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AFR rev kit

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Old 09-29-2002, 01:22 PM
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AFR rev kit

How hard are these to install with the heads on your car. im going to be going with a bigger cam and new rockers, and i figrued i will be seeing 6000+rpm and a rev kit cant hurt while im in there. can anyone give me any info on install....how hard it is? any special tools required?
thanks alot
Old 09-29-2002, 03:47 PM
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It is an extreme hassle with the heads on the car. Very easy with them off.

You'll do better just to use the right valve springs in the first place.
Old 09-29-2002, 07:10 PM
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i thought the idea of the rev kit was to prevent valve float, and that mainly occured because of hydrualic lifters. i could be wrong tho, any other opinions??
Old 09-29-2002, 07:12 PM
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The idea of the rev kit is to assist the valve springs in dealing with the inertai of heavy llifters. It's a set of springs that go under the heads and push the lifters down in their bores.

If your valve springs are adequate, it's usually not necessary.
Old 09-30-2002, 08:16 AM
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I'm no expert, but I'm not inclined to believe that it's there just to aid the valve springs. Because of where the additional spring pressure is focused, it will add additional seat pressure without putting additional stress on the hydraulic lifter.
Old 09-30-2002, 08:41 AM
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It's the other way around... it presses down on the lifter by adding a set of springs that go under the heads around the push rods, and so doesn't affect the rest of the valve train at all, except to aid in pushing the lifter back down into its bore during the closing ramps. It also only works with certain lifters; AFAIK it won't work with the vertical link-bar type lifters, because the top of the lifter isn't flat since it has the thing the link bars attach to.

Here's what it really is, and what it's for...

http://www.competitioncams.com/catalog/289.html
Old 09-30-2002, 08:52 AM
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they make two kinds

I have a set of the aftermarket comp rollers and AFR makes a set of buttons that will clear vertical link bars.

And,, I actually prefer putting them on with the heads in place. Your really not going to get a true torque reading when torquing head bolts with those springs under there. Make sure the aluminum bar will clear with the head on.. sometimes the bar has to be inplace first. They are a pain to put in and remove anyway you do it..

But most hydrollers will go 7000 with them and very few will go over 6250 without.

Save money,,, go these guys

http://www.competitionproducts.com/page60.html
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