Ucantcme57

I just swaped motors, I went from 350 (which spun a bearing) to a 86 Iroc 305.. Now that I haved done the switch. When I start the car I have a bad vibration. So I drive the Car to Work, which is like 30 miles from home. Once I get to work. And I try and leave the Car will start, but not stay started when I put it in gear. Any Ideas of what the problem might be? I have put in a new dist., cap, rotor, plugs, wires, IAC,TPS.. Need to know what else I should check...

Kevin

JPrevost

Adjust your base timing. Sounds like either it's running really rich and/or a timing issue.

Ucantcme57

I have the timing set at about 4 degrees advanced, I also should mention that I have a MSD 6AL box, also running with all the other componets. Should I go higher? When I hook up the electronic timing advance or whatever it's called, the TDC line goes from the four degrees advanced to almost straight up and down beyond the timing marks(timing guage is at like 2:00 or 3:00, and when the electronic advance is hooked up the TDC line goes to 12 o'clock). Is this where the computer would like the timing to be set at?

JPrevost

I'm not good with time, probably because my timing tape is off by so much that I just guess all the time .
The ecm will run around 20 degrees advanced when at idle and in gear. There is a time where the "shock" of being put into gear might adjust timing but I can't verify that unless I look at some data logged from a faster aldl data stream...hmm...I have my dad's 95 suburban logged with diacom, I'll have to take a look.
Anyways, won't have time to do that until tomorrow. Does the car stall in gear when you have the tan wire unplugged? If so, adjust the base timing with the wire unplugged, put it in and out of gear then let it sit for a while and do a cold startup. If it's really hard to start then probably too much base advance. Find a happy middle ground then plug ecm in. If it only stalls when ecm is hookedup then you definatly have something out of wack, either running too lean or something else.
Hope this helps, happened to me a few times.

gmanuel

Once the engine has cooled down can you start and drive the car? Also do you have an auto? If you have answered yes to both then I would suggest that your torque converter lockup is not disengaging. there is a wire on the brake switch that supplies power to the torque converter. Remove it and drive the car. If the stalling quits then you have found your problem.