grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I think I have probably read through most of the posts here a few times though. Have been planning to LS swap for a long time, but had to wait til everything lined up. Was trying to find a cheaper engine from a yard and just do a full build but everyone around here wanted an arm and a leg. Thought I found several deals but when it came time to go and pick them up all I got was changed minds or no one answering.

Then I found a local engine and T56 that had already been built a bit. More than I wanted to spend but already has some good stuff on it.

99 LS1/T-56, TSP 228R 112ls cam, hardened push rods, double valve springs, slp underdrive pulley, high flow pump, upgraded timing chain, hurst shifter with a really long rod lol, and the PCM is tuned for the cam. I got pedals and a tank from a 98 with it, which I didn't realize until I showed up it's the metal tank which I don't think I can use. Also got the clutch master, wiring harness etc..



That was all the seller knew was definitely on it, but he didn't build it. The trans was painted black, so I assume it has been out but not sure if built up or just re built. Dunno if it is a stock clutch or upgrade either, or if engine was gone through/honed etc. PO had a $800 carbon fiber drive shaft and a true dual 3" exhaust on it, so I'm hoping he blew some money on other things as well.

So initial plans are to pull a few things off and see exactly what I have and pick up a plastic tank and AC stuff (had been pulled off in previous car). If the trans isn't build I will probably do a tick stage 2, and probably a decent clutch it needs one as well. Depending on how the motor looks I might put the ARP connecting rod bolts and a hone and check the bearings. 243 heads ported and polished with ARP head bolts? Assuming the 853s on there don't have any work done. Change rear to a 3.73 gear. I'm kinda tempted to just throw it in there as is without messing with it, it is running good already. Kinda blew my cash wad on the engine, so any extras also means extra time. I will be cleaning up and smoothing the engine bay and repainting when the engine is out, also relocating the battery to the trunk.

Going to do the Stainless works LTs and then build a Y to connect to my current exhaust. Most likely pre made harness so the car isn't down that long, its running great right now, just not fast enough. Future plans that should be easier to do in the future financially tubular k member and a arms, rack and pinion, re do exhaust, 8.8 rear, Fast 102 and also want to re ring the wheels I have on it now with different tires. Car is really just a weekend cruiser, occasional show car, I don't intent to track it or get to serious, strictly for having fun in.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Pumped to watch this build un-fold.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Nice. I'd be tempted to just throw it in too. Why mess with it. Maybe have it dynoed???? See what it makes?

If you open it up, you know there will be things you will want to change per your preferences. = $$$$$. It sounds like you are doing a pretty heavy build with what you listed above. If you tear into the engine, that list just got longer.

I'd have it dynoed to make sure it runs great and makes the power you want.

Or throw it in as is. But, if it doesnt make the power you want..... then what.....

You got this.

-D

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, been following your build and can't wait to see you get yours done either. Lookin solid so far.

Gonna take a look and see what is inside. If it already has stuff done and compression is good it will probably be going in. If not..well I dunno. Not sure if I will end up pulling it and re doing stuff later if I don't do it now in that case. Would prefer to get this finish and move on to the next thing.

R13_Braz

Very clean car! The difference between stock engine/trans and an LS is worth the wait!

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. Absolutely, it has an L03 right now so it should be a pretty big bump I have been following your thread as well man.


Pulled the trans off to reveal a stock clutch and something leaking. Doesn't smell horrible and lots of fluid behind the flywheel on the block so I'm guessing it's the rear main/timing cover. Clutch looks like the stock LUK, but has defintely been replaced and still has some meat on it. I'm guessing it is the LS6 version since they stopped making the LS1 long ago, but haven't confirmed anything via part numbers yet. The LS7 version has a dish on the flywheel which this one does not seem to have, so I don't think it is that one.

Buggy Disaster

iTrader: (1)

I like what I see!


A LS6 clutch is a lot nicer piece than the LS1 clutch. If you replace it, I would go with the LS7 clutch.

A leaking slave cylinder can throw brake/clutch fluid in really weird places so check that as well. I would replace it anyways. I dont like slave cylinders.


