Parked for 4 years, Information Please
Parked for 4 years, Information Please
Hi All,
Im a new poster but long time reader.
My situation is this:
Close to where i live is a 1986 Trans Am. It has the WS6 handling Package, w/ 16x8 rims and black spoiler. It is a TPI 305, A4. T-tops, AC, power options, leather wheel, etc... It is the somewhat rare(so ive read) Metallic Blue(not sure of the name). 167,000 kms.
It is sitting in the backyard of the owner on blocks(tires still on though). It has been there for approx. 4 years so i was told.
It was driven by the man of the house for a few years before he had a baby and needed a babyseat. I beleive he is the 2nd owner.
What i have seen wrong w/ it:
1) The front bumper cover needs to be replaced or repaired, there is a small chunk missing just to the left of center. The wife decided to drive it in the winter once and grazed a snowbank..
2)Something to do w/ the fuel pump. Was told that he hooked up a bypass so from what i saw, it is the fuel pump relay.
3)Small rip in drivers side seat. Not a concern.
4)Grid slightly peeling on drivers side taillight.
5)Slight amount of rust in rear wheel wells.
6)Dead battery. Not a concern because i have an extra to replace it.
The paint shines like it was new, and the interior is mint except for the small rip in the seat. The tranny was good at time of parking.
Now my main concern is that its been sitting for 4 years.I do not know if he added fuel stabilizer at the time of parking nor do i know if he started it anytime in between. Under the hood , from an exterior standpoint everything looks ok , no rust, etc. Are the cylinders going to be totally rusted out? Is this thing going to run? Rebuild? What else should i know about it since its been sitting so long? And also what information can you give me about the other items i noticed?
I drive by this car everyday, it is too nice of a car to just let die, but if its going to be too much of a problem i might have to reluctantly let it go.
Thanks for your help
Im a new poster but long time reader.
My situation is this:
Close to where i live is a 1986 Trans Am. It has the WS6 handling Package, w/ 16x8 rims and black spoiler. It is a TPI 305, A4. T-tops, AC, power options, leather wheel, etc... It is the somewhat rare(so ive read) Metallic Blue(not sure of the name). 167,000 kms.
It is sitting in the backyard of the owner on blocks(tires still on though). It has been there for approx. 4 years so i was told.
It was driven by the man of the house for a few years before he had a baby and needed a babyseat. I beleive he is the 2nd owner.
What i have seen wrong w/ it:
1) The front bumper cover needs to be replaced or repaired, there is a small chunk missing just to the left of center. The wife decided to drive it in the winter once and grazed a snowbank..
2)Something to do w/ the fuel pump. Was told that he hooked up a bypass so from what i saw, it is the fuel pump relay.
3)Small rip in drivers side seat. Not a concern.
4)Grid slightly peeling on drivers side taillight.
5)Slight amount of rust in rear wheel wells.
6)Dead battery. Not a concern because i have an extra to replace it.
The paint shines like it was new, and the interior is mint except for the small rip in the seat. The tranny was good at time of parking.
Now my main concern is that its been sitting for 4 years.I do not know if he added fuel stabilizer at the time of parking nor do i know if he started it anytime in between. Under the hood , from an exterior standpoint everything looks ok , no rust, etc. Are the cylinders going to be totally rusted out? Is this thing going to run? Rebuild? What else should i know about it since its been sitting so long? And also what information can you give me about the other items i noticed?
I drive by this car everyday, it is too nice of a car to just let die, but if its going to be too much of a problem i might have to reluctantly let it go.
Thanks for your help
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Well, anytime a car sits that long, there are things that will probably go wrong.
When I got my '76 TA it was sitting for at least that long. My Dad put a new battery in it and it started right up, not sure if new gas was put in.
Of course that's when cars were built to last, the only problem I had out of the car was a power steering line leak. Most reliable car I ever had.
When I got my '76 TA it was sitting for at least that long. My Dad put a new battery in it and it started right up, not sure if new gas was put in.
Of course that's when cars were built to last, the only problem I had out of the car was a power steering line leak. Most reliable car I ever had.
