nasty sputtering in gear
nasty sputtering in gear
So I go out today and start up my 92 RS, and no problems, let it warm up a while, and take her down the road still no problems, all of a sudden, it starts spuddering real nasty and not back firing, but blowing back through the TBI , when I put it in nuetrel and rev it its absolutly fine, but soon as I put it in gear (auto) it starts with the sputtering again....If I barley....and I mean very barely give it gas, it seems to be ok, but soon as I give it anything over a 1/2# of power it sputters even dies from drowning I think....again...nuetral and its ok and revs to 4500 with ease...When I get home and park it and let it sit for about 3 hours and try again its fine.....till about 15 min into the ride...
any idea's? also its not throwing any codes...
any idea's? also its not throwing any codes...
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iTrader: (14)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 254
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From: Painesville, Ohio USA
Car: 1989 IROC Z28
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Corvette servo
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen, 3.23, posi, PBR
Re: nasty sputtering in gear
I wonder if your CTS is starting to fail? That's the two wire sensor next to the thermostat housing. When mine failed, the ECU thought the engine was extremely cold and caused the injectors to meter a lot of fuel.
A couple of quick tests may help you find out.
1) The resistance should be ~3,000 (engine cold) - ~200 ohms (~210 degF).
2) Simply disconnecting the sensor made my engine run better when the sensor was defective.
3) Jumping the connector w/ a ~200-300 ohm resistor will make the ECU think the coolant is warmed up.
A couple of quick tests may help you find out.
1) The resistance should be ~3,000 (engine cold) - ~200 ohms (~210 degF).
2) Simply disconnecting the sensor made my engine run better when the sensor was defective.
3) Jumping the connector w/ a ~200-300 ohm resistor will make the ECU think the coolant is warmed up.
Re: nasty sputtering in gear
I wonder if your CTS is starting to fail? That's the two wire sensor next to the thermostat housing. When mine failed, the ECU thought the engine was extremely cold and caused the injectors to meter a lot of fuel.
A couple of quick tests may help you find out.
1) The resistance should be ~3,000 (engine cold) - ~200 ohms (~210 degF).
2) Simply disconnecting the sensor made my engine run better when the sensor was defective.
3) Jumping the connector w/ a ~200-300 ohm resistor will make the ECU think the coolant is warmed up.
A couple of quick tests may help you find out.
1) The resistance should be ~3,000 (engine cold) - ~200 ohms (~210 degF).
2) Simply disconnecting the sensor made my engine run better when the sensor was defective.
3) Jumping the connector w/ a ~200-300 ohm resistor will make the ECU think the coolant is warmed up.
but if that was the case it would sputter in or out of gear wouldnt it? Thats the part that baffels me is the being in gear part...
along time ago I had a jeep grand charokee and a similar problem it ended up being the bell housing...I dont know if these 700r4's have a bell housing or not, but I'm hoping someone comes along that gives me some more insight...
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UltRoadWarrior9
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Sep 2, 2015 08:24 PM




