how would this do?
how would this do?
alright heres the plan so far, feel free to make any changes, but keep in mind im on a budget, ive got an 89 L98 in my 87 GTA, so far I've got headers into 3"flowmaster and thats about it. These are my planned modifications:
Stealth ram in place of TPI
Put in new cam possibly a crane compucam (not certain on size yet, suggestions would be nice)
Swap stock heads for corvette aluminum heads
2,400 b&m holeshot converter
buy prom burning equipment to burn my own chips
Where would this roughly get me? Low to mid 13's?
What else would I have to do?
Thanks for any suggestions/criticism/ideas
Stealth ram in place of TPI
Put in new cam possibly a crane compucam (not certain on size yet, suggestions would be nice)
Swap stock heads for corvette aluminum heads
2,400 b&m holeshot converter
buy prom burning equipment to burn my own chips
Where would this roughly get me? Low to mid 13's?
What else would I have to do?
Thanks for any suggestions/criticism/ideas
68,
I see a couple of seemingly contradictory items in your list. A 2,400 RPM stall converter is not much different than the factory stall speed. It's an improvement, but nothing substantial. And raising the launch RPM and torque range of the engine isn't going to be well supported by the Comp-U-Cam, which is still essentially a torque enhancing design for the lower RPM TPI system, with only a little more upper RPM breathing.
Also, if you are changing the heads, the aluminum Corvette L98 heads are not much of an improvement over the iron L98 heads. You'll get more flow improvement from porting your stock iron heads and increasing the valve and bowl size than you will by bolting on another pair of stock heads. You might want to consider shopping around for aftermarket heads to see what is available and what works for your combination. The prices for complete heads might be more attractive than used heads and any necessary machine work they would require.
Personally, I would save the cash fromthe Stealth Ram purchase. Buy an air compressor and die grinder (or a heavy duty electric dir grinder). You'll do a lot more to improve flow with them than a bolt on part. And you'll always have them for future projects. The first thing you'll want to do with it is to port the intake plenum behind the throttle body. This is a fairly restrictive area, and on the L98s the breathing is most important.
You might also want to address the fuel delivery, which can be done with injectors or an AFPR, and/or EPROM tuning.
Spend some time on the PROM board and find out what works. The Pocket Programmer II is a good value in EPROM writers, and they have very good customer support. Tuner Cat is also a good, fairly easy software package to use for editing the binary files, and isn't terribly expensive.
After you realize what you can do with a little modification and tuning, you may reevaluate your bolt-on parts selections.
I see a couple of seemingly contradictory items in your list. A 2,400 RPM stall converter is not much different than the factory stall speed. It's an improvement, but nothing substantial. And raising the launch RPM and torque range of the engine isn't going to be well supported by the Comp-U-Cam, which is still essentially a torque enhancing design for the lower RPM TPI system, with only a little more upper RPM breathing.
Also, if you are changing the heads, the aluminum Corvette L98 heads are not much of an improvement over the iron L98 heads. You'll get more flow improvement from porting your stock iron heads and increasing the valve and bowl size than you will by bolting on another pair of stock heads. You might want to consider shopping around for aftermarket heads to see what is available and what works for your combination. The prices for complete heads might be more attractive than used heads and any necessary machine work they would require.
Personally, I would save the cash fromthe Stealth Ram purchase. Buy an air compressor and die grinder (or a heavy duty electric dir grinder). You'll do a lot more to improve flow with them than a bolt on part. And you'll always have them for future projects. The first thing you'll want to do with it is to port the intake plenum behind the throttle body. This is a fairly restrictive area, and on the L98s the breathing is most important.
You might also want to address the fuel delivery, which can be done with injectors or an AFPR, and/or EPROM tuning.
Spend some time on the PROM board and find out what works. The Pocket Programmