Hmmm, I've got an EDGE 3200 and I LOVE it. Definately made the H/C/I swap come alive. It's really not that bad if you have a lighter car.

 

Eh a good stall converter won't be too much. I have a lot more done to my engine than a stock one. But you put a 2200 vigilante in your car and you'd love it. the better converters slip, but not as much as the cheap ones. which he probably had.

 

Yessir!! lol

 

yup and the key thing is we both have good high quality converters

 

A converter is definately something not to skimp on. Truthfully now I feel I need a little more gear. Thinking about stepping up to some 3.73's and a Hotcam. It shouldn't be much more to tune in after the ZZ4 cam with 1.6 on the intake side and 1.52 on the exhaust. Should be dipping into the low 13's afterward.

 

So you have taken your car to the track?

 

Actually I think THAT is what he had. 3200. His Chevelle was not light at all. But def. lighter than stock because he had an aluminium crate engine in there.

 

Not yet, but I'm going by what the car used to run and the improvements from the mods. Before the H/C/I swap the car ran a 14.2 . I haven't ran it after the swap and tuning. Even then it's on a halfass tune. I know this isn't acurate but the last race I won the guy I ran against ran a 13.96 consistantly in the quarter and I beat him by 4 cars. I saw his time slips so I know he wasn't talking smack lol.

 

I'd like to see a low 13 second 305 TBI 1/4mi run.

 

One question is how much gas mileage do you want to lose?
The TBI's when running properly with their 2.73 gears are known to get near or over 30mpg highway. There are a few modifications that won't set you back too far in mpg, others will drop you e.g. 5mpg each (3.42 gears).
The swirl port heads are not as terrible as people say for mpg and low to midrange power. Top end power isn't great.
I have an LT1 used cam I was going to use in my TBI before I sold it, and I'll be putting it on the TGO for sale board soon (that's where I got it from).
Along with that I'd go with better exhaust. Cheap smog headers are almost non-existant, but you could find some takeoff 350 TPI exhaust manifolds and exhaust system, or as mentioned part of a pickup exhuast. That would give you over half the hp increase of a headers system dirt cheap.
S10 torq converters are cheap enough.
Personally I'd leave the rear gears for the mpg, but changing out to 3.xx's will give you the acceleration increase.
Intake manifold will give you only a little increase at the <300hp levels. I wouldn't bother to change it on a budget, or hood clearance issues and trans and throttle cables usually have to be all redone properly.
Open element is open to hot air coming in. Not the best way. Improve the cold air setup. On the cheap, maybe I'd put in like a 3/4" taller air filter. prob clear the hood ok, and it would still allow half cold air intake and half warm air but no restrictions, and easy to change back for smog (look, even if you are not worried about smog, will you ever move?! Going to school..after school job...sell the car...).
And as mentioned, screw in studs in the heads, and replaced valve guides, maybe minor port work, I think fast355 has detailed that in the past, he has gotten very good results on TBI's.
I'd guess for like $500 DIY you could drop 1 second or more off the 1/4mi with it. It would run with the 79 Z28 maybe out run it if it were stock (I had one of those with the 400sbc swap back in the day, it outran many unsuspecting cars). If you want bigger hp numbers, then a 350 with non-swirlport TBI heads is the starting point, on a budget or with a $$ budget both.
Also with the mods I suggested you could probably get away with stock computer programming, oh, bump up the initial timing on the mods list. That would save some $$ too.
I loved the stoplight acceleration and mpg of the 305 TBI with 2.73's and even still consider changing out my TPI 350 with 3.27gears for one again.

 

here we go on the open element vs. cold air induction debate again....

 

Truthfully I wouldn't even consider ANY kind of "log" manifold. The power gain would be negliable at best. When I switched over to 3:42's from the peg leg 2:73's my gas mileage actually got BETTER due to the fact I didn't need to put in as much throttle to get the car moving. For the The most out of an Open Element it needs a cowl of some sort. What I did when I had to cut a hole in my hood I used a scoop from a 84 turbo mustang and it works like a charm. As far as the S10 converter I have no basis to go on but honestly as I said before I wouldn't skimp out on this piece. Even a good 2400 from Edge will only run around 275.00 which is about 60 bucks more than a stock GM S10 converter.

