Car will idle fine in driveway and operate at WOT with no problems. Out on road it will bog down when attempting a WOT run.
Engine codes as follows: 23 - IAT/MAT
42 - EST
43 - KNOCK SENSOR
44 - LEAN EXHAUST

Car overheated with a dead water pump last week. Replaced with new one. New spark plugs installed.
New inline fuel filter. Old one was installed in Feb of this year. Recently replaced fan temp switch on pass side head.
Spliced in new lead for FTS, twisted line together and used shrink tubing for seal. Applied flame to shrink tubing while pin was
inserted in temp sensor. Excessive heat may have affected a relay somewhere. Now temp gauge will not respond. Don't think this is
connected to bogging issue. Just the only things I have done recently. Would replacing the fuel pump pick up strainer be a logical
next step. Not hard to do as the back deck has been cut open for easy access.

 

Clear the codes, drive it, see what comes back.

Follow the official service manual procedure for fixing each code.

How old are the cap 'n' rotor, plug wires, etc? Timing set properly?



How does heating shrink tubing "affect a relay somewhere"? The wires got hotter when you soldered them.

 

Timing is spot on at 4 deg BTDC. Plug wires are fine with no burn-throughs or arcing. Just changed the spark plugs and inspected wires. Old plugs looked normal. Cap and rotor look fine. Gonna pull fuel pump and change out filter. The car had sat for 9 years before I purchased it and the gas tank looked like it was holding pepsi and smelled worse. Cleaned out tank as best possible with some scum not coming off.
Not sure why the temp gauge is not responding, but thought that heat during shrinking of tubing might have transferred down line and tripped or melted something elsewhere.

 

**UPDATE** Problem solved. It was the filter on the fuel pump. When I changed out the inline filter that should have been the clue. It was full of rusty colored junk. I have an access door that is cut through the top deck on the rear above the gas tank. (I don't know why this wasn't a GM standard approach. Our postal vehicles have the same cut outs.) Anyhoo, I pulled out the fuel hanger, replaced the filter and now I have all the power that I should have. I also replaced the TBI filters too. So the car wasn't bogging down as much as it was starving for gas.

 

The floorpan of the vehicle doesn't have an access hole because the access hole has to be re-sealed FUEL-TIGHT and STRONG after you're done working on the tank.

The point being that you don't want a ruptured gas tank to push fuel into the passenger compartment in a collision.

Ford's Pinto had the fuel tank open to the passenger compartment in this same way, you know about people bar-b-queing to death when Pintos got hit from behind.

 

Rgr. My parents used to have one in the 70's. It was an okay car for us. Sold it after a few years. So far the access panel has been screwed down tight. Hope fully I don't get slammed in the rear end anytime soon.