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: New Mexico
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: peanut cam LB9
Transmission: 700R4
My 64 Chevelle sat for 7 years before I started driving it. Has the car been started yet? If not I would pull the spark plugs and use like an old school oil can and put a small amount of oil into each cylinder. How much fuel is in the car? I would also add some heet (water remover) or some fuel system cleaner with a water remover. When you do get it running I would change the oil baby it for the first 100 miles to let everything get all run in, and let all the seals and gaskets swell back up. Also be sure to change out all the fluids in the car. This is basically what my dad and I did for the Chevelle before I started driving it. Hope this helps.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Jersey
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: none!
Transmission: T-5
Burning off old gas is not really a great thing to do... I always advise people to drain the gas tank and put in new fuel with a vehicle that's been sitting. With a carb'd car, you could prime the carb with some fresh 93 octane, but I don't know what to do with the TPI. Just try to get as much of the old gas out of the system as you can.
As Mark said, something's bound to be wrong with it, but if the price is right, it's probably worth the trouble.
As Mark said, something's bound to be wrong with it, but if the price is right, it's probably worth the trouble.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 3
From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Check that rust out really good. A little surface rust could be alot more. As far as running, 4 years isn't that bad. If it ran before it was put on blocks, it should run now. Put a battery in it and see how much fuel is in the tank. If it's about empty, fill it up and try to start it. A little oil in the spark plug hole is usually a good idea. While the plugs are out, replace them.
I don't know about the babyseat/carseat thing. My daughter has rode in my 82 many times since she was born(now 1.5 years old). Carseats/babyseats fit just fine.
I don't know about the babyseat/carseat thing. My daughter has rode in my 82 many times since she was born(now 1.5 years old). Carseats/babyseats fit just fine.
Señor,
I would not be afraid of the fuel condition, battery, fuel pump, or transmission. I would look very closely at the body corrosion, as 82Camaro has advised. This "superficial" rust could go a lot deeper. If you are wiling to deal with what you find, the rest can be addressed easily.
You'll need a new or fresh battery, fresh spark plugs, fresh fuel (loaded with alcohol), and miscellaneous fluids to top off the reservoirs.
Expect smoke on startup. You can remove the plugs if you wish, but that can be a lot of work with the car on blocks. Incidentally, DON'T get under the car while it is sitting on blocks - they are not jack stands (or are they?). Instead of removing the plugs, remove the intake air bellows from the throttle body, open the throttle fully, and fog the plenum with a spray fogging oil (made for storing engine). Disable the ignition and crank the engine extensively to distribute oil. (Just monitor the starter motor temperature.)
Either way, you'll get smoke on startup.
Once you start it, let it run for about a minute, keepng the RPMs low. Shut it off and look for leaks, heating, check fluids for contamination. If everything is good, restart and let the engine and transmission warm up, again keeping the RPMs low.
While waiting, watch the dash instruments, like oil pressure and temperature. Try all the accessories, wipers/washer, heat/A-C, rear deck release, radio/antenna, headlight motors, horn, power mirrors/seats, 'T' Top latches, etc.
When the engine has warmed a bit, check the transmission fluid level, then operate the trans through the ranges with your foot on the brake. Slowly release the brake in DRIVE to allow the axle to work a little. Stop the rear axle, then try it in REVERSE as well. Watch the speedo for operation and listen to the axle and trans. Try the power steering lock-to-lock. Anything major should reveal itself. After getting it warm, shut it off and jump the ALDL with the paper clip you just happen to have with you and turn the ignition to RUN. This will not only reveal any codes but will test the electric cooling fan as well.
If everything is good, offer him fifty bucks. J/K, but shoot low - whatever you can live with without feeling guilty. Maximize the things you find wrong, and don't appear to be too excited. You WILL find other things wrong with it in time, and you already know of some of them. You also need to remember that you will spend $200 (Cdn) in fluids, filters, belts, hoses, and probably other parts just to get it roadworthy, and you still know nothing about how the car drives, steers, and stops.
After all of that....
If/when you aquire it, expect to change all fluids right away - oil, transmission, coolant, rear axle, power steering, brake fluid. Expect to change the fuel filter at least once, and do it ASAP to prevent clogging injetors or damaging the FPR. Expect the brakes to eat the pads and the calipers to stick (if they're not already gone). Plan on a front wheel bearing repack, steering and suspension lubrication, a complete body lubrication (NOT just a WD-40 spray), nuisance elelctrical problems from oxidized relay contacts (fuel pump, MAF power and burnoff, antenna, starter interlock, TCC. etc.), sticky headlight motors and doors, a possible rotted cat converter - the list is sxtensive.