 

IMO...Gears and a Converter are a MUST HAVE if you want to run. You can take a stock or near stock engine and get good gains from a converter and gears.

 

Yup two very critical pieces to the performance of a car

 

agreed,two of the best mods I've done so far lol

 

haha just curious. Like to see what others have done with that results.

I can dig it. Ill shoot you a PM



Oh and i second that converter + gears + EBL(love this damn thing) are almost must haves. (and forced induction)

 

I just installed a Nitrous kit on my Hemi Ram this afternoon. I have the 100 shot pill in it, just need to get the bottle filled, install my nitrous tune (-4* spark across the board at wide open throttle and 12:1 air/fuel ratio) and hook up the datalogging to my wideband and then it will be time to squeeze it. If that checks out, I will throw on the sticky drag radials bump the timing retard to 6* and up the jets to 150 and let her fly.

I am running high 13s @ 96 mph on the 20s that weigh 85 lbs each, mid 13s on drag radials and I am looking for a 11.9x pass with the stock internal 5.7 save for the cam and springs. I think in cooler weather with weight reduction the truck has it in it.

 

Yeah yeah now were talking. Just picked up my TBI kit. still need the fuel cell,pump,lines.

Will run a 100-125 shot, pulling -4* also, and think ill shoot for 13.1 to start out. Playing it safe, just got to be careful. Full stand alone system with a 2 gal fuel cell under the hood filled with 101 octane. Expecting to run 13s on my set up with 100-125 shot on this 305. Will be a real sleeper. We speak the same language

 

Definately on the same page and speaking the same language. I am using the stock fuel system, it has been tested good to over 700 HP on the SRT10 trucks running superchargers and nitrous. 2006 SRT10 has the same fuel pump and it operates at 58 PSI, plenty of fuel.

This is motor on 20s, roughly half throttle through the first half of first. WOT or brake stalling results in instant tire smoke. If traction becomes a problem I will probably put my ~300 lbs Leer camper shell on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlDqoeayqBI

This is on the 20s.


This is on the 17s and drag radials


The old G-van has gone 13.80s on motor @ 99 mph.

 

that truck on 17's cracks me up

 

Is this the Camaro site or the Dodge site? Damg, I always get those two mixted up. What does any of this have to do with the OP's Build Evaluquestion?

 

he was giving an example into the fuel pressure in question

 

But the pictures and nitrus comment were not. The nitrus on the truck, really?

 

nitrous has an 'o' in it. he was just commenting on how different variables can change the performance of a vehicle, anyways lets stop arguing

 

This. I know I haven't posted in a while, but I've been checking back and I'm pretty pleased and thankful for a lot of the info you guys have given me. I'll be PMing a few people about stuff as well.

And I agree, that truck does look hilarious on the 17's (no objection to you posting it in this thread)

Edit: Undercover, if you were asking me if I've taken it to the track, then the answer would be no. I don't have my license yet (thank my parents for getting my permit so late, therefore keeping another teenager off the streets....) but I'll take it to the drag strip sometime after January to get a baseline.

 

nothing wrong with nitrous on a truck. 175 shot rocks
how about full leather interior, power, a/c and 5100 pounds. also passed inspection and ran 12.79@108.
1/2 ton with a denali front clip and a 4l80e swap.

 

my freinds was running mid 9 with a 250 shot on a swapped out 427 lsx in his avalanche

 

gotta luv those 427's.

 

oh yes you dooo, seeing that thing scoot down the track without hesitation even on the monster tires he runs on it, its just a great sight

 

A Texan backs up the pickup truck. Whaaaahhh!?.
I'm just messing though. It's not a bad thing. That is a nice denali man. or silverato. I'm just saying the jacked up trucks or Dodge Rams are almost ALWAYS drivin by overagressive D!CKS. That is a cool truck though. So I can tell you are not why we are # 144 out of 188 Friendly driver cities.

Also, are we talking about old L88 Aluminium block 427s or Newer LS7 Small block 427s? Both are Kick A$$. Just curious.