And when/if you replace the rear main seal and the rear main seal cover piece gasket, look up the instructions for the gasket. The gasket does not have any material between the oil pan, and the bottom of the rear main cover. You have to RTV the bottom of the rear main seal cover, or else it will leak. Also, pay close attention to installing that rear main seal. Treat it like gold. And MAKE SURE you install it the correct way. Fly wheel side towards fly wheel. If not, that sucker will be puking oil everywhere once you start the car.


All are simple things to over look when wrenching on a car late at night for hours and hours, and step one to fixing any of those issues, is pulling the trans. Ask me how I know.

R13_Braz

If upgrading, I second the LS7 clutch. I grabbed a set used from a member here with the aluminum flywheel and I'm very happy with it, for now. I'll have to change it out later to one that can handle boosted HP, but the action on this one is great. I also second the slave cylinder... I got mine from O'reilly and no issues with it so far. And it's pretty affordable. I just changed out the fittings to work with the Russel clutch line and stock 3rd gen M/C.

As for the rear cover, I'd suggest doing what I did and just buying the complete unit.. it's only $30-something for it complete. Didn't have to deal with removing and installing the seal, just bolted it on.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Thanks dude. I think I remember hearing that story, will probably just pick up the whole plate. Going to re seal this beast and do slave/TO bearing and a tick stage 2 at the very least. Clutch upgrade is probably last on the list but also one of the last things I have to do. Blew my load on the swap so it is all waiting on fundage from here on out. Plenty to do and think about so no worries tho.

You can just use the Vette clutch/pressure plate/ and flywheel with the LS1 slave and TO bearing right? Or is there a specific application of LS7 you need to use with the LS1? I have pedals and the LS1 master cylinder so no worries there, but I do hear the earlier M.cylinders kinda suck.

Dorman 635-518 for the rear plate right? Then just have to RTV the bottom and bolt it on?

$750 L98

That car is a beauty, definitely deserving of the LS powerplant! Be sure to take tons of pics, and make an excel/google spreadsheet of all the part numbers and tricks you gather along the way. That has helped me a ton in my build.

R13_Braz

Yes to both questions. I just bolted mine right up, and used LS1 hydraulics (except for the 3rd gen master). Also, yes on the rear plate.

WTR388

4000 km on the LS7 clutch, shifts great even at high RPM, no issues with clutch dumps and is good in traffic.
I drilled out the clutch line on the master side, so that might help with the high RPM shifting... May as well do it before you throw it in!
Using stock 3rd gen master on a stock 4th gen line.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, definitely looking forward to it. I plan on taking a ton of pics as well as updating the thread with them. I need to get a spreadsheet going of all the stuff I need for sure! Good idea.

Sweet, I think I can get an LS7 clutch and flywheel through work for sub $300, we will see how much money I have left towards the end lol.

Good to hear, thanks. How much do you drill out the line? Does it matter if I'm using a 4th gen master?

WTR388

I can't remember what size bit I used... I followed a thread from LS1tech. You will feel when the bit goes through the smaller diameter, the thread will explain it.
It's a common "free upgrade", 4th gen guys do it, from what I hear, it's known for the clutch pedal to stick to the floor after a shift at high RPM, supposedly this fixes, or helps with the issue.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I looked it up, sais it is a 1/8th in bit for those wondering.



Intended to get this on the stand and compression test/start tearing it down ect.. But first trip to Harbor Freight I got a 1 ton trolley but it was not wide enough for my I beam in the garage, so I had to go swap stuff out on Sunday. I was also having to stand in line for each item to use my 20% off coupon over and over. So I spent most of the weekend at Harbor Freight lol. All set to move stuff around and hoist the car up when the time comes now though. Booked this weekend so there will no progress for a bit.

I did excell spread sheet my budget and of course it is high. Unless I end up having to wait a long time I think I'm going to need to try and tackle the harness myself.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Not much progress. I did get the harness labeled and pulled off the engine. For the most part it is in good shape but a couple q's down below on this 99 harness.

All labeled up


Are these two wires for the AC switch? They are cut right by where the wiring for injector 7 comes off. Should there be any other AC wiring in the harness? AC was removed from the car and I don't see plugs anywhere. They removed EGR but left the plug tho.



