It might help that I have long skinny arms and fingers. Any ideas on cleaning up the accessory brackets, I don't think the pressure washer will get that new cast look?

Oh on that note, do not try to pressure wash your condenser. It took an hour with a pick and a radiator comb to straighten my fins back out, lol

 

I just used the auto zone brand degreaser on the brackets. Soak, scrub, rinse repeat. Be careful though, it will trash the tensioner pulley bearing.

 

I have a bearing in mine that rattles sometimes, haven't diagnosed if it is the tensioner or idler.

 

Well. Update

 

Well there is no idler so it has to be the tensioner, lol. I found that out scrubbing the serpentine brackets.

I got the AC bracket pretty clean but the alt/PS one still has some funk I can't get to due to the PS pump. I got it really clean other than behind the pump so I am going to rock it. I got the starter cleaned up, the inspection cover cleaned up and the valve covers are soaking in oven cleaner to be finished tomorrow. All pulleys are painted and installed as well as the serpentine set up. The transmission is detached from the old motor and sitting in the bed of my truck ready to go to the builder along with my trans go shift kit.

I need to work on a start up tune but I think I will get the car back together first. EGR will be deleted and I already have the correct belt to eliminate the smog pump. The motor should look a lot cleaner without those components taking up real estate.

I have thought again about moving the fpr to the return line on the fuel rail. I think this is a better location and less of a squeeze.

 

Good progress. Dude take my advice. While the motor is out run new battery positive/ground cables. And replace the purple starter wire.

Then upgrade the starter to the LT1 starter and the CS140 alternator to the CS144. You'll thank me later.

 

If you are using TBI fuel pod with block off plate (spring and diaphragm were removed) the aftermarket FPR MUST be on the return path.

//RF

 

I meant on the frame rail on the return side.

 

Really. I would not have suspected that. Seems counter-intuitive.

 

If you think about it, it will make sense. The regulator blocks off fuel from returning to the tank, less fuel being let by will raise the pressure in front of the regulator.

 

LT1 Starter! CS144!

 

Lol! But I don't have charging or starting problems, I would just be doing it for the sake of doing it.

 

Both are great upgrades either way. LT1 cranks soo much faster and will help with your new header heat.

CS144 because who doesn't need more juice?

 

Today I got the valve covers and water neck cleaned up and painted. Oven cleaner did an awesome job on the valve covers and the water neck I just used a brass brush and degreaser. They are installed with a Mr Gasket 180 degree thremostat and new Mr Gasket gaskets.

I also got all of the misc sensors moved over to the new motor as well as the starter. The fan switch and the knock sensor stayed on the old motor because I am using new/different ones on the new motor. The temp sensor in the intake was a smaller size than the port in the Edelbrock intake but I found a bushing in my misc junk to adapt it. I had to move over the oil filter adapter, water jacket clean out plug and oil plug behind the distributor. I need to dig up one more block off plug for the intake manifold. I have one water port that does not have a block off right now.

Lastly I dropped my trans off at the builder. It is my hold up at the moment, Significant forward progress will begin when I get it back. So far I am happy with the progress but I do fear I am running out of time.

 

Okay, I am trying to piece together a bin with vortec timing tables but the problem I am having is my factory bin starts at 30 kpa and the vortec tables start at 15 kpa. How can I reconcile this?

 

I would just start with the lowest kpa EBL uses and transfer the data from that point on

 

If it is a vortec truck timing table I would not waste my time. I put a substantial chunk more timing in my Express van and it woke up, ALOT.

 

It is a starting point, I have tbi timing tables in it at the moment.

 

Start with the B-Car LT1, will be closer to what you will want.

 

Do you have that file, would you be willing to email it to me? Thanks Fast

 

Okay, found a LT1 table online and adapted it to mine. The timing is way more than what the tbi had. Does this look right?



What controls the timing above 3600 RPM?

 

Well first you aren't using the correct XDF file in tuner pro. You need to use the EBL xdf file. If your motor is anything like mine, then it will not like that much timing.

 

I am not using ebl

 

Right. My fault haha. Still looks like a lot of timing. I would expect knock. Might be able to alleviate it with premium fuel and cooler ambient temps.

 

I am also using a LT4 hot cam. Maybe I should start with the LT4 table?

 

I would start with the LT1 table and go from there. Run it real easy and look for knock. Adjust accordingly.

Hows the swap

 

The swap is waiting for the transmission to come back from the builder. Hopefully this evening!

 

Should have built it yourself! Haha just kidding. When do you plan on wrapping it up? Got the tune ready?

 

I have the tune as prepared as I can at the moment. I am getting some help in the DIY Prom forum. Trans should be done tomorrow and I will try to drop it in after work and button up the little stuff that is remaining.

 

Man that's a lot of timing from 2200-3600

 

I think that was the Fbody table, here is the Bbody that I am using instead:



Still a lot of timing but I guess vortec heads like it.

 

Not mine haha. However some like more than others.