Let us know how it turns out.
I would not be afraid of the fuel condition, battery, fuel pump, or transmission. I would look very closely at the body corrosion, as 82Camaro has advised. This "superficial" rust could go a lot deeper. If you are wiling to deal with what you find, the rest can be addressed easily.
You'll need a new or fresh battery, fresh spark plugs, fresh fuel (loaded with alcohol), and miscellaneous fluids to top off the reservoirs.
Expect smoke on startup. You can remove the plugs if you wish, but that can be a lot of work with the car on blocks. Incidentally, DON'T get under the car while it is sitting on blocks - they are not jack stands (or are they?). Instead of removing the plugs, remove the intake air bellows from the throttle body, open the throttle fully, and fog the plenum with a spray fogging oil (made for storing engine). Disable the ignition and crank the engine extensively to distribute oil. (Just monitor the starter motor temperature.)
Either way, you'll get smoke on startup.
Once you start it, let it run for about a minute, keepng the RPMs low. Shut it off and look for leaks, heating, check fluids for contamination. If everything is good, restart and let the engine and transmission warm up, again keeping the RPMs low.
While waiting, watch the dash instruments, like oil pressure and temperature. Try all the accessories, wipers/washer, heat/A-C, rear deck release, radio/antenna, headlight motors, horn, power mirrors/seats, 'T' Top latches, etc.
When the engine has warmed a bit, check the transmission fluid level, then operate the trans through the ranges with your foot on the brake. Slowly release the brake in DRIVE to allow the axle to work a little. Stop the rear axle, then try it in REVERSE as well. Watch the speedo for operation and listen to the axle and trans. Try the power steering lock-to-lock. Anything major should reveal itself. After getting it warm, shut it off and jump the ALDL with the paper clip you just happen to have with you and turn the ignition to RUN. This will not only reveal any codes but will test the electric cooling fan as well.
If everything is good, offer him fifty bucks. J/K, but shoot low - whatever you can live with without feeling guilty. Maximize the things you find wrong, and don't appear to be too excited. You WILL find other things wrong with it in time, and you already know of some of them. You also need to remember that you will spend $200 (Cdn) in fluids, filters, belts, hoses, and probably other parts just to get it roadworthy, and you still know nothing about how the car drives, steers, and stops.
After all of that....
If/when you aquire it, expect to change all fluids right away - oil, transmission, coolant, rear axle, power steering, brake fluid. Expect to change the fuel filter at least once, and do it ASAP to prevent clogging injetors or damaging the FPR. Expect the brakes to eat the pads and the calipers to stick (if they're not already gone). Plan on a front wheel bearing repack, steering and suspension lubrication, a complete body lubrication (NOT just a WD-40 spray), nuisance elelctrical problems from oxidized relay contacts (fuel pump, MAF power and burnoff, antenna, starter interlock, TCC. etc.), sticky headlight motors and doors, a possible rotted cat converter - the list is sxtensive.
Let us know how it turns out.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,612
Likes: 0
From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
hmm, my only disagreement is after sitting that long the bearings will be pretty dry, it wouldnt hurt to pull the dizzy and use a oil primer and 1/2" drill to bring up pressure before cranking her over, Might take an hour to do but its better than wiping the mains or scuffing up a rod. just my .02. cheers, Bob
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engines get odd problems when they sit for years without being started. wouldn't be surprising if the motor started knocking or seized after you started driving it.
count on purchasing a new set of tires for the car too. the tires currently on the vehicle are not likely to be in good enough shape to safely drive on.
count on purchasing a new set of tires for the car too. the tires currently on the vehicle are not likely to be in good enough shape to safely drive on.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 1
From: Key West, Florida!
Car: 89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Engine: ZZ4TPI
Transmission: 700R4 TRIPP TRANNY
I agree with oiling the cylinders and then turning the motor over by hand. I had a 327 motor that set for a few years. When we put it into my 68 camaro we killed the oil rings after firing it up. Smoked like a pig after that.
I also like the idea of pre-oiling the motor. If it's TPI (I forgot) hold your foot to the floor and crank away. The car won't start that way.
I also like the idea of pre-oiling the motor. If it's TPI (I forgot) hold your foot to the floor and crank away. The car won't start that way.
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