Sorry that I've been pounding away with the intake questions, but I hate doing things over and this will be bout 4 (!!!!!!!!) with taking my manifold off.

I'm looking at the Holley TBI intake.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SM/300-66.html
Now, this one does NOT have a rear water outlet that my van needs for the heater core. Can I use one of the outlets that is on the front of this manifold. How does the F-Body get coolant to / from the heater core? I'll buy this one if I can use the front outlet if it won't cause any flow problems or hot spots. Right now, my heater core gets coolant FROM the rear passage, and goes TO the pipe on the water pump (I think the F-body has this pipe plugged).
Thanks again.

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'92 Astro, GM crate 350, Performer TBI intake, MSD 6AL, 3.42's, 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster 40 2 chamber, B&M 2nd stage shift kit, 255 60 R15 tires on AR-727's, Polished & Bored TBI, Custom EPROM in progress

[This message has been edited by V8Astro Captain (edited October 28, 2001).]

 

most intakes don't have the rear water passage. They get coolant for the heater from the the front passage.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS.6

[This message has been edited by Tas (edited October 29, 2001).]

 

You can use the front passage.
Let me warn you that you should use the TBI specific intake gaskets if you do go with a rear (stock location) passage. The gaskets should have a small hole in both sides to limit the flow. If they aren't there the coolant will go through the heatercore and into the radiator and pretty much bypass the thermo when you have the heat on! Does that make sense? Because I just thought about why my stock intake gaskets had the funny design and now it makes sence...after I've thought about it for some time. If you keep the heater off the heater valve will stay shut and the engine will warmup like normal so it doesn't really matter, it's just when you start the engine cold and have the heater on

 

You want flow through the heater core to bypass the thermostat. That way, your defrost/heat comes on quicker...

V8Astro, I would just use a Performer manifold with an adapter plate if you ever plan to use a carb or mess around with stuff later... just my opinion. To pay more for a dedicated manifold is your choice and that manifold is pretty nice, too. I just like the option of carbing motors for dyno work and mileage testing and stuff like that...

[This message has been edited by fast_broker (edited October 29, 2001).]

 

Thanks for all the replies. I have to deal with emissions tests so a carb is a not an option at all, tho it would be alot easier.

I was looking into a dual plane carb manifold with the adapter, but it was turning into a big mess trying to get EGR and all that to it. I know they make EGR carb manifolds, but none for the '87 and up heads. There's just too many variables involved here. I was looking everywhere for a manifold that would work but then realized the whole idea behind taking this manifold off is because it leaks, and I don't want to add more chances of something not working.

 

the only differeance pre and post '87 are the 4 center manifold bolt angles. You need to grind the holes into an oval shape. I even have to do it on my 7547.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS.6