code 23 and 32
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From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
code 23 and 32
I was driving home today, and I let the car go down to about 1200 rpm on the highway (too tall gearing, and i was in sixth). After a moment, i got the service engine soon light. When I got home, i got a code 23, and a 32.
A little history:
For the last two months or so, I've been trying to find the cause of a really odd idle problem I have. The car seems to stay at or around 1500 rpm when I am shifting, and at idle....only after a while, will it slowly come down to about 700 rpm. It only does this sometimes. The rest of the time, which I've noticed happens only when the A/C is on (oddly enough) but not every time when its on, it will go down to 500 rpm, want to stall, and then shoots back up to like 1200. After a while at 1200, it will slowly go back down to 700 rpms or so. Also, the car feels rather sluggish with the A/C on, but not when its off. I know having the A/C on makes a small difference, but lately its been a pretty significant difference.
I've checked the cap and rotor, plugs, and have grown tired of checking for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner without finding anything. I replaced the IAC just hoping that would be it, because most other situations I've heard of, that was the problem. It helped a bit, but didn't solve the problem. So then I built myself a winaldl cable, but I can only run it from my driveway cause i don't have a laptop. The tps sensor was showing a rather low voltage at part throttle, so I replaced it as well about 3 weeks ago, and while that helped out also, it didn't fix the problem.
Code 23 : Low temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR Throttle position sensor error
Code 32 : Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve
How can I go about checking these? Anything besides winaldl? Its a real hassle to move my computer outside to only be able to run it with the car parked.
By the way, sorry for such a long post.
A little history:
For the last two months or so, I've been trying to find the cause of a really odd idle problem I have. The car seems to stay at or around 1500 rpm when I am shifting, and at idle....only after a while, will it slowly come down to about 700 rpm. It only does this sometimes. The rest of the time, which I've noticed happens only when the A/C is on (oddly enough) but not every time when its on, it will go down to 500 rpm, want to stall, and then shoots back up to like 1200. After a while at 1200, it will slowly go back down to 700 rpms or so. Also, the car feels rather sluggish with the A/C on, but not when its off. I know having the A/C on makes a small difference, but lately its been a pretty significant difference.
I've checked the cap and rotor, plugs, and have grown tired of checking for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner without finding anything. I replaced the IAC just hoping that would be it, because most other situations I've heard of, that was the problem. It helped a bit, but didn't solve the problem. So then I built myself a winaldl cable, but I can only run it from my driveway cause i don't have a laptop. The tps sensor was showing a rather low voltage at part throttle, so I replaced it as well about 3 weeks ago, and while that helped out also, it didn't fix the problem.
Code 23 : Low temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR Throttle position sensor error
Code 32 : Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve
How can I go about checking these? Anything besides winaldl? Its a real hassle to move my computer outside to only be able to run it with the car parked.
By the way, sorry for such a long post.
Blue,
You may have two defective input devices, or you may have a wiring/ECM power issue. Check the 5VDC reference source at the MAT sensor. I presume you have a TBI, so that is not that difficult. Also test the reference voltage at the MAP sensor (I think they may be the same ECM source circuit). If you determine that you have low voltage (less than 4.8VDC, you may have found your problem. Then you would only need to find the cause, either a poor conneection, ground, or failing ECM regulator. Most likely it's a connection at either the devices or at teh ECM edge connectors.
You may have two defective input devices, or you may have a wiring/ECM power issue. Check the 5VDC reference source at the MAT sensor. I presume you have a TBI, so that is not that difficult. Also test the reference voltage at the MAP sensor (I think they may be the same ECM source circuit). If you determine that you have low voltage (less than 4.8VDC, you may have found your problem. Then you would only need to find the cause, either a poor conneection, ground, or failing ECM regulator. Most likely it's a connection at either the devices or at teh ECM edge connectors.
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