Valve Lash??
Valve Lash??
Had motor put in 350 carb setup. Burnt some wires from stater. Now got it running tonight. After running for 5 mins start to hear this ticking sound. Can't tell if it's coming from valves or dist. Only thing I did to dist is change out rotor. Can a new motors valve lash need to be redone after so many hours of running?? CLAP-CLAP-CLAP something like that.
F1,
Yes. Hot lash adjustment is generally more accurate than cold lashing. All the components are at their full hot dimensions, oil is warm and lifters are actually working hydraulically, parts are operating dynamically instead of statically. The process can get a little messy, even with some designs of the oil deflector clips, but it is almost foolproof.
Aside from that, your new engine shoudl be polishing wear surfaces, possibly changing the clearances. Rocker pivots, push rod ends, valve tips, and even slight burnishing of lifter rollers and cam lobes can change the valve train dimensions (usually to the shorter side). If you have a flat tappet cam and lifters, the adjustment may have to be made more than once over the first couple thousand miles.
Yes. Hot lash adjustment is generally more accurate than cold lashing. All the components are at their full hot dimensions, oil is warm and lifters are actually working hydraulically, parts are operating dynamically instead of statically. The process can get a little messy, even with some designs of the oil deflector clips, but it is almost foolproof.
Aside from that, your new engine shoudl be polishing wear surfaces, possibly changing the clearances. Rocker pivots, push rod ends, valve tips, and even slight burnishing of lifter rollers and cam lobes can change the valve train dimensions (usually to the shorter side). If you have a flat tappet cam and lifters, the adjustment may have to be made more than once over the first couple thousand miles.
Well, in the 350 they putin comp-cam 270 part # 12-211-2. Seems that the cam makes the idle very rough. I took of the valve covers and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I'm going to put them back on time out the dist. and tune my Edelbrock 750. Then after temp is up I'll check the valve lash running hot. Is the some type of gap or spec to fallow on the valves? One thing have a vacume advance HEI. Like I said put on a new rotor, can some of the TICKING sound come from the rubbing of the rotor on the HEI points? While installing the cap. there's that notch to get it flush on the dist housing. The guys at the shop didn't have it lined up. If I line in up the the cap and coil is 270* pointing to the passenger side of engine bay. Now they have it 90* drivers side can this lead to a problem. Driving it from the shop there was no problems in the engine running. Just need to be tuned out a little. Also looking for engine casting number. It isn't on the R/H side just in front of the head? Where else can I find it in a accessable place? In need this number cause I think I have the wrong dip stick. They told me Casting number 39700-14. Says it came out in 70-73 Camaro. The dip stick is on the passenger side. Running through just below the head into the oil pan. Not directly to pan??
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