Crank Angle Sensor wires? This was in the same grouping as the oil level sensor so I'm guessing that is what it is. There appears to be a new plug on the CAS so it was probably shoddily connected and pulled off at some point when pulling it or transporting.



How is the alt wiring run? Was there supposed to be anything in with the harness? Or is it all in the battery harness? All I had there was a ground strap and the front left 02 plug.



Got it on the stand and did a hand crank compression test. I tried to use about the same speed to crank each cylinder a few times and got almost dead on results, about 90 psi/cylinder. Did not hear any air coming out of the wrong places. I will probably put it flywheel back on and spin it with the starter, it looks like I have room for it.



I also picked up a 20 ton press at Harbor Freight because they were having another sale. Now I can press my rear gears!

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Still taking it slow. Couldn't fit the flywheel to compression test with the starter so I started pulling it apart. Just got the intake and valve covers off to see what is in there.

Everything looks pretty clean up top. I was told the cam was put in 5k ago and looks about right.


No markings on anything, but best I can find it looks like the PRC dual spring kit with Ti retainers.


I was told it had hardened push rods in it. But these defininately look stock to me. Can anyone confirm? No markings at all.



Stock valves as well it looks like?

R13_Braz

Those do look like stock pushrods. Not sure on the valves.

I'd like to strongly suggest you get the Comp trunion upgrade kit. Have a machine shop soda-blast the rockers, install the kit and be content knowing that you eliminated a potential failure point. Really easy to do, especially with that press you bought. Took me about 1.5 hours to do all 16 with my press.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Yes, on the list now that I know it hasn't been done along with LS7 lifters/new trays and apparently hardened push rods now as well

I have decided to do some DIY porting on the heads too. Not sure if I am going to take them in and get a shop to cut the seats or just hand port what I can and call it a day.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Is this in need of a light hone and re ring? There is some very faint cross hatching still there, but mostly polished cylinder walls. Not boosting or NOS but hopefully hit somewhere close to 400 at the wheels. This is 2 different cylinders, but they all pretty much look like this.




Torn down to a short block. Looks pretty clean, no gunk in the water jackets, cam looks good. They did put new head gaskets on with the cam swap it appears, they are VR.



Are these LS7 lifters? All the ones I see have the smaller area with the step down on the top. However the clip is not yellow (or at least not anymore?). I might replace them anyways just to try and cut down on the infamous LS tick.





Gotten a bunch of new air tools and cutting grinding burrs, cones etc etc

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

For those needing it I did find the Helms manuals for the LS cars posted online. I looked through the 99' since that is the year of engine I have. The engine stuff starts on page 1021 and the stuff for internal engine inspection procedures starts at page 1233. I couldn't find any good resources for this anywhere, +1 for the Helm manual. Probably some good info on wiring diagrams ect in there as well.

https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

R13_Braz

This is what I used during my build.

How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines (S-A Design) https://www.amazon.com/dp/193249460X/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_uirowb302H911

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Looks like its going to be a good build! They do look like stock style pushrods... they do make hardened ones that look just like stock. My only knowledge of hardened pushrods is that its just the surface hardening so they don't wear out when using pushrod guides. I personally dont think they are neccessary on a stock style motor without pushrod guides and if your going to upgrade to go to 1 peice moly versions for the strength.

Interested to learn about the trunion upgrades. Do the OEM's have a history of failing? I just threw a 150k 99 5.3LS into my firebird. All I did was swap over to an Fbody oil pan and I swapped the stock valve springs to LS6 OEM springs to help handle the boost. I did check each rocker and they seemed fine (some had alittle play but nothing that I would think was alarming). BUt I'm not running a cam yet, just going to throw 10-12psi at a stock 5.3 and let it eat... to the tune of 550-600hp.

R13_Braz

The OEM trunion bearings are uncaged needle bearings. If they ever fail, they'll get sucked into your oil passages and then it's bye bye motor. The upgrade kit has caged bearings, as well as a stronger trunion. Cheap insurance for long motor life in my opinion.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

hmmm thanks! Guess I'll put that on my to-do list if I ever pull it apart to do a cam swap. Do you have any idea how much the OEM rocker (with trunion upgrade) LS6 springs and OEM pushrods can handle with aftermarket cams? Duration and lift?

