I've had a slight rough idle and now getting code 32.
I took the valve off and notice that it (the exhaust passage) does not seal completely when closed. Is it susposed too?

BTW, it's for my 1995 LT1 Corvette.

Thanks!

 

Joey,

It should seal completely. You're lucky it's on the LT1, since the EGR is a lot more accessible back there than under the plenum. I'll bet they make up the difference in price, though.

 

Thanks Vader!

Took all of 2 minutes to remove. I have the lower part soaking in cleaner now. There are carbon deposits present around the plunger. The diaphram appears to be working fine. Going to all this trouble to avoid the $70 part (right again).

Never owned a L98. The LG4's malfuntioned a few years back. It was easy to change and cheap, so I didn't bother trying to clean.

 

Joey,

Just make sure you don'timmerse the diaphragm or stepper motor portion of the valve in any solvent.

 

Where is the stepper motor for the egr on the l98??

 

L98s use a vacuum actuated EGR valve. Some of the newer OBD-II engines use a digital electronic (stepper motor, like the IAC on your L98) to control the EGR position. You still don't want to immerse the vacuum diaphragm on your EGR valve, since the rubber used for the pilot backpressure valve has to remain flexible and withstand high temperatures. Because of this demand, the material selected for the pilot valve is not oil or solvent resistant, and may be damaged by those fluids.

 

I've been gettin a code 32 and have no idea why? My egr valve is good. I can move the diaphram with a vacume pump?

 

On an L98, the EGR code will appear if the temperature diagnostic switch does not change state when the ECM expects it (part throttle cruise). You can also get a '32' if the diagnostic switch is constantly closed or if the wire is grounded somewhere. Another possible cause is an open circuit at the EGR solenoid, indicating either an unplugged or poorly connected solenoid, or open winding of the solenoid coil.

If you meter the coil, you should expect about 150 ohms, but the range is pretty broad. As long as you have more than 50 ohms and less than 1,000, you should be O.K.

The temperature switch should read infinite resistance unless it is closed. You can access the switch via a single-wire connector near the distributor. The area is pretty congested with wiring, but if you sort it out you should be able to find what you need.

 

Vader,

Thank you so much for pointing me in the ritemperature switch ght direction! One quick question, the temperature switch. Is that the switch that runs to the sensor under the plentum?