Forged aluminum rods
The way to think about this is in terms of the force you expect them to contain. That is for a given crank throw and piston
weight ... how fast can you spin them and how long
can you get away with it.
Roughly ....
1. Determine the duty cycle...
Is this a 24hours engine, 500 miler, drag racer
(aluminum rods are usually for drag racing)
2. Figure out the bore and stroke and piston configuration
of what you are trying to build
3. Determine how fast this has to spin to meet your target
(7000rpm for a 10 sec National final or 50 passes at 6000
local club racing)
Now you will have something to talk to Manley about...
weight ... how fast can you spin them and how long
can you get away with it.
Roughly ....
1. Determine the duty cycle...
Is this a 24hours engine, 500 miler, drag racer
(aluminum rods are usually for drag racing)
2. Figure out the bore and stroke and piston configuration
of what you are trying to build
3. Determine how fast this has to spin to meet your target
(7000rpm for a 10 sec National final or 50 passes at 6000
local club racing)
Now you will have something to talk to Manley about...
Alum rods are a bad idea on the street. Alum will work harden with repeated cycles, and the temp seen on the street will also shorten their life. When it stretches at the top of each exhaust stroke, it will then come back to its orriginal length, for a certain amount of cycles. Many cycles lead to its work hardening, and when it reaches its limit, it will break. Hp is not a factor at all, we use them in engines making in excess of 2000 hp on nitrous, and also in 9500 rpm 500 inch engines, but we also consider about 40 passes the limit, then throw them away. Id stick with a good steel rod for serious street use. Just my .02 worth.
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