I'm going to replace the heater core this weekend in my 92 Camaro RS. I'm looking for any tips or specific info for removing the console & the dash. I did a heater core a few years ago in a 88 Firebird, but I can't remember anything specific, especially relative to console removal. Is all of this pretty self-apparent, or is there any tips relative to hidden screws, etc.
Thanks, FJK

I can't remember if you've got a difficult one or not. In my 87 it only took a couple hours with some breaks. Taking the speaker and mount out helped to get a couple hidden bolts from the top. I had to work outside of the car with my hands in there to see what I was doing. The most difficult part is making the new pipes fit in the old holes. Make sure you core you're taking out has them in the same location as the one you're putting in. Be patient when you put it in. I had someone help me locate the holes as I pushed it through.

Oh yeah, I didn't remove my console. Only the dash pad, kick panel, and speaker/mount. I'm not sure if you need to in your car, though. I guess you'll see. Good luck.

I need a heatercore in my car....i don't have the time to work on it and i really don't feel like working on it....i just got done with the new drivetrain and that wore me out for a bit...ne way i found a guy that seems to do good work....gonna cost me $235 at the most.

FJK,

There is a large screw on the lower right ccorner of the dash panel. If you remove that screw, you can flex the lower edge of the dash rearward enough to use a 7mm socket and 1/4" extensions to reach the upper core case screws. Those are the only "hidden" screws that I encountered while changing mine. It took me longer to remove and attach the hoses in the engine compartment than to physically change the core itself. There is precious little space behind the head to make the connections.

Another item to be aware of is the angle of the coolant tubes on the core. I had to make more than one trip to the parts store to get a core that was assembled properly (with the tubes at the correct angle). A little difference in the core tubes make a big differencee in the installation success - or at least it did for me.

BTW - It's a good time to complete the job with a thorough flush. I used DexCool on the refill so that I don't have to keep changing these friggin' cores. My car sits idle so much that I need all the help I can get.

Put down a towel on the floor as some will leak out.

Vader
So, does that mean the dash does not have to be removed? Meaning, the only purpose of dash removal is to access the upper row of screws on the heater box.

I think I'll have less problems with the heater hoses, as this one is a V6.

PS: Jefferson in 2 wks.

FJK

I did not have to remove the dash when I did my '92. I removed the dash pad the the speaker. Then as Vader indicated, I removed the corner dash screw and pulled the dash out a few inches. Just enough to make it a bit easier. It was a pain but I got it done in a few hours.

I did not have a problem with the tubes on the new core. Guess I got lucky there.

As Vader said the heater hoses are tough to get on and off. I got a tip from a mechanic friend. He said to coat the inside of the hose with some grease when you put it on the new heater core tubes. He said it will make it easier to get off if you need to take them off in the future.

Good luck.

Bill

A small swivel bit for your ratchet makes the job much easier.

Vader,
I used to run dexcool in my old engine, but my heater core went out after I switched over. I've heard that using dexcool in an older car will cause leaks like that, and I'm using the old green stuff in my new motor. I think it is similar to running synthetic oil in an engine where old buildups were keeping it from leaking, but the synthetic cleans them away.

Rezinn,

I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but so far I've not had a problem with the DexCool. Of course, after I get the cars out of storage in the next few weeks my story could change completely, but it's been three seasons since I've changed the core with no problems yet.

Hey! Thanks so much everyone for your valuable advice and tips. I ususally get carried away with this kind of stuff & would have taken the entire dash out, if it wasn't for everyones help. I changed the core because of a no heat problem, not because it was leaking. Funny thing, the core in the car was already replaced, as it was not an AC Delco. Flushed the old core after it was out, both ways, & it had good flow through. Although I did not look closely during removal, I'm wondering if that double blend door was installed properly the last time the core was changed. Meaning, the installation of the door shaft into the heater case. Oh well, at least it works now. Ran the engine & checked all door operations before I put the case cover back on.

The heater hoses were just as everyone described..a bitch to remove. I was even in my "thinking ahead" mode & picked up some beater screwdrivers at the last swap meet & heated the tips up to bend them into 90 & 180 degree pulling hooks for the hoses. Still took a long time for hose removal, but I don't think I could have got them off, intact, without those pulling hooks. Those GM hoses are something else. Even with all the greif I gave them, they didn't split or tear, so I just reused them (cheap a**).

Man, what a life. Last weekend did a heater core in my 85 Mustang. There's one the entire dash has to come out, & so does the heater plenum. For once, a 3rd gen is easy!

BTW Vader, hate to rain on your Dexcool parade, but that stuff has the ability to cause gasket material to leak in older vehicles that were not engineered with OAT coolant in mind. Worked with that stuff for 4 years, but forgot the theory behind gasket degredation. Could look it up, if you are interested.

Thanks again everyone, FJK

FJK,

That's O.K. I could use a little rain, since I'm trying to get my lawn started before the snow flies. Maybe I've been lucky, but I haven't had any issues (yet) except a little better heat transfer and an initial leak at the water outlewt gasket. Most of the hoses are newer, and the '86 doesn't have the coolant valve for the heater core (constant flow). Due to this, I'm thinking that teh rubber content of the system is relatively low. I suppose the water pump seal could be in question, but so far...