vavle train kinda noisy
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
vavle train kinda noisy
Ever since i put the new cam in, ive noticed more noise then i had with teh old cam. its not really a clicking but more of a mechanical noise coming from the rockers. Ive gone back and adjusted the lash w/ the motor warm by the usual method of turning untill i feel resistance and the add extra 1/2 turn and it didnt elimintate the extra noise. I even jiggled the pushrods up and down a little while spinning them to make sure i was taking all the slack out.
The motor, which is the gmgoodwrench lm1, runs nice and has good power for what it my setup is but the valve train is louder than it was before. Can i just assoiciate this witht eh fact that the valve train that it came with is pure **** or is there something else going on. i dont want to have the valves all overadjusted like they where when i got it. My engine ran like dookie before and id like to avoid that
The motor, which is the gmgoodwrench lm1, runs nice and has good power for what it my setup is but the valve train is louder than it was before. Can i just assoiciate this witht eh fact that the valve train that it came with is pure **** or is there something else going on. i dont want to have the valves all overadjusted like they where when i got it. My engine ran like dookie before and id like to avoid that
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
With an aftermarket cam, even one as relatively weenie as that one, there's a heck of alot more valve motion going on. The lift is greater and the ramps are steeper. All the parts are moving farther and being accelerated faster. It's natural for there to be more noise as you add more cam.
The best way to adjust a hydraulic cam is with the engine running. Back each one off one at a time until it starts to clatter, then tighten it up until it just shuts up. Do all 16 as quickly as possible. Then shut the motor off, and add your ½ turn or whatever of preload. It's much more accurate to do it that way than to fiddle around with jiggling stuff (huh-huh, uh-huh-huh-huh you said jiggle) or any other method, although that is a perfectly good way to set them on a motor that can't be run.
The best way to adjust a hydraulic cam is with the engine running. Back each one off one at a time until it starts to clatter, then tighten it up until it just shuts up. Do all 16 as quickly as possible. Then shut the motor off, and add your ½ turn or whatever of preload. It's much more accurate to do it that way than to fiddle around with jiggling stuff (huh-huh, uh-huh-huh-huh you said jiggle) or any other method, although that is a perfectly good way to set them on a motor that can't be run.
I've had similar experience. RB has clearly identified the source - the ramp of the cam profile. It's even worse with a .510/.520 cam, even with roller lifters. You just have to accept the fact that the valve train is going to make some noise when things are moving that abruptly.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Dimented what cam do have? The Comp XE series and the New Crane Fast Ramp Cams are definetly noisier.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,962
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
see my sig.. I origionally had the same/very similar cam as the one you have in your sig but my engine made wayyyy to much low end torque with that cam and the tbi. It drove me nuts, I couldnt even touch the gas without peeling out. The cam from edelbrock makes the engine at least have a throttle response more resembling a normal car and it powers past 3000 rpm up to around 4500. After 3k, the engine would fall on its face with the old cam.
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