AFR rev kit
#1
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AFR rev kit
How hard are these to install with the heads on your car. im going to be going with a bigger cam and new rockers, and i figrued i will be seeing 6000+rpm and a rev kit cant hurt while im in there. can anyone give me any info on install....how hard it is? any special tools required?
thanks alot
thanks alot
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
The idea of the rev kit is to assist the valve springs in dealing with the inertai of heavy llifters. It's a set of springs that go under the heads and push the lifters down in their bores.
If your valve springs are adequate, it's usually not necessary.
If your valve springs are adequate, it's usually not necessary.
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It's the other way around... it presses down on the lifter by adding a set of springs that go under the heads around the push rods, and so doesn't affect the rest of the valve train at all, except to aid in pushing the lifter back down into its bore during the closing ramps. It also only works with certain lifters; AFAIK it won't work with the vertical link-bar type lifters, because the top of the lifter isn't flat since it has the thing the link bars attach to.
Here's what it really is, and what it's for...
http://www.competitioncams.com/catalog/289.html
Here's what it really is, and what it's for...
http://www.competitioncams.com/catalog/289.html
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Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
they make two kinds
I have a set of the aftermarket comp rollers and AFR makes a set of buttons that will clear vertical link bars.
And,, I actually prefer putting them on with the heads in place. Your really not going to get a true torque reading when torquing head bolts with those springs under there. Make sure the aluminum bar will clear with the head on.. sometimes the bar has to be inplace first. They are a pain to put in and remove anyway you do it..
But most hydrollers will go 7000 with them and very few will go over 6250 without.
Save money,,, go these guys
http://www.competitionproducts.com/page60.html
And,, I actually prefer putting them on with the heads in place. Your really not going to get a true torque reading when torquing head bolts with those springs under there. Make sure the aluminum bar will clear with the head on.. sometimes the bar has to be inplace first. They are a pain to put in and remove anyway you do it..
But most hydrollers will go 7000 with them and very few will go over 6250 without.
Save money,,, go these guys
http://www.competitionproducts.com/page60.html
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