Stalling, backfiring under acceleration...
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Renton, WA
Car: 1985 Camaro, 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L carbed and 5.0L TPI
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 and 3.27 posi
Stalling, backfiring under acceleration...
Please help! I have a 305 TBI. It seems to idle smoothly, although the tach twitches every few seconds (usually sits rock steady at idle). But under acceleration the car stalls and backfires! All 8 plugs are getting spark (checked with timing light). Attached a vacuum gauge to the TB and it didn't fluctuate at all (read 21 Hg, whatever that means). I can rev it past 5000rpm in park with no problem. I replaced the cap and plug wires within the last two months. The only things I can think of are fouled plugs, clogged fuel filter, or damaged rotor (I know I should have replaced that when I did the cap
). Any ideas?
). Any ideas? i would say start with the rotor cuz there cheap then replace the filter and run some fuel injector cleaner through the system to clean the injectors. or it also could be a week ignition module or coil, sounds like its not getting enough spark at higher rpm when under load. and if all else fails just move the timing, cuz my 350 showed the timming correct with a timming light but actualy the ruber in the harmonic balancer was sliping giving me the incorrect reading.
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
If it backfire here's a generic rule of thumb:
If it backfires through the carb/TB it's the timing
If it backfires through the exhaust there's a valve sticking
Simple enough right?
If it backfires through the carb/TB it's the timing
If it backfires through the exhaust there's a valve sticking
Simple enough right?
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
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Originally posted by IHI
If it backfire here's a generic rule of thumb:
If it backfires through the carb/TB it's the timing
If it backfires through the exhaust there's a valve sticking
Simple enough right?
If it backfire here's a generic rule of thumb:
If it backfires through the carb/TB it's the timing
If it backfires through the exhaust there's a valve sticking
Simple enough right?
Last edited by Mark A Shields; Jul 13, 2002 at 12:27 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Contrary to the rule stated above, backfiring / surging / chugging under load but idling smoothly often indicates a lean condition.
replace the fuel filter first. If it still does it, check your fuel pressure and injector spray pattern.
You're right, you should have replaceed the rotor instead of the cap. Rotors fail abotu 10 times as often as caps do. Put a new one in it even if that's not the problem (probably isn't actually).
replace the fuel filter first. If it still does it, check your fuel pressure and injector spray pattern.
You're right, you should have replaceed the rotor instead of the cap. Rotors fail abotu 10 times as often as caps do. Put a new one in it even if that's not the problem (probably isn't actually).
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 0
From: Renton, WA
Car: 1985 Camaro, 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L carbed and 5.0L TPI
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 and 3.27 posi
OK, this might narrow it down a little. I found while driving today that it only has problems when the engine is warm (or hot perhaps). Runs great when cold. Although my temp gauge never exceeded 220*.
Any more thoughts?
Any more thoughts? Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by 86_iroc-z28-350
i would say start with the rotor cuz there cheap then replace the filter and run some fuel injector cleaner through the system to clean the injectors. or it also could be a week ignition module or coil, sounds like its not getting enough spark at higher rpm when under load. and if all else fails just move the timing, cuz my 350 showed the timming correct with a timming light but actualy the ruber in the harmonic balancer was sliping giving me the incorrect reading.
i would say start with the rotor cuz there cheap then replace the filter and run some fuel injector cleaner through the system to clean the injectors. or it also could be a week ignition module or coil, sounds like its not getting enough spark at higher rpm when under load. and if all else fails just move the timing, cuz my 350 showed the timming correct with a timming light but actualy the ruber in the harmonic balancer was sliping giving me the incorrect reading.
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