 

i take slight offense to the lifted truck drivers drive like dicks, im in the process of collecting stuff for a SAS swap for mine and i never drive like a dick, and were are talking ls7 427's

 

hey dont pick on truck people. and dont call people who drive trucks dicks. we can and will run over you.

on another note its usually young punks that **** people off on the roads in third gens and trucks.
i own trucks and my daddy doesnt pay for my car. i pay my own way. and i have prolly been driving since before you were born.

 

i still wish i was the kid who had everything handed to him

 

Calm down guys! I'm sure it's just a demographic thing. I will say that around here most people that drive huge trucks and large diesels are absolutely *&$#hats. They'll drive by people stuck on the side of the road and shift down a gear or 2 and pour smoke all over them. I've seen it happen 3 times this week alone. Buuut I'm not saying that you guys are like that, or your friends, co workers, mistresses, etc

On another note you can have a set of 350 vortec heads milled down to help the CR so they'd be useable on your 305. I had mine milled down but I'm using them on a 350 block so I'll have higher compression.

 

then hell need a new intake, if you do go that route buy the carbed vortec intake mani and buy the really inexpseive tbi adapter.

 

I can see this thread getting locked. Haha. But seriously. I never really saw the purpose in souping up a truck. but again it is your truck so you can do as you please

 

That's true, I forgot about the severe budget constraints lol.

Also I don't see any problems with souping up a truck, what's the difference between a truck and a car, really?

 

put the same money into a car and be faster. trucks were made for hauling

 

I dont want to get this thread locked so let me just clarify what I was trying to say. I wasn't stating that anyone who drives a truck a a complete A Hole. I am just saying I have seen way to many guys who are total Dcks and drive those trucks. It's not that trucks attract only those types of people, it's just that those types of people are attracted to these trucks. I have litteraly been run off the road almost been killed by these guys on more than one ocation. One guy hit the gas and tryed to kill my parents because they were legaly crossing the road, and he was not drunk. I meant no offence, but it is still true what I said.

Don't comment on this post, I dont want to get this locked, if you take offence or have an issue with anything I have said, PM me. I don't want to come of as a self richeous jerk.

Now, This guy's 305 build plan is pretty solid considering he's only 16 and doesn't even have his licence yet. I applaud him for that. And you guys have pretty much suggested everything else, But There's alot of info that has been opionated and scatterd, so I like idea of starting a 305 TBI specific thread where people list 10 things they thought were most helpfull to them and 10 things they thought were a waste of time or unhelpfull.

 

the reason for building a truck like that. it is what i owned. and when was the last time you got beat by a truck? does your tbi run 12's? no. no problem on comments. leave the texan deal and dicks out of it and you will be fine. i am 42 and have built many of vehicles. from trucks to cars and beyond. heck even a souped up gsxr1000. i love my 3rd gen dearly. to me the body style reinds me of a stealth jet. and i love my lil tbi. but it will be replaced with an ls1 next year.

he needs to mod on a budget. tbi mods and matched injectors. then do what he can on the exhaust. open element. and then get a chip burned for it for starters. then save and move on from there.

 

I'll pm you. Also yah, he should post a budget.

 

Wow, didn't know that my current project would stir up so much controversy.

The conversation was about adding power on a budget and I brought up nitrous. I spent less than $700.00 and picked up nearly a full second at the track and 9 mph.

I took my nitrous'd Ram to Ennis for the Texas Muscle Car Club Challenge race on Sunday. Went 14.17 @ 95.95 (2.13s 60')at 5,330 lbs on the 20s on motor. But what I was getting at is bang for the buck, its hard to beat nitrous. A 75 hp (most are measured at the wheels) wet shot will be safe on just about any engine and give you gains of close to a second. When you consider that you would need to add heads, headers, cam, torque converter, gears etc to get the same performance it really makes you think about it.

I squeezed the button on the 75 hp pills that were in the truck and on the street tires after I hooked (2.24s 60') managed to pull out a 13.38 @ 104.45. That is a 75 shot on a fairly cheap Nitrous Express setup. I paid ~$200.00 to get a good progressive controller from Harris Speedworks, but need to delay the shot somewhat more for street tires. I could actually dial it in to work very well on street tires if I had the patients to do it.

