

Thanks,

Matthew C. Hall

 

for $600 get the SR 305 torquers. They are already 58cc.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, auto, 14x3 chrome flat based open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips....

Soon to be installed:
Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248), Catco 3" cat, and injector spacer.

Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
AOL IM: superGRtaz

 

THose heads are sheot. Get the Vortec's with a new manifold and the EGR stuff and it'll cost about the same as those other heds alone. SDPC has a vortec head kit for like $690 that has heads, head gaskets, Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake, intake gaskets, intake bolts, head bolts and rocker arms/*****/nuts. NICE setup!!! They carry the EGR thingy, too, and probably $30-$45, but not sure. I believe the EGR pice is an Edelbrock add-on. MUCH BETTER HEADS THAN THE old crate motor heads, trust me!

 

Fastbroker,

When I called SDPC yesterday they told me that if I wanted the kit with the GM TBI Vortec manifold the kit was $1000 (plus the charge to get them milled-$290, plus shipping to NJ $70) so the total came to $1360...Now I'm not one of those people who bellyaches about price all the time, but I am in college and poor I was going to pickup a new valve train from Summit for a little over $400...so If I get those and the S/R Torquers I'll be at a little over $1000 which isn't too bad. The only thing I need at that point is hardware. So anyway, what makes the H/P's so bad are they dogs as far as flow or what?

Thanks,

Matt

 

Matt, how far along or how much money have you spent so far on the shortblock? With the money you plan to spend on the 305 you could by a 350 crate motor that has around 240hp and a lot more tq and will run on the cheapest gas you can find. There should be a GM dealer that has one for $1200. to $1300. close to you so you would not have to pay shipping.

Steve

 

Steve,

The 305 I have was one that was in a friend's car. It chewed up a rod bearing he gave it to me, and I paid for the machine work by selling the engine/trans out of the Volvo. I would go for the 350 but the stock rear wouldn't do too well with anymore than 225 horses. I plan to run with the TBI 305 and 700R4 trans through college and maybe once I get the money drop in an LT1, 6 speed, and a hopped up Dana rearend.

Later,

Matt

 

I'm not sure where exactly these vicious rumors about our rearends come from, but the new Z28's, T/A's, WS6's, and Z28 SS's come with 7.5 rearends. My 82 Z28 has been running mid 12's for 2 seasons pulling 1.68-1.70 60' times with a STOCK 7.5 w/ a set of Richmond 4.10's and an Auburn minispool. STOCK meaning factory carrier, and factory 26 spline axles. I know of several thirdgens (Not to mention the 8 - 12 4th gens that show up every week) here in my area running 11's and even one running 10.80's with 7.5 rearends. Properly built, these rearends are much stronger than some people think. Now granted, I'm not saying they are a 9 inch or a 12 bolt, but with a good set of gears, and a posi carrier/or minispool,and about .008" backlash, these rearends will take pretty much anything a street engine can dish out. I'm not trying to sound like an A$$, I'm just pointing out that you CAN go pretty fast in our cars w/o spending $1800 to $2000 on an aftermarket rearend, contrary to what our "always accurate" Hot Rod magazines tell us

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82 Z28 383, Ported 215cc Dart Iron Eagle Heads, Comp custom grind roller cam, Speed Pro .250" domes, Wheeler Motorsports 4340 I beam rods, Eagle 5140 steel crank, Weiand Team G intake, Holley 800 DP, hedman headers
Trans: Turbo 350 w/ 4000 stall -- Rearend 7.5 w/ Richmond 4.10's, Auburn Minispool
Best ET: *NEW ENGINE* untried at track!!


89 RS, L03 305, Hypertech Chip,cat delete, Dynomax exhaust,K&N open element Filter,160 stat, MSD coil --Trans:700R4 Corvette Servo -- Rearend: 7.5 GM 3.42 w/ posi-lock
New Best ET: 14.91 @92.9
Bassett Racing
Mid Atlantic F Body -82 Z28 Page

R.I.P. Dale Earnhardt #3

 

Hmmm...

I'm just going by what I've generally heard from guys who have done some really sick stuff with turbo 4 bangers. There is one guy on the Turbobricks list who has a Volvo 2.3L turbo with a heavy duty bottom end, blueprinted and balanced (it screams all the way to 7500 rpm!), and he runs 28 lbs of boost with an alcohol injections system...crazy stuff, but anyway. Basically the consensus is that once you pass 225 horses the ring and pinion tend to grenade (in an abuse situation-which I plan to do So I think what I'm going to do is run the car like it is and chase down a wagon rearend with a bigger ring gear and get a limited slip installed. Most of the guys who have done V8 conversions before me (mostly Rustang 5.slow motors) haven't had any problems, but then again most of the guys I've talked to have bone stock engines...

Later,

Matt