Hey guys, I got a little different vehicle than what you are used to but its still the same stuff in a different package. Its a 87 cheby 1/2 ton with a 350 tbi. My sister ran it outta oil so we had the engine out and did a rebuild. We got it all back in and together but cannot get it to fire. Even sprayin fuel or starter fluid makes no difference. We set the timing correctly and all, BUT when I pulled off a spark plug and put it to the block to see if we had spark, we didnt. We also couldnt get a timing light to work at all since no spark. I tested the coil with a ohm meter like the manual says to do and checked the pickup inside the distributer and both those tests were with specs. I checked both connectors on the distributer, which are fine and same with the ones on the coil. Could it be a bad module in the distributer? Is there any way to test it? Does it at all control the fuel injectors, because when we crank it over, sometimes they spray the full cranking period, sometimes they are sporatic and sometimes not at all... The spark plug wires , wires and connectors are all in good shape and clean. This truck ran good before we had it apart, I dont know what to do with it now...maybe you guys can help?
Thanks!

 

i'd replace the control module. that does control the fuel as well as spark. since your not getting either that would be my guess..

 

Ok guys, the ignition problem fixed, it was the module in the distributer. The fuel problem was the switch over valves for the dual tanks was stuck in the middle. It came to life today!! BUT it runs very very rough, the whole truck and engine shudders very badly and will not idle. I checked timing, its set at 0, checked for vaccumm leaks, double checked all spark plug wires and connectors. I dont know what to do next, an ideas? Its difficult to start, I have to give it throttle and give it throttle to keep it running. It will sometimes race and clear up and run smooth for just a second then run poorly again. Any Ideas?

 

slick

Take a look at injector fuel spray pattern - it should be a nice uniform spay hitting walls of TB at idle. If you see drips or a stream of fuel you may have combination of dirty injectors or low fuel pressure. Take a look at this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfxuOOliRdg


Timing should be set with timing set connector (EST bypass) in open position. It is a single pin weather pack connector on a brown-white wire. Once timing is set, shutoff engine, reconnect EST bypass and you'll have to disconnect neg battery terminal to clear Code 42. If you have set base timing with EST connector you have retarded base timing by about 20 degrees. This may explain why it is running poorly.

//RF