mild cam
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I never could figure out why people build mismatched combinations like yours, so I can't answer your question....
There's no such thing as too much cam, only not enough motor. But you don't really have that problem.
A decent cam with no other change, except maybe valve springs, would probably give your motor 50% more HP. You have heads, exhaust, intake and carb set up for lots of mid-range power and even some decent high-RPM flow, and a cam that's barely enough for a tractor motor. That's less cam than alot of these cars came with, stock.
There's no such thing as too much cam, only not enough motor. But you don't really have that problem.
A decent cam with no other change, except maybe valve springs, would probably give your motor 50% more HP. You have heads, exhaust, intake and carb set up for lots of mid-range power and even some decent high-RPM flow, and a cam that's barely enough for a tractor motor. That's less cam than alot of these cars came with, stock.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by RB83L69
I never could figure out why people build mismatched combinations like yours, so I can't answer your question....
There's no such thing as too much cam, only not enough motor. But you don't really have that problem.
A decent cam with no other change, except maybe valve springs, would probably give your motor 50% more HP. You have heads, exhaust, intake and carb set up for lots of mid-range power and even some decent high-RPM flow, and a cam that's barely enough for a tractor motor. That's less cam than alot of these cars came with, stock.
I never could figure out why people build mismatched combinations like yours, so I can't answer your question....
There's no such thing as too much cam, only not enough motor. But you don't really have that problem.
A decent cam with no other change, except maybe valve springs, would probably give your motor 50% more HP. You have heads, exhaust, intake and carb set up for lots of mid-range power and even some decent high-RPM flow, and a cam that's barely enough for a tractor motor. That's less cam than alot of these cars came with, stock.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
Well, I know what I need to buy next. I appreciate your comparison to a tractor motor. Really. When the engine was built, I (with the advise of a dip $hit mechanic) kept the 305 TBI and computer. At that time I really didn't know a damn thing about cars and you can tell by how I took his advise.
Now, what cam (manufacturer and specs, if not asking too much) would you guys suggest? Approximate cost? Thanks again!
:hail:IROC-Z
Now, what cam (manufacturer and specs, if not asking too much) would you guys suggest? Approximate cost? Thanks again!
:hail:IROC-Z
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I'd suggest a Comp XE268 or maybe a XE274 if you really want to turn the wick up an extra notch... either one is about $110 IIRC. You should probably get the kit with the lifters for a couple more coins.
Did I accurately describe how it runs, or something?
Did I accurately describe how it runs, or something?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Choosing a mild cam has a few redeeming qualities.
1. gas mileage
2. works with a stock low stall converter and low ratio gearing.
3. smooth idle
4. high idle vaccuum ( power brakes air etc.)
5. low emmisions
6. drivability smooth easy cruising
8. gives good torque in a low compression motor.
9. Less of a difference between flywheel hp and net rwhp
large cams produce power at higher rpms
all the accessories and the exhaust system on stock
street vehicles get real restrictive at high rpm (+5000)
in other words they tend to eat up that higher rpm power.
Having high induction/ exhaust flow is better for performance
than just having a big cam. A big cam will not make big power ina motor with low air flow. It also needs high gearing and a high stall converter to get the power out of it.
Whereas a motor with high airflow but a mild cam will still make
a lot more "Usable" power than stock.
And usually out accelerate a big cammed (stock) low airflow motor. Especially in the street environment.
A big cam needs to be in a high airflow, high rpm tuned motor
to work.
That being said; the cam in your motor is mild relative to the other parts.
You could gain some performance by selecting a larger grind.
But mileage will most likely be lower and you should
match your gearing and torque converter to match
the new cam choice. Your fuel system and exhaust system needs to be up to the task too. (airflow)
1. gas mileage
2. works with a stock low stall converter and low ratio gearing.
3. smooth idle
4. high idle vaccuum ( power brakes air etc.)
5. low emmisions
6. drivability smooth easy cruising
8. gives good torque in a low compression motor.
9. Less of a difference between flywheel hp and net rwhp
large cams produce power at higher rpms
all the accessories and the exhaust system on stock
street vehicles get real restrictive at high rpm (+5000)
in other words they tend to eat up that higher rpm power.
Having high induction/ exhaust flow is better for performance
than just having a big cam. A big cam will not make big power ina motor with low air flow. It also needs high gearing and a high stall converter to get the power out of it.
Whereas a motor with high airflow but a mild cam will still make
a lot more "Usable" power than stock.
And usually out accelerate a big cammed (stock) low airflow motor. Especially in the street environment.
A big cam needs to be in a high airflow, high rpm tuned motor
to work.
That being said; the cam in your motor is mild relative to the other parts.
You could gain some performance by selecting a larger grind.
But mileage will most likely be lower and you should
match your gearing and torque converter to match
the new cam choice. Your fuel system and exhaust system needs to be up to the task too. (airflow)
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Sep 14, 2002 at 10:20 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
From: springfield,IL
Car: T/A / Grand Am
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: glide
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 5.67
Re: mild cam
Originally posted by rocky383
What is the purpose of having a mild cam? Pros and cons?
Thanks.
:hail:IROC-Z
What is the purpose of having a mild cam? Pros and cons?
Thanks.
:hail:IROC-Z
Its funny how some stock cams are soooo mild that they hurt drivability. I had an LG4, and my brother had a L69 ho. his car always worked better than mine, everywhere. now i have what i thought would be too radical 224/230 roller and my car make wayyyy more power everywhere compared to the LG4. My driveway is inclined about 25 degrees, i can fire it up and Idle out of my driveway ( with a stick shift). I runs better at every RPM down to about 400. I know there is more to it than that and comparing a 383 to an LG4 is apples to oranges but i can't comprehend why a manufacturer would throw away soo much power and driving enjoyment.
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