im not sure what area to post this in but im going to be swapping my tbi all over to a holley set up. i have a street dominator intake its a pre 87 style(i got this for free) and a holley 650 carb(got it when i traded this guy a tach). currently the carb needs a rebuild so im waiting on the kit. the last few things i am going to need i know are new intake gaskets a fuel pressure regulator probably fuel lines and most importantly a distributor.

my questions are on the wiring to the distributor what do i do there? do i just cut and run the pink and white wire or something to the new dist.?

also how do i route the fuel lines? i know that may sound silly but i cant make out what the tech article is saying about the fuel lines. im just going to remove that charcoal canister as mine is all beat to hell and messed up.

other than that i pretty much got this all mapped out. as far as my timing issue i still have. im just going to remove the front acc and get that harmonic balancer off and change the timing gear and chain. when i went to try to get it off the last time i couldnt get it to come off. the crank shaft and everything was moving with it. how do i get this bad boy off? should i just beat the sh*t out of it to get it off and buy a new one?

i bought a noisy roller cam gear drive with about 6k miles on it from somebody in maine. im not sure of the brand but would that work with my stock cam? because i was looking at gear drives before and some of them said will not work with stock roller cam. i lost contact with the guy i bought it from so theres no way i will know the brand it is.

 

i did my swap over the winter and i cant remember what i did with the wires, so i'll look and take a pic for you next time i got down to work on it.

as for the fuel lines, you will need a fuel regulator to run the return fuel line into the bypass side of the regulator. with the actual fuel line from the tank to the carb, you will need a line from the cars fuel line going to the fuel regulator. after the regulator, you will most likely need a fuel gauge (depending on your carb probably). after the gauge, just run a fuel line to the carb.

i cant help you out with the timing set, but i'll try and get back to this thread a.s.a.p. about the dist. wiring for you.

 

ok cool thanks. and that makes enough sense and sounds easy to do.

is there a specific regulator i will need or will any brand with the 5-8 psi work?

 

Use a vacuum advance hei, you need 1 wire to run it, it should be the pink/red that normally goes to the remote coil. It should plug into the hei 12v terminal, next to it is the tac terminal.
Make sure the timing set matches the cam shaft bolt pattern, they changed that on roller cams. Any part # on that set?

 

ill have to look for it everything is on the porch and its a mess of parts everywhere.

what about the harmonic balancer? i cant seem to get that dang thing off. i have to removal tool and everything the crank just keeps turning with the balancer and it wont come off. is it slowly coming off or am i not doing this right?

 

Are you saying the engine is rotating while you are tightening the puller? Most pullers have a squared side to put a wrench on (1" wrench or so) to keep it from turning.

 

yes as i tighten the puller bolt against the crank piece the hole engine turns. i even have that pointed piece put in there but no luck. the whole thing rotates. i even tried to start it up with out that bolt it hoping it would just vibrate off but no luck.

 

Post a picture of your puller.
If you have a compression tester, you can remove the schrader valve, & screw it into a spark plug hole, add compressed air. My craftsman tester has the same conector that my air tools have. Turn the engine over till the valves close in that cylinder, then the engine will air lock in place. You then should be able to turn the forcing bolt on the balancer w/out the engine rotating anymore.

 

its the oem set from autozone. i heard something about vise grips on the flywheel. that sounds like a pita to do though i looked under there and i got all that suspension and framing in my way

 

You see the square side of the puller (at the 10 o'clock position), put a wrench on that while turning the forcing bolt. Sometimes the balancer takes some force to initially break loose the balancer. Then it gets easier.

 

i ground the original timing tab off after removing the water pump and using a mr gasket timing tab that bolted on. then bought the timing tape to put on the balancer and reisntalled the water pump. even if you go with another cover you might still have to use an aftermarket timing tab.

 

ok i will let you know how that goes hopefully during the week sometime and if not then definitely over the weekend. its suppose to be almost 70 saturday and sunday here in maryland.

 

i bought a chrome timing cover off summit for like 8$ and it doesnt have the tab on it for timing.

 

this is the one i used.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...e&apwidg1z9x4T

 

so that just bolts on with the timing cover bolts? ill have to buy it

 

thats it. and i bought timing tape for mine from summit. that way the timing and advance can be set. im still using both right now with my new tbi set up since i went back.

 

ill have to get that too.

when you swap yours to carb what type of intake did you use? and will the coolant temp sensor be necessary with the elimination of the ecm and all that wiring?

 

i used an edelbrock performer intake. and no the temp sensor will not be used. you just need to make sure the temp sendor is there.

 

damn that seems to be popular. so with the coolant temp sensor i just need to screw it into my new intake? and all other holes can i just put those plug screw things into them?

 

you only need the temp sender. it should be in the head. as for the temp sensor you wont need it any more.

 

oh ok so i can finally get rid of all that stuff. ill have to look for something big enough to screw into those holes on my intake.

but to the other person, what do you mean put a wrench on the square side? like onto the bolt that holds it to the damper?

 

when you look at the picture of the puller one of the arms is square. you cn put a wrench on that arm to hold it still.

 

so i got to work on the car this weekend i got the wiring harness completely removed and all the **** im not using removed. now on to the questions. what are the two wires that come off the plug that goes to the alternator? i know what the red one is but what are the two thin wires too?

 

This Tread hurts my eyes, could it be moved over to the Carb forum?