thinking of swapping to a LT1 intake...
thinking of swapping to a LT1 intake...
ok guys I got 89 iroc z with a mild 355. Still need to change cam and heads since there stock, but for now its ok...I was just wondering how much would i benefit from a Lt1 intake...im just sick of TPI dying out so early plus i like the way a Lt1 looks. also how much would it be if I bought a intake from john and had him do it. Also I have a edelbrock high flow base then stock runners and ported plenium I want to sell. If anyone is interested.
well, you're looking at extensive mods to get one to work because of the reverse flow cooling design. Plus I don't think any of the bolt holes will line up (might be wrong there). there are no coolant passages in the intake like on a normal smallblock so you'd have to custom fabricate some sort of crossover pipe in some fashion. If you really like the LT1 look, get a TPIS miniram. Not much of a fan of this intake but it looks like the LT1
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
check out www.lt1intake.com
didn't realize someone had went through this trouble. My question is why? Unless you are a good machinist and have tools, I don't see this being very cost efficient for the gains. I'll read through it again when I get more time.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
Even if you have to pay someone to do the machining it's a great value because you're essentially getting a stealth/super/mini ram for several hundreds less and the performance gain is well worth it. I'm starting the swap to LT1 intake from carb now and I estimate it'll cost around $700 for everything I need (harness, fuel pump, ecm, intake, etc.)
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by snakeskinner
didn't realize someone had went through this trouble. My question is why? Unless you are a good machinist and have tools, I don't see this being very cost efficient for the gains. I'll read through it again when I get more time.
didn't realize someone had went through this trouble. My question is why? Unless you are a good machinist and have tools, I don't see this being very cost efficient for the gains. I'll read through it again when I get more time.
Gains are simular to the MR too. I gained 5 mph in the 1/4 mile so I estimate a 40-50 HP at the rear wheels. That is probably 60-70 HP at the crank. TPIS advertises their MR for a 90-110 HP gain (crank) and that's advertising numbers. Not far off huh? And mine are real world numbers, not advertising. I imangine with the right combo I could attain the same 90-110 HP gains too.
What other bolt on will give that kind of power for $500 besides N2O?
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