The beauty of the whole thing is you cannot even tell the truck has nitrous unless you look hard for it.

 

I still haul with my truck and tow things as well. The modifications I have made actually make it much easier to do that and gave it better fuel economy, especially under a load.

Its also fun to wipe the smirk off someones face in a 4-door truck or a fullsize van.

There is just something impressive about a 5,500 lbs truck that can run low 14s on street rubber with only 345 cid under the hood, pull a trailer weighing 7,000 lbs without even noticing it power wise, while getting 14 mpg @ 60 mph and can be driven everywhere unloaded averaging 17-20 mpg. Its just that much more impressive to me that an extra $700.00 put it deep into the 13s on street tires. Whats even more impressive is it handles better than most cars I have driven and with massive 4 wheel disc brakes with rear abs, stops better than most modern sedans.

 

I did not mean to give you **** Fast.

I decided to go the heads, cam route and I wish I would have just bought the nitrous kit instead. since I have forged pistons I could run 100 shot no problem or more. But I figured since its my daily, I dont wanna risk blowing her up cause then I am car less. Maybe next year I will run the n20

 

Fast, I will definitely admit that it's great you've got your truck running that, well, fast.

I got a lot of good info and pretty much all of my questions were answered, so if this thread got closed I'd be OK with that... Seriously, it seems like people have a tendency to act like a bunch of kindergartners on here (ex, this one and skelitor's thread).

So to get this thread back on track...
Here's a list of stuff I'm going to take care of as I get money in:

1. Headers, Chevy truck air cleaner modded for CAI and Ultimate TBI mods

2. Converter and Shift kit

3. LT1 Cam and ported heads

Would a ported stock 350 non-vortec intake manifold work any better? I can imagine that it would at least measure up to the Edelbrock TBI manifold.

EDIT: Remembered you guys have been wanting to know my budget, so here it is: $1000

 

Simply because I don't feel like creating a new thread in the exhaust forum, has anybody had any experience with Edelbrock headers? They seem to be pretty available but I've searched and haven't found much info on them

 

i havent used the edlbrock header on a camaro but i have on other vehicles and they worked great. i think it all boils down to buying a good pair and going with it. but there are cheaper versions available. i would go to a good name brand on the exhaust and build it for the future.

 

i dont know about the edelbrock headers but i got the hooker 2460's and im completely happy with them, somewhat easy install, hardest part was getting old y-pipe bolts off. though you may need to evaluate the order of your parts list, 1. Headers, Chevy truck air cleaner modded for CAI and Ultimate TBI mods

2. Converter and Shift kit

3. LT1 Cam and ported heads

the first two are good but cam and heads aren't as simple because if you dont tune it your not gonna have it runnin right. All ive done so far to mine is open element air filter, shorty headers cat delete, smog pump delete, and a/c delete. Next i'll be doing a shift kit to compliment my hurst shifter, aluminum driveshaft, 3.23 rear gears, subframe conecters and once thats all said and done then i will be getting into tuneing to upgrade heads and cam, and in the mean time cleaning up the engine bay.

 

Yeah I'm definitely not going to cheap out on the exhaust, especially when I know I can net some of my best gains from it. Speaking of which, I went to measure my exhaust again (first time I used my eyes and a hard ruler) and now with a piece of paper and simple geometry I've found that I'm right back to square one.. 2.25 inches -_________-

BUT! Still on the bright side, it looks like the transmission has been shifting at 2,000 consistently (and it's not a busted converter, shifts are solid as a rock and smooth as butter).

And I hear you bigreed, but for now I have to work around the emissions BS. If I get into the Naval Academy I'll just tag it as historic and take it all out since I'll only be driving it about 5-6 weeks out of the year.

Birthday's coming up this month so I'll see what I can get... I'm thinking some used headers. The Y-pipe will probably be the hardest thing to find, though

 

if you have forged pistons and want to run N2O go for it. i have run a 175 shot on stock hypereutectic pistons with no problems ( AS LONG AS THE CORRECT FUEL AND NITROUS LEVELS ARE USED). now when i ran mine it was ecm assisted. you are able to tune your car so you will have some more control. and also i ran 32* timing on and off N2O. but that was about 8 hours on a dyno with tuning.