Ok guys got a few problems on my hands right now. First of all my car is an 88 IROC Vert with 305 TPI, 105k miles. Now when i first bought the car it smoked on startup which i assumed to be the typical valve seal problem which is notorious in the fbodies, yet decided to fix them later. So starting this past summer I started getting smoke after idling for a few minutes, and then even at WOT. Now is that caused by piston rings or the valve seals are just getting worse and worse? If its piston rings whats involved in changing them, pulling the engine? And considering i'm a poor college student with not enough knowledge or time to tear down a whole engine how long can the car be driven with worn piston rings before the engine dies on me? Thanks for all the help guys

 

Nik,

If you're on Santa's "good" list, all might not be lost. There are some cases where an engine with that little mileage (yes, that isn't a lot) don't have worn rings, but may have significant sludge formation instead. Sludge and carbon buildup in the ring lands can cause the rings to stick, fail to expand and conform to the cylinder walls, and prevent compression sealing and oil control.

If you are lucky, (or have been good, for goodness' sake) you might not have all the wear that you think, and only have contamination. If you can see signs of oil sludge in the rocker covers (through the oil filler and breather openings) you may be able to save the rings by cleaning up the sludge. If the previous owner was not diligent about service and/or parked the car for long periods with old oil in the sump, you could have stuck rings. If that isn't the case and the rings are truly worn out, what I am about to suggest won't cause any more harm. You can continue to drive the car until it smokes so badly you cannot use the mirrors.

Get two oil filters - one cheapo store brand )like Fram) and one good one (like AC or Wix). Get five quarts of your favorite synthetic engine lubricant (as long as it's Mobil 1 5W30 or 10W30) and one quart of Dexron III automatic transmission oil.

Raise and safely support the car. Remove the oil FILTER only. Clean the filter base. Oil the seal on the cheapo (Fram) filter and install it. Pour the quart of Dexron in the crankcase and add any other engine oil to fill the sump. If it is a little overfilled from the Dexron, don't be too alarmed. Start the engine and check for filter leaks. Lower the car and allow the engine to warm up fully.

HINT: Don't put your tools and toys away yet, since you'll be needing them shortly.

Drive the car without heavily loading the engine, but get it good and warm. Return to your work are while the engine is hot, and drain the oil ASAP. Remove the cheapo filter and clean the base. Once all the ol and last bits of goo have drained, install the good (AC or Wix) filter and button up the oil pan. Fill the crankcase with synthetic 5W- or 10W30. Start and check for leaks again. Drive the car normally, then change the oil once again after 2,000-2,500 miles. Don't be surprised if the smoke stops along the way, and other things start to happen, like no more valve noise, less startup smoke, more power, less heating, etc. At the second oil change, expect to see lots of dirt, sludge, and carbon again. I'd suggest more synthetic and better quality filters for at that and all subsequent changes, but that's up to you. It will only keep things cleaner and better lubricated.

The transmission oil has a very high detergent content, mainly to keep metal and friction material in suspension in the transmission. It also works to thin and clean away heavy deposits from inside your engine, yet still lubricates. Many of the commercially available engine flush treatments will clean almost as well, but sacrifice lubrication. The synthetic will then continue to clean away the deposits so the filter can trap them (the reason you installed a GOOD filter).

If the engine starts to clean up and responds well. You might want to consider looking over the rest of the car, since it was likely as neglected as the oil. The cooling system would be a good next step, then the transmission, axle, etc.

I realize that the synthetic oil change is going to cost you about $25, plus the transmission oil and extra oil filter will probably jack that to near $30. That may be a lot for a college student on a budget, but it's a lot less than the $55.00 for a set of rings (plus the hundreds more for gaskets, bearings, supplies, labor, and bus fare while your car is down for overhaul). Skip this weekend's beer bash and change your oil instead. The economics of it are more favorable.

Incidentally, I've had very good success cleaning engines with this method, including increasing oil pressure, sealing stuck rings, quieting noisy hydraulic lifters, and even quieting main bearing noises in at least one instance. Because of experience from tear-downs, and the cleanliness and reduced wear that is revealed in those tear-downs, I only use synthetic. It costs a little more at each change, bnt is much cheaper in the long run.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

 

As evidence, check this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...16#post1039716

 

k, thats the first thing i'll be doing when i get home from college for break, i'll let you know how it turns out and thanks once again