so me and my dad finally started the lt1 cam swap we had been putting off for so long we actually started yesterday on and off we are at the point where we can put the new cam in we hope to have it done arount 3:30- 4:00 but then i have to tune it ill post up with some gtech numbers and results later today.

 

Please give us all the details after start up. Did it start? if not what did you have to do to get it to started? how did it run on the stock tune? what changes did you make after the first datalog? what kind of power increase did you have? If you had it to do all over again would you put in the same cam or go after market? Alot of people on here say it is the way to go with a 5.0 but very little detailed info after the swap. I have my cam but not ready to do it yet. I and I'm sure many others would benefit from your experience.

 

well right now it wont be running on a stock tune because i already tuned for headers exhaust etc. but ill let you know how it runs when the ecm is tuned for what mods i stated above

 

Congrats. Keep us posted on your progress. What valve springs did you end up using and which year LT1 grind did you go with?

 

i ended up using a 97 camaro lt1 cam right now we are working later then expected putting valve springs on is taking longer then expected

 

dose any one have the torque specs for the cam gear

 

20ft lbs. on the cam sprocket.

 

sorry for no updates had heavy rains which caused alot of power outages and had no internet in shifty's write up on the cam swap he uses the cheap bar valve spring compressor let me just say that is the only way to go on this engine the other one we have just didint work at all also if anyone else is doing this swap the retainers have a tendency to stick and make it hard to get the spring off so if you just tap the outside of where the retainers are they break loose

 

Are u using the nilon cord or compressed air to keep the valves up? Its good to have someone take the time posting his progresses.
Im planning on the same swapp the next days. What number is on your lt1 cam?

 

im using the compressed air method im not to sure what the number is on my cam all i know is its out of a 97 camaro

 

The lever bar style compressor is indeed combersome. A smaller top mount spring remover unit is best and I now feel is worth the money.

 

ya we tried the top mounted one but it would just pull the bottom of the spring up and we could not break the keepers loose ohh also as of right now intake manifold is on distributor is iin and we just have a few more things to button up and also dose any one have the specs on the 97 lt1 cam for the the camaro those specs are hard to find

 

97 LT1 cam is 205/207 dur. .447/.459 117deg. lobe separation

 

thanks gofast did any one have a problem with the fuel lines that go into the back of the tbi lining up the manifold were using is the edelbrock performer for 87 and up if that makes any difference the line sits right on top of the vacume line gose into the manifold

 

ok everything is now back together and we now have a problem that everytime we start the car and put it in drive the tach flips out and the car shuts off please help if any one has any input at all thats a big help

 

You stated when you put it in drive. Have you already set the timing? I would also set the min. idle speed (open the butterfly a little) it probably won't want to idle with that cam with the stock cam idle setting. Also if you have done that I would check your grounds (motor and chassis) to make sure they are all connected. The grounds on the front bolt of the manifold are for the ecm.

 

we ended up advancing it to get it to idle it had to advance a whole lot more then what we had

 

It should idle at the factory setting either 0deg or 6 deg. whatever it is supposed to be. Your idle setting is going to be low and you will probably have to pull the plug and open your throttle blades a bit. Any timing change other than setting it to factory specs on the timing marks on the timing cover should be made in the prom.

 

its 8 degrease advanced on the dizzy right now and in my chip im only throwing another 2 at it but it right now its not very driveable it has no power at all i need some imput as where to go from here on tuning i started tuning my ve tables as we speak im data logging right now i threw a code 43 so this should be a fun night lol

 

I'll see if I can find a lt1 timing table.fast355 had posted one in the thread in the diy prom entitled ebl. it was near the end of the thread. I'm currently running at 18 deg. at idle (0 deg. at the dissy) and it idles fantastic (stock l03).

 

Here it is I hope you can read it. Increase your timing slowly to this chart and verify with a datalog. I would not hesitate to add at least 10% and up to 20% ve across the board just to see where you are at. Remember to adjust your iac counts as you make any changes to timing and fueling.