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I had been looking at that. Will probably add it to my cart for the next Amazon purchase. Which looks like will be pretty soon since the micrometers and bore guage I was going to get through work have apparently been on order for 3 months lol.

The "hardened" push rods should be a harder material, but I assume most are case hardened as well for the situation you described with the guides. When you go with a bigger cam and stiffer springs the stock ones are more likely to bend, just cheap insurance.

I don't think the trunion upgrade has a HP rating. It is more insurance for it they do fail it doesn't grenade the engine. I'm sure they can handle a bit more power and higher revs though. I think the LS6 springs are only good to 550 lift. Most would recommend a spring kit for most any aftermarket cam.

R13_Braz

LS6 springs are only worth keeping if you are running a LS6 cam or a similar mild one. Cheap, but not worth it in the long run. I'm running PSI LS1511ML I picked up for $100 used. Even if you can't get used, they are worth the money. Fantastic spring.

When I did the trunion upgrade, I checked several of the old bearings as I removed them. Over half of the needle bearings were either stuck, damaged, or had some rust... and the motor I got had 90k miles on it. Another reason to do the upgrade as opposed to getting aftermarket rockers is that the stock rockers are lighter, and generally stronger than aftermarket... the trunion and bearings are the weak link. Aftermarket rockers are a lot heavier, which affects the valve train negatively, in my opinion. Plus, $100 to upgrade as opposed to $300-600 is a plus. lol

R13_Braz

I bought it primarily for the torque sequences/values, as well as for certain procedures. It is completely worth the money. I've assembled LS motors before, but I didn't want to risk missing out on a crucial step and pay the price later.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Looks like a titally stock engine with a cam and springs. Those are stock push rods. All aftermarkets Ive seen are smooth the full length. Only the stockers have a ball on the tips. If your other cycl head is on still Id check the cyl head bolts under the valve covers. If they're baked brown, then the heads have never been off. 5k is not enough mileage to permanently stain the bolts. Those lifter look stock with some miles on them. Cyls look fine, but Ive seen 300k mile engine that look like that

That is your AC compressor clutch wire that got snipped

Alt is easy and often breaks. Single 20ga red wire to the B terminal

Those might be the crank sensor wires. Check colors to confirm: Yel/blk, LT GRN, DK BLU/WHT. Most important sensor in the whole harness. On the bright side you can use a common MAF sensor connector from any 90's GM car to replace it

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Hey he's back! Thanks, Pocket that helps a lot. And I think you are right, it looks like just a cam kit, and I'm pretty sure it has been in there more than 5k. Heads had been pulled, it had Victor Reinz gaskets on, but they looked pretty beat. Head bolt heads were browned but not really baked with oil like the pushrods. I will clean up the "crank sensor" wires and make sure that is them. It looks like they put a new plug on it but grabbed some random connectors to connect it. Cam lobes look ok, but I'm going to pull it and inspect the bearings and put new lifters in. Also will be re ringing/scoring the walls and checking, most likely replacing the mains.

Not much progress this weekend, pulled the trans apart and it looks like it has had a rebuild but just stock. Trans was really dry as was the engine. I guess the guy drained them before I picked it up. Looks clean inside not a lot of metal on the magnets, but who knows how long ago it was apart. Getting a stage to tick kit and the Viper 2nd gear for sure now. Had to re set the engine on the stand to pull the oil pan. Rear timing cover had one of the long bolts broke off in it, so I definitely need the Dorman one now since I decided to cut it to pull it off... Ran out of time to pull the balancer, front cover, and oil pan tho.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

And the normal Monday update.


More tools came, yay.. I really hope I'm done buying tools



Good news, end play is good, and crank is straight.



Bad news engine did not have high flow oil pump or upgraded tchain like I was told.



More bad news Balance was already looking kinda rough, but did not make it past removal, probably my fault but it was most likely getting replaced anyways cause it looked bent.



