It worked perfectly, no problems. On the way to Tucson, the blower motor quit working. It hadn't even been cold enough to use the defroster or enjoy the heater yet!

I checked the fuses and didn't find anything blown. What next?

 

Check to make sure the wire to the motor is still hooked up. let me see if I have a pic.

 

Mark,

I'll check. It was working perfectly, hopefully it's something simple.

 

Checked it, it's hooked up.

I'd check it for voltage, but it's raining!

Mark, did you get the email I just sent you?

 

LOL, that was you, yeah i got it, I scanned it with my Norton and got no viruses, hmm, I'll try it again later when I update again.

 

If you disconnect the big purple wire from the blower motor, you can apply 12 volts straight to the blower motor terminal. If the motor doesn't spin, it's burnt out... if it does spin, there's a terminal that's inside the car, comes off the climate controls, the terminal can burn up. I think Vader's shown a picture a few times? Might want to do a <a href="search.php?s="><img src="images/top_search.gif" alt="Search" border="0"></a> for it.

 

Thanks Tom. I'll give it a shot in the morning.

I just got done tearing everything apart too!

 

OK. No voltage coming out of the wire that hooks to the blower motor. Jumped it to the battery and it works perfectly.

Anybody got a picture?

I found this thread. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...wer+motor+wire

The connection referred to in here is behind the controls right, above the stereo?

 

I'm ready to quit!

Turns out it was just a lose connection somewhere behind there. Not exactly sure where, but it works now. However, the air will NOT switch out of the vent, it won't go to the defroster at all.

I thought that the defroster was the default.

I checked to see if any of the hoses came lose, but from what I can tell, they're all in tact. there is one nipple on the back of the unit, the one furthest to the passenger's side that doesn't have a hose or a cap. I closed it off with my finger, but no luck.

I looked around for another vac line that maybe was laying around.......but again, no luck.


Any ideas on this one?


BTW, my stereo fried when I took it out to get to the switch. My own fault. I was listening to it and was just going to lay it aside, the wires are long enough. The antenna slipped out. I checked the fuse, no luck there.

 

Heat? You don't need no stinkin' HEAT! I need heat. It's four friggin' degrees Farenheit here, so I need heat.

Anyway, since the blower isn't working, you might need to forget about the vacuum lines and check the controls. There is a blower resistor, blower relay, and ground wire to be checked out:



If the blower won't work on any setting, check the relay, relay connector, and ground wire. If the blower only works on HIGH, check the blower resistor pack.

 

right click save as, thanks Vader

 

Gruve,

O.K. So I misread that one. You have the blower working now, but have no control over the flow to the various outlets. So much for an easy fix.

The HVAC controls in your car are operated by vacuum. Each outlet and bypass door in the duct work has a small vacuum diaphragm motor that operates the door open or closed (except for the temperature control door, which is direct-cabled). Each of these vacuum motors has a spring to return the door to its "home" or default position. Applying vacuum moves the door one way, removing vacuum allows the spring to return the door the opposite way.

In addition to being an electrical switch to enable the blower and operate the A/C compressor clutch, the HVAC selector position switch is also a ported vacuum valve that routes the vacuum to the correct door for defrost, heat, A/C, MAX, Bi-Level, etc. The source for the vacuum is the intake manifold or plenum. There is a small (about ¼") hose connected to the intake. If this hose is disconnected or damaged, the HVAC controls will assume their default positions, causing all air to exit the defroster ducts. The defrost position is the default so that if the system fails, driving safety can still be assured since the windows can be kept clear.

Under normal circumstances, when the HVAC controls are moved to a different position, you should be able to hear a slight hissing noise inside the vehicle as the vacuum is vented from one motor and routed to another. If you don't hear any noise when the control is moved, chances are that the vacuum source hose is disconnected, connected incorrectly, or pinched or damaged in the engine compartment. If you hear a constant hissing noise, there is likely a vacuum leak inside the passenger compartment. This can be from a disconnected or damaged hose, or a failing ported vacuum valve in the HVAC controls. In either case, you would need to remove the HVAC control cluster and/or the lower instrument panel trim to access the hoses and controls.

If the air outlets cannot be controlled as they should, you may also have a problem with the ported vacuum valve itself. After many years of use, temperature changes, etc., the layer of silicone grease between the two halves of the valve housing may have dried out, allowing vacuum to operate servos that shouldn't operate in a particular position. I have had success in removing the vacuum valve, cleaning off the grease and mating surfaces, and applying a fresh layer of dielectric silicone grease to seal the valve housing. This takes some time, but returns the control to new condition.

 

Vader,

Actually there is a hissing sound that you can hear from outside of the car, coming from under the passenger's side windshield wiper. The leak has been there for a long time, but until yesterday, it worked anyway.

