I am wondering if it is better for me gas mielage wise to just wait till my car warms up and enters closed loop on jsut start up and drive?

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89 camaro 305 tbi, flomaster 3 chamber cat back, gutted cat, Edlebrock TES Headers, Exhaust cutout, Edlebrock open element, 160 degree T-stat, and a Stage 2 FastChip.

2 kicker comp 12"'s, polk for the rest. Phoenix gold xs2300 to subs, kicker impulse 404XI to 4 speakers, pioneer DEH- P7000R head unit, and finally a 12 disc changer. Full leather interior from http://www.MrMikes.com

 

Mike, you could try it both ways for a while and tell us the findings you have. I personaly think it wouldn't make much difference either way.

Steve

 

Yes, but you will be hard pressed to document the difference because it is very slight. After your car warms up, the engine is recieveing signald from sensors onn the motor that helps it gauge it's fuel needs. When cold, it is running on a pre-programmed thing that is a little rich (safe) to help the cat flash over a little quicker.
Jerry

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1989 Lt. Blue RS 5-speed
355 crate motor, Compucam 2040,
PST Front suspension,
Hotchkis rear suspension,
EDL T.E.S., 3" Flowmaster
Harwood cowl hood

1994 Black Z28 6-speed
Nothing major, but FUN!

 

You will be using more gas waiting for it to warm up. Why would you try to save gas driving when you are just sitting there? IT is just a longer time your engine is running and using up more fuel.

 

Do you think I am getting less gas mileage since everywhere i Drive is so close? Its only 2 miles to work and I mainly just drive from there and back and I only go whne my car is completely cold.

 

Sure you get better mileage when the car is warmed up. However, you will have to drive alot of miles for the added 'warmed up' mileage to overcome the zero mileage you get while the car is warming up. Also, the car will warm up faster if you drive it, compared to letting it idle. Yes, short trips on a cold engine will get you less mileage than long trips on a warmed up engine.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

Don't have a lead foot and you should be able to shift under 2000. If you're only going 4 miles total like me, who cares what the gas milage is. My dad drives a suburban, if you had to drive on the highway or over 50mph for more than 5 mintutes then MAYBE it'll save you like $40 a year.

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, Jon (350 TBI!)
91 Red My website