Comp Cams VS tool works awesome. Don't know if it is worth the cost, but it made this super easy.




Was almost kicking myself for already ordering connecting rod bearings because they were so clean.


That is until I hit cylinder #5. Still not bad though. Mains were all a little rough so I'm going to get it polished. Nothing crazy though, looks good for the mileage.


These are stock rod bolts right? They did not have any ferrels on them so I was kind of confused. They very well might have done the connecting rod bearings before, they were super clean. Not sure why they would remove the ferrels if they weren't doing different bolts though.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Yup, looks like the stock rod bolts. Any bolt with that marking on the head is a torque to yield bolt. Mostly just the rods, and head bolts are tq to yield.

I couldn't justify the cost of the the comp valve spring removal tool either... while it would be nice I'm not removing valve springs all day and alot to make the tool worth it. I used the $25 tool off ebay and it worked great. Only difference is that it does 1 valve at a time. But it only took me 1 hr to do 16 valves and replace them with LS6 springs.

R13_Braz

I too went with the cheap ebay tool and it was worth it. After the first head, I had it down to a science lol. 2 sets of heads in about an hour, with cleaning of the valve guides.

Get a better balancer anyway. I picked one up off of summit for $90ish I think and it's a good quality one. My only complaint is the puller I bought specifically for LS doesn't work with it.. had to use a steering wheel puller to take it back off.

Sucks about the pump and chain, but personally I never trust the sellers word. Way to many people attempt to rip you off, and on something like that which you can't directly see... yeah. Easy enough to upgrade yourself, honestly.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully the tool will get more use in the future. I should have just made one like the ebay tool to be honest. Was kind of on the fence about replacing the chain and pump even if it was upgraded. The titanium retainers and seats kind of offset the other stuff that wasn't in there when I pulled it apart. So now it will just get everything!

Going to drop off stuff probably at MTI tomorrow and have the crank polished, weld in the pry mark on the heads and have them milled down a little.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

So I grabbed my stuff to take to MTI for machine work last night and realized I haven't bothered looking to make sure it has the cam the guy said. I just looked at the lobe wear. So sure enough I find these weird numbers on the cam...



It was supposedly a TSP 228R with 112 LSA which I was thinking was a tad on the small side but do able at 228/228 .600/.600 112. However it is a Comp Cams 54-426-11 So it is only 222/224 .556/.568 112 LSA... Now I'm pissed lol.

But Crank is getting polished. Heads are getting milled .018 which should get the CC down to what a 243 runs, and pry bar mark is getting welded in so I can run .040 MLS gaskets instead of graphite.

So what cam to get now?! I'd like a good bit of idle lope so I will probably stay 112 LSA. Don't think I want to go much over .600 lift, but I can probably handle higher than a 228? Just a street car, but it is not a daily. Push rods don't matter since I'm going to have to size them anyways.

TSP is running a sale now

http://texas-speed.com/p-1154-texas-...-camshaft.aspx

But Vengeance is local and will probably do the tune at some point, will probably be similarly priced some time this month?

http://vengeanceracing.net/1998-2002...592-112-2.html

Or is this one too much?

http://vengeanceracing.net/1998-2002...609-112-4.html

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Heads and cam back, heads milled .018 and polished crank. Also had the "pry notch" welded so I can run MLS gaskets.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Went ham on some parts sales last weekend. Stuff is starting to come in.

Motor and trans mounts from Hawks along with a stage 2 T56 kit and viper 2nd gear. Sent me a free thirdgen shirt too, thanks guys.


Vengeance still waiting on cam and trunion kit, but I got the crank bolt and lifter trays in already. Would love to get more local but the tax kinda kills any deal I might get.


Had the week off last week and instead of assembly I decided the block was aluminum and it could be polished. And of course it could.. but now I have to do the other side, heads, t cover, brackets etc.. I just set my build back at least a month lol.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Car looks really clean & nice. You will love driving it with LS when you are done.
Look into Alston SFCs. They are inner and will beef up whatever is going on with any outer SFCs you probably have.
You got an Aluminum Block! I bet your car will be way up in the air. Mine was. Took some doing to get it back down.
Looks like you already have a new cam in the works, but that 222/224 cam will give you lots of power.
Get pushrods.
Upgrade Trunions.
Get LS6 intake manifold (if that wasn't done). Port it and the Throttle Body- makes things run smooth and quick.
3.73s with that or more cam. I have 3.42s and my small Crane cam is the limit for them.
Enjoy.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Flip, thanks!