It could be that I now have an additional leak in there somewhere, so I'll have to get back in there again.

This is a big learning experience, definitely. I had no idea that my antenna was acting as a ground for my stereo. I didn't even have an antenna hooked up until last weekend. Last night it slipped out and the thing would power up for a nano second and then shut off. My big ole meat hooks can't reach under there to hook the antenna back up again, so I had to wait for my wife to get home.

I'll get under there and see what I can't break again.

 

I tore it all apart again and can find nothing. I can't even locate the flap that diverts air flow from the vents/floor/defroster.

I'm apparently as blind as I am stupid!

Any help?

 

Do you have a vacuum gauge that you can connect to teh supply line to the HVAC control valve?

 

Yep.

Where do I connect it?

How much vac should I be seeing?

 

just for ****s and giggles i'll throw in my story. My fan stopped workin after the engine swap, couldn't figure out why, finally realized that there's a ground cable in the wiring harness by the trans tunnel. both wires get a positive voltage unless the one ground is hooked up, it was pretty weird.

 

It would be best if you could connect it inside the car, right at the HVAC control. You should get at least 15" Hg or equal to the intake vacuum.

 

I only get like 11 or 12 right at the manifold, so I'd be amazed if it was higher than that at the HVAC.

I'll check and see exactly what I'm getting.

 

A-Haa!

Low manifold vacuum. I didn't realize we were working with that much cam. That may be your problem. The vacuum may be too low to overcome the return springs on the damper vacuum motors. I'm surprised you don't also have a problem with power brake assist.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"December 7th, 1941. A date that will live in infamy."
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Every idiot I see driving a Honda or Toyota with an American flag stuck out the back window is going in the ditch, so help me Mr. Roosevelt.

 

Vader,


The funny thing is that the it did work before.

Power brakes work very well. I have a 305, Comp Cams XE 268

Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 268 intake/280 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 224 intake/230 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .479 in. intake/.480 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 114 degrees
* RPM range: 1,800 to 5,800
* Best cam for modified 350 TPI with improved chip, injectors, plenum, runners and exhaust...


I don't wanna buy a vac canister or whatever they're called, so what can I do to test and make sure that the system is working? Should I get Linda Lovelace one the other end of the vac line?

 

Gruve,

The brake booster already has a vacuum reservoir (big, black, metal drum) and there should be a smaller vacuum reservoir for the cruise and HVAC (the plastic ball in the inner fender). The Linda Lovelace idea might be O.K., but you may want to put her at the end of a diferent line. Makes me think of those larger 4WD GM vehicles that the military uses....

Are you sure about the vacuum reading? Make sure you are testing right at a manifold fitting and not at a timed port. 11-12" usually doesn't even help the brake boost much, so you should have problems there as well if that is the actual vacuum. I'm running a 220°/230° .510"/.510" 114 LSA in an LT1 at 4° advance and make 16" Hg at idle. Hmmm...

 

You know I haven't check the vacuum for a while. At first I had an absolute terrible time getting the engine tuned properly.

It's fine now and runs smoothly, starts and shut down smoothly, no problems. But I haven't put the vac gauge on it for a while, so I'll have to go check.

But I think that's about right for the combo I have. A couple of other people I know are running similar readings for the same engine and cam.

I dont' have any trouble at all running my brakes, unless the idle drops to say around 500 and I'm on a very steep incline....and that's certainly not normal driving conditions.

I'll double check the vac reading, but I am sure that I was checking it in the right spot.

Perhaps I should check it at the manifold itself instead of the carb?

 

I took out a flat tip screw driver, a 7/16" socket and ratchet, my vacuum gauge and a can of carb cleaner.

After warm up I was getting about 11 on the ole vac gauge. I pointed the carb cleaner here and there and just out of curiosity I tightened down the carb bolts just a tad.

I also removed the vac fitting in the manifold, cleaned it up with a wire brush, put some teflon tape on it and torque it back down.

I then readjusted the air/fuel mixture and after it's all said and done, I'm getting 13 to 14 now.

I did have the same pull directly from the manifold and from a t fitting that I placed towards the "end of the line" in the vac lines.

I'll have to hook it up at the HVAC next because still no luck getting the air flow to change from the vent position.

*note: With the choke on I was getting 17 pounds (it's pounds right) on the vac gauge and still no luck. I do hear the hiss when I change the selector between vent, heater and defroster........so what are the chances of have something blocking a diverter?

Where are these doors/flaps/diverters.....whatever they're called located at?

 

One last thing.

Infrequently, with no pattern, upon starting I hear a slight clatter from behind the heater/ac control panel.

What could the association be?