 

The code 43 is from disconnecting the plug when you set your timing. Just clear it out by disconnecting the battery.

 

After I recently did my lt1 cam swap, I had to add what seemed like a ton of timing. It went from dog to wow, with big timing table bump. However, my ve table wasn't largely changed after the lt1 cam and I didn't have adjust the idle at all.

 

my dad pullled an idiot and accidently retarded the timing right now on the dizzy its 12 advanced also i burned a new chip with my old setting and it lays rubber pretty good but it falls on its face after it hits second anyone have any suggestions

 

Gladstone, I see you have EBL. I do as well. I suggested he bump his fueling because I beleive he still has a stock ECM. If you compare the EBL timing and fueling tables to a stock ECM you will see why you didn't have to make any large changes. You may need to add AEMAP to the areas that your ride is falling on it's face. The stock settings are very weak and you have to probably raise them 10% also to get it to drive right. Also after a certain rpm there is no more map AE contribution. adding some to those areas will wake your car right up.Your car will idle at the correct idle speed because the computer is controlling it.Your IAC counts are what will be out of line and will cause you to adjust the throttle blades.

 

i dont have a stock tune on the car i had previously tuned for headers exhaust etc my dad and i beleave our computer is going bad it glitches alot and even before the swap it would just glitch and shut off but it would start right back up we are going to buy the flash ebl

 

Good call on the flash ebl. I think you will enjoy tuning alot more with it. If you don't have a wide band put it on your christmas list, it makes tuning ALOT easier when you can see exactly what your changes are doing!

 

markymarco, how is your swap running?
I had to "adjust" the TV cable 5 times cause of the tbi performer untill I got it to shift right.

 

its running well it seems to have alot more mid rpm power were still having trouble tunning down low from a stop when i step on it will break loose but it wont stay spining so theres something to be tuned down low also i was surprized by how much timing this motor wants we have it at 46 degrees advanced starting out and it gets down to about 16 degrees at 5500 no pings or spark knocks either but so far im pretty happy

 

Damn, you think you will get it to keep spinning? Mine just breaks lose and thats it. It pulls wery good from 2000rpm up and hard from 3000rpm. For now im having a friend doing the chip, im starting to learn understand the datalogs but next try I will pay attention to the timing advance.

 

ive already started tunning and gotten the fueling and timing down

 

Could you e-mail me your datalogs for comparing? Im using vinaldl. Timing and fueling map could also be interesting and helpfull.

 

ill e-mail you my bin and xdf for tuner pro since im using the ebl my data logs are different

 

Did I read that correctly? Is that 46 degrees at part throttle or are you speaking of WOT 100kPa MAP? If that's at WOT that is WAY WAY too much timing! If those are stock LO3 heads you won't need much more than 29 or 30 degrees full advance in your 90-100map areas. I like to just start with a typical vac advance dizzy curve and go from there, you might want to try that. You'll also probably need a lot more AE, that could be your problem, if you stab the throttle and it jumps hard but then bogs down a little you need more AE.

 

thats at part throttle its really running great but from a dig its a dog but once it winds up it chirps emm into second

 

Ok, good, I'm glad I was wrong then. Just didn't want to assume anything.

Look into tuning the AE then if it's a dog from a dig, also, you may want to ramp in the timing faster, that may make a difference there too. What's your full WOT advance look like?

 

soth@bluemail.ch
Thanks

 

Do you happen to know of a writeup of how to tune ae im pretty much lost as how to do it i understand you need more ae at cooler tempretures and less at normal operating temp but im still trying to figure out what they all do

 

i think there is one in stickies...i started lean witnessed the lean pop in manifold then gradually brought in more AE until it was where it seemed best.

having a WB is helpfull.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...=accell+enrich

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...e-thing-i.html

Both decent threads, remember that almost anything tuning-wise for the 7730 TPI applies to TBI as well.