Have contemplated inner SFC, but not tackling extra chassis stuff right now. I have enough going on lol. Running Hotchkis SFCs right now.

Yes will have to re adjust springs afterwards, not the first time.

I went with a bigger cam, so more power

Have the measuring tool coming so I can get a length on push rods.

Trunions on the way too.

Will probably end up with a Fast, but waiting to see how funding holds out on the swap.

Was planning on 3.73 gears as well, just need to find a used set when the time comes.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Not much progress. Got the cast sanded off of the other side of the block, should be polished up next weekend and hopefully start porting the heads or polishing the WP/brackets etc.. I've decided I need to get that done before I start assembly so I can clean everything up good as it makes a huge mess.

Bunch of parts showed up. A cam came from Vengeance but it wasn't the right one.. still waiting to hear back from them.

R13_Braz

Keep an eye on Ebay for the gears. I got a locker carrier with 3.73's in pristine condition for $200.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You'll like those Holley valve covers, but be aware you need the LS3/7 coils with them. Your LS1's and common truck coils do not fit

I also recommend running individual coil wires for the most tidy install

This


Vs this


Also, know they are not baffled so run an inline PCV or drilled out nylon set screw like Im doing. 3/8" set screw with 1/16" hole drilled through the middle

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Dang, I saw this pic and I though I could use the LS1 coils.. now I'm seeing that they only have one bolt on the coils here lol.



I was planning on by passing that giant plug. Do you know if it is just same color to same color, or do I need to trace the pin outs from the male and female connectors?

Curious to see your PVC set up too. It looks like there is a vent on both sides but no place for a one way valve (PCV valve). Will in line cause excess oil? On the cover you at least have gravity on your side, but once it is in the hose the oil is getting pushed through. I'm not planning on running a catch can so.. hmm...

Thanks Pocket.

Yes, I have a Torsen posi already, used gears are < $100 all day. My last set I got brand new take outs from GMMG for free from all the conversions they did. But I haven't talked to those guys in a couple years.



Hunting for AC bracket and compressor right now so I can finish up polishing and start assembly. Going to get the barbell and all the plugs for the block too, I forgot about those.

R13_Braz

Since you aren't running a catch can, I'd suggest using the LS6 valley cover. It has a built in setup to prevent the oil from getting drawn into the intake.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131562598287?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
I've capped off both ports that are on the stock valve covers and am running the single outlet off the valley cover directly into the throttle body using this hose:

http://www.improvedracing.com/air-fu...ductsearchusen

I have 0 issues with Oil consumption.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

This method wont work properly. The baffled valley cover is good for extracting dirty gasses from the engine just like the drivers valve cover. The engine still needs fresh air to enter the crankcase. Leave the drivers VC capped but run the pass VC port to the upper port on the TB

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, something to think about. LS6 valley would eliminate that big hose running all over the back of the engine too.

R13_Braz

I need to go back and look at what I did then. I don't recall running a fresh air hose (though I would have had to or it'd have had serious issues). LS6 valley cover is worth it for the oil consumption block, alone... aesthetics are just a plus lol.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

In a nut shell, you're moving the dirty air port from the rear drivers side to the front valley cover. The hose delete is just part of it

R13_Braz

Obviously, you are absolutely correct sir. I went back and took a look... and (I'm 100% serious on this) I have all ports capped off. No idea what I was thinking, but I have no fresh air hose.

Which begs the question... how the hell is it running well? Vacuum is always within range for the cam, oil always comes out looking relatively clean (considering my rings are gapped for boost)... I'm at a loss at how this has worked fine for over 1k miles now without a way for fresh air to get in properly.

Needless to say, I'm going to run a line and see what happens.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Should keep it from sucking up oil too, not sure if worth $90 or not.


The LS3 coils take the same plug right?