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cam installation this friday --we hope--

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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 01:00 AM
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SlowMaro's Avatar
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From: columbia sc
cam installation this friday --we hope--

so yeah, ...hwo exactly do i re-adjust the valves *if* and when i get this cam installed. i know what all to take off and everything to do --i think-- and the part im stuck on is ...how do i adjust the valves before i start the car to fully adjust the valves. yes yes...slowmaro is a moron when it comes to actual internal engine work. but im learning. ive already sent the money order for a cam out of a 97 t/a <LT1 cam> this will work on a LO3 right? just slap it in and adjust and itll work?

Last edited by SlowMaro; Dec 2, 2002 at 01:21 AM.
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 06:34 AM
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ede
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i measure from the top of the stud to the top of the nut with the depth rod on a dial caliper and record the measurement ,usually around .220, and then reinstall the nuts to the same measurement and you don't have to much if any adjusting.
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 09:56 AM
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by ede
i measure from the top of the stud to the top of the nut with the depth rod on a dial caliper and record the measurement ,usually around .220, and then reinstall the nuts to the same measurement and you don't have to much if any adjusting.

Wow, that's pretty cool, I had tried to think of something like that a while ago, like counting the # of turns to get the nut off then just reversing it, but I don't think that would work.
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 10:58 AM
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330hp_91RS's Avatar
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From: Kona, Hawaii / Redlands, CA
Car: 91' RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Ummmm....

If I were you, I would go get a haynes Camaro Tech manual, or a haynes small block chevy rebuild manual. It'll tell you in there.

The valve must be fully closed when you adjust it, or else you're gonna get a bent valve or a cracked spring if they're too tight. Too loose, and you lose performance cause the valve isn't lifting as high as it should, plus they will make a chattering noise.

To adjust the valves, you need to take the belt (s) off and then turn the harmonic balancer to TDC on cyl. #1, then in the techbook, there is a sequence that you follow on the valve adjusting. When you finish that sequence, turn the balancer 1 full rotation to TDC cyl. #6, and then do that sequence.

This is the easiest way. You could find TDC for each cylinder but chances are you can't find exact TDC for each one, thus the valves won't be adjusted properly.


WHATEVER YOU DO, MAKE SURE THAT THE MOTOR IS AT TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE #1 PISTON COMPRESSION STROKE BEFORE YOU START TO PULL STUFF OFF. You may know this you may not, I'm just trying to help you out best I can. It's easy to get excited and not do things the right way and trust me, you won't be too excited after it takes you days to finish the job.

To find TDC #1 cyl. before you start, take the belt off and take you distributor cap off. Look at where your #1 cyl. plug wire was put on at. Turn the Harmonic balancer over and stop it at the 0 mark on the timing cover. If the rotor is pointing at #1 you are at TDC #1, if it's pointing the opposite direction, turn it over 1 more time and then you'll be there.

If you need any help, just PM me, I'll gladly help you out. Chances are, whatever you do wrong or can't figure out, I've been there and done that!

Later, Matt
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 11:32 AM
  #5  
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ok cool deal that helps out alot....i havent done anything like this before and ill be out here just shooting in the dark with no help.....ill just go REAL slow like.......in any event, until fridy, im gonna research as much as possible to figure out the best, easiest and most precise way to do this....
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Old Dec 2, 2002 | 11:47 PM
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cant yo adjust the valves wth the car running?? i know i could do this on my old 350 bu it had hydraulic lifters...i dunno about roller....aslo,, ede, ....top of what nut to the top of what bolt....like i said i dont know crap about valve train modifying/adjusting....
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