Valve spring ???????'s
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 943
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From: Chesapeake Va
Valve spring ???????'s
I am probably going to put in a new comp. cam (xtream energy) it will be one of the milder grinds. my ?? is can I reuse my original valve springs or do I need to upgrade ???
I have a brand new "F" code 305 (G.M. # P305F86)
unknown heads (factory)
car is used as a daily driver
P.S. I am going to put on a performer intake (with EGR) at the same time.
I have a brand new "F" code 305 (G.M. # P305F86)
unknown heads (factory)
car is used as a daily driver
P.S. I am going to put on a performer intake (with EGR) at the same time.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Listen to ede, he is on the money.
Nobody, not Comp or anyone else that makes quality cams, will warranty their cam unless you put real valve springs on with the cam. The factory springs are made out of relatively few turns of fat wire, which tend to lose their (already inadequate) tension quickly even with the lame cam profiles they use. And, since the wire is fat, the tension is not linear; as the lift increases, the tension begins to rapidly increase as the springs near coil bind, which wipes out cam lobes. Aftermarket springs are made of more turns of thinner wire, which provide higher tension with more lift before they reach coil bind.
You'll probably want a XE262H cam & 812 lifters, and 981 springs with 742 retainers.
The cam will do almosy nothing for you by itself because the exhaust on that car is so bad. Get rid of the manifolds and Y-pipe, and replace them with something that doesn't fit your LG4. Anything that fits LG4 will retain the restriction of the tiny tubing they used on that engine. I'd recommend the headers for something like a 88 IROC 350, from Dynomax or Edelbrock or SLP.
Nobody, not Comp or anyone else that makes quality cams, will warranty their cam unless you put real valve springs on with the cam. The factory springs are made out of relatively few turns of fat wire, which tend to lose their (already inadequate) tension quickly even with the lame cam profiles they use. And, since the wire is fat, the tension is not linear; as the lift increases, the tension begins to rapidly increase as the springs near coil bind, which wipes out cam lobes. Aftermarket springs are made of more turns of thinner wire, which provide higher tension with more lift before they reach coil bind.
You'll probably want a XE262H cam & 812 lifters, and 981 springs with 742 retainers.
The cam will do almosy nothing for you by itself because the exhaust on that car is so bad. Get rid of the manifolds and Y-pipe, and replace them with something that doesn't fit your LG4. Anything that fits LG4 will retain the restriction of the tiny tubing they used on that engine. I'd recommend the headers for something like a 88 IROC 350, from Dynomax or Edelbrock or SLP.
Last edited by RB83L69; May 19, 2002 at 03:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Va
thanks for the info.
another ??? if I may,
I found in the JEGS catalog that they sell a "K" cam kit from comp. cams.
it comes with:
the cam X262H
lifters (unspecified)
timing chain/gears (unspecified)
valve springs (unspecified)
retainers and locks (unspecified)
all for $ 279.00
I assume that comp cams would assemble the kit with the correct components that went with each other, is this a good price or not ??
also, would I need to upgrade the rockers along with everything else or would the stock ones be ok ???
another ??? if I may,
I found in the JEGS catalog that they sell a "K" cam kit from comp. cams.
it comes with:
the cam X262H
lifters (unspecified)
timing chain/gears (unspecified)
valve springs (unspecified)
retainers and locks (unspecified)
all for $ 279.00
I assume that comp cams would assemble the kit with the correct components that went with each other, is this a good price or not ??
also, would I need to upgrade the rockers along with everything else or would the stock ones be ok ???
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