OK, I'm in another dilemma.

I realize running aluminum rockers on the street isn't the wisest decision, I do plan however to tear the engine back down in a year or so , maybe 5k miles on the motor by then.

I don't so much mind having to replace the rockers, it's just I need to be able to justify dropping the cash on them twice.

First I can get some Comp Magnum Roller tip rockers non aluminum for $150.

Or, I can get some Crane aluminum full roller rockers for the same price.

What kind of HP gains can I see for aluminum roller rockers over say the Comp Roller tips, if it's only 5hp or so, then I can't justify spending the cash just for a few extra ponies now, to have to replace them later on.

Thanks for the help.

 

the trick aluminum ones are built for racing in mind where they will only see a race or two or a couples run down the track. the steel onesare meant for the street. now many people on this site havnt had any problems with aluminum rockers on a street car. i personal dont want to risk putting my money one something that is a toy car that u will go cruizing with which is why i went with el cheapo steel ones.

 

Increased power is minimal on a street engine, only coming in around 5000 rpm and higher.

On a 500 hp engine it might amount to 15 or 20 hp at like 7000 rpm.

Not a very good investment UNLESS you get those newer Comp Pro Magnum all-steel roller rockers. They won't wear out.

 

I use Comp Pro Magnum rockers. They're made of Stainless steel so they're much stronger and lighter than aluminum rockers and worth the extra money.

I never suggest using roller tip rockers. All the roller tip does is reduce the friction across the top of the valve stem. There isn't much friction there to begin with. All it really does is prevent side loading on the valve.

The greatest friction is the rocker pivot itself. Even a roller tip rocker still uses the ball and socket pivit where there is a high amount of friction. Using a roller rocker eliminates this friction.

If you're going to buy Crane rockers then buy the Gold's. Although the look similar to the Energizer rockers, the pivot is not the same. The Gold rockers have more metal in them making them much stronger. The only way you'll ever see it is if you take one apart.

One of the best benifits of roller rockers is the precise rocker ratio. They'll all be exactly 1.5 (or 1.52). Stamped steel rockers could vary from 1.48 to 1.52 and maybe more or less. That's a big change in valve train geometry and lift from cylinder to cylinder.

 

I think roller tip is kinda useless..but if I HAD to make a choice I would go with whatever is STEEL.

 

Thanks guys, only thing holding me back is my budget, and the fact that I can get a deal on the aluminum rockers with using a summit gift card from a member on this board.


I don't have more than $150 to be spending so the Pro Magnums are out, and it seems most roller rockers in steel are a bit more expensive, oh the decisions.

 

We know you Mark

Champagne taste on a beer budget

Like the rest of us

 

Mark,

for what it's worth, the Pro Magnums are also rebuildable.. I know you mentioned the issue of money... but just an extra thought to add to Stephen 87 Iroc's point. I was also in your position a couple of years back and I started inquiring about roller tips/aluminum roller rockers/etc.. luckily for me, I found enlightenment.

Thereafter, I became a victim of credit cards...:lala:

 

FWIW, after 4 busted valve springs (f***ing TF heads) and 90k miles on a set of Crane Golds I've only had to replace one RR. And only because it looked too badly gouged by the pushrod after one of the spring failures.

 

I have the Comp Pro Magnums and really like them, but your best bet for cheap rockers is just get some of Cranes stamped long slot rockers, they are heat treated and are a great deal for the money $80.00 in Summit, roller rockers are only good for the accurate ratio like Stephen 87 IROC said, and they don't deflect like the stock stamped ones do, and I've read that even the roller tips spend more time sliding across the valve tip than rolling.

 

Yeah, I guess I'm going to wait on roller rockers, and just get some stamped steel aftermarket ones, so I get the extra 1.6 ratio from them.

 

Is there much difference between the Summit stamped steel 1.6 over the Crane stamped steel 1.6 other than $20, I think I'm going to get the summit ones.

 

If the engine is assembled, taking it apart just to put almost the same thing on is going to be a waste of time. Even if it isn't assembled, I probably wouldn't bother. Just wait a year and get something good or find some cheap used ones.

 

well, I just sold my old rockers from the crate engine, I assume they weren't good, just like stock that may have variable ratios, plus now I can get all 1.6s.

ahh well, with selling them, it's like getting half off on 1.6 ones, so not too bad of a deal I guess.