I have been having a few problems recently with cold starts as though a sensor is crapping out on me or died, especially when the engine has been sitting for a log time and is completely cooled, it runs like crap and jerks like it is missing a piston and blows smoke and as soon as it goes into closed loop it runs smooth and fine, and also I am having a problem with hesitation and backfiring though the intake when I try to push it from idle up to 2000 rpm but after that it does great. I seem to be rich like if you look at the plugs they are completely black but has the characteristics of being lean when I drive it and if I drop it even more the fp, it gets worse. Yes the timing is good, I backed all the way back down and every were inbetween and farther back the worse. But if someone could just look at the data I have and review it or something and tell me whets wrong with it I would greatly appreciate it. i have a few of them idle, driving, and bringing it up to 5k. the one i attached it it idling in drive

 

Dude, look at your BLMs, they're all reading 108. Unplug your battery for a while (30 seconds) to clear the memory of the ecm and then try again. Also notice that you've got LOTS of problems. Your power steering switch is always on. You've got low map error flag but the map sensor shows 50kpa so I don't know what that's about. Then you've got the RICH error flag pegged. IAT (intake air temp) high error flag! Your TPS sensor is throwing an error flag also. TPS too high. You've got a bunch of other stuff wrong like the Flood clear mode being enabled. You're TPS sensor position should never be a negative number. There is something wrong. When you're at idle and the car is off, put the key into the on position and record a short sample of data where you open the throttle slowely and close it. Then repost that data. I also notice that you're having a low battery voltage flag being set but that also doesn't make any sence.

 

see well 2 days ago a lot of my electrical system died on me i dont know why that is prolly a reason for a lot of it, my wipers dot work when the ligts are on and my blinker light is on when my lights are on. i have no clue i checked the fuses and all good i need to look in to that but that is prolly the cause for te battery stuff.

 

here is the tps

 

here is it idling in drive again after i cleared every thing by reseting the battery

 

Borrowing the laptop from someone and I gota give it back sometime I need help!

 

Check the wiring on your TPS sensor. That shouldn't be negative a negative number. On that last log, is the car warmed up? I think your CTS is crapped. My dad's truck did the same thing last week. It thought the coolant was 76° so it ran like absolute dog-**** 'til he stuck in a $12 CTS and it was like new again. Man, I hope your ECM is okay. You said you had some electrical problems? I thought you switched to a carb already? hehe. I bet you want to right now, eh? I'll be in Ft.Walton Saturday or Sunday. PM me if you want to get together and try n figure something out.

 

Well, the TPS actually looks fairly normal.. JP, remember the translated output is changable within winaldl.. -1% is probably within .54-.56 volts. However, I would actually bust out a multimeter and find out for sure. Trust the DMM more than a configurable program...
You're doing all this data testing with the AC on max? uhh... *shrug*
Mode word AF1: Low battery (Idle Air Control Inhibited) is TRIPPED. This would be a problem. Is your battery or alternator toast? err.. no.. alternator's fine looking at battery voltage output... IAC valve toast?
The clear flood flag is also tripped. Highly abnormal.
Look at the ALDL mode... switching between normal and linkup constantly.. suggestive of short maybe?
Looking at your O2 sensor I really think mine's toast now.. yours is at least consistant..
ok.. uhm SENSOR: IAC.. zeros?.. and one 1?... ..... I think your ecu might be toast.. or you've got that little screw for minimum throttle opening set way wrong...
And your promids don't exist.. no idea on that one..
Check your IAC wiring while you're looking at the TPS...

 

Well I found out what the problem was with all the lights and stuff some how the ground wire that is next to the evap canister was broken so I just put it back up and it works great now, I don’t really think it would really cause any problem what so ever messing up the winaldl other than the low bat thing and you thinking my bat or alt is toast. My tps is alittle high I around.56 or .57. And when I did the second test it was not fully warmed up I guess it was about 130-140 somewhere by guesstamation of the gauge. What is the iac suppostobe at? I would not be surprised if my ECM is toast I am waiting for a new one but it has been too long over a month so I don’t know. And from what I can tell the iac is good and I did not have to cut those wires during the swap.

 

This one is after I fixed my electrical problem and got help from jza, we were able to get the idle considerably lower and over all little better then it was, we also looked at the knock sensor and could not get a knock from it, we also tried to hit next to it with a wrench and tap on it but still nothing. Here is one that I raised the rpms a little going down the road.

 

and here is one that i took when i was doing a cold start when it was sitting over night intill it was fully warmed up

 

sorry here is the one i was tring to send before, this one i took it to just 3900 and the other was just driving