 

ZZZzzzz..... g'night

 

Nice! And nope. You dont get to just post a pic with no details. Report now. Haha

 

Haha, it is in. It is bolted down and so is the transmission. Everything else needs buttoned up.

I picked up the trans about 6 this evening and stopped by the store for fluids and brought some supper home. I married the trans and motor around 8 and completed that by 10ish. I had to do a lot of shuffling in the garage to fit everything.

Once I started going in, it went together pretty quickly. I am so glad I picked up that load leveler, makes it way easier. Tomorrow I am going to get the driveshaft in and the electrical hooked up. Hopefully I can get the headers in also.

 

Spaceboy1980

Did you put a quart of MD3 into torque converter?
When you inserted torque converter into trany did you hear multiple clicks as torque converter engaged into pump?
Do you have about .080" - .125" gap between torque converter flange and flexplate??

Just checking....

 

The builder installed the converter, he said it would be difficult due to him using a Teflon bushing I think it was so he did it. I did not check the gap to the flexplate, I just installed the bolts and torqued them to book spec in three increments using blue thread locker. The inspection cover I snugged up until the plastic was just beginning to deform.

 

Well. Has it fired yet?

 

Nope, not yet. I got a lot done today with a late start. I woke up with a killer headache and said nope, took some asprin and went back to bed, lol.

Anyway, what I have left to do:

Hook up grounds to the back of the heads
Purchase and install a nipple for the header hose
Purchase and install studs for the throttle body for the cruise and throttle hook ups
Wire in the heated O2 sensor
Install the Y-pipe
Plugs, cap and wires
Oil and filter
zip tie wires away from the headers (I really wish I could have used the manifolds
fill the cooling system
figure out the braces going from the alt and ac to the exhaust bolts
burn new prom and install
Install fpr
purchase and install a couple of vacuum Ts
Install ducting to the aircleaner

Then I think I will be able to start it and finish filling the trans.

The hood shuts! It has plenty of clearance, I probably could have went with an aluminum tbi adapter instead of the thinner plate style. New engine pic:

 

Looking good. Get rid of that CS130! Whats the ETA to start it up? Tomorrow?

 

It is always a good idea to make to do-check list. This way you do not forget simple stuff that always seem to get you later on. Avoiding - oh sh*^ moment before it happens!

//RF

 

 

I am getting to have this fun too! Went to look at and bought a very clean 99 C1500 suburban with 165k and a rod knocking 5.7 Vortec with a fresh pair of reman heads for $850 on friday morning. Had it towed 22 miles for $125. Suburban arrived to the shop at 7:30 pm friday and after dropping a battery into it drove into the shop under its own power albeit sounded like it might throw a rod any second. Immediately my brother and I went to work. Engine was sitting on the stand, stripped to the shortblock by 10:00 pm. Dug the "new" engine out of hiding we had picked up from a 1-ton work van that had blown intake gaskets. It was dressed in TBI heads and had a pathetic stock L31 cam in it. Got to work on it today some. Put a "705" 202/207* @ .050 LT1 F-car cam in it, single roller timing chain 4* advanced, bolted the reman vortecs heads on with a .016" rubber embossed steel shim head gasket and buttoned it up with the ported lower intake and mfi spider from the express. Put a spare 4.3 S10 converter into it and dropped it in this afternoon. All we have left is to get all the accessories installed, source and replace the radiator and heater hoses, fuel line o'rings, fuel filter, pcv, air cleaner, plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Have to wait until the dealer opens on monday. Its getting all AC Delco or Delphi parts there. Poor engine probably has a whole tube of silicone sealer on the various gasket. Got tired of them leaking in stupid places like where the dipstick and timing cover meet the block, valve covers, oil pan, and valve cover bolts. Its all siliconed up and I hope I finally have an engine that doesn't seep oil.

 

Easy on the pathetic cam talk haha. Some of us run that cam with pride! Fast make a thread! With pix.


Well space! Hows it run? Timed yet?

 

Not yet. I just got all the wiring tidied up and off the headers. I don't think the neighbors would be too keen on me starting up a open headered car at 2 am, lol.

I have to warm it up and recheck fluids and I think an exhaust shop is going to have to do the y pipe, it is trying to feed through the cat.

 

Delete the cat haha. Did you print before cranking? Well update the to do list

 

Here is what is left

Install the Y-pipe
Burp the cooling system
figure out the braces going from the alt and ac to the exhaust bolts
burn new prom and install
Finish filling the trans once warmed up
Retighten header bolts

I talked to the exhaust shop today, once I am comfortable with it, I can cruise it up there and they will hook it up.

Tell me, does she look factory other than the K&N sticker that was on it when I got the car?

 

Clean with a wire wheel and then sand with progressively finer paper to get semi polished look and spray with a clear coat.

 

Looks pretty good other than that hideous CS130! Haha Dude EBL is so much easier to work with.

Does the AC system work? I also need to take mine to an exhaust shop. I have a noticeable exhaust leak at the collector. From a small gap between the collector gasket and y pipe.

 

Looks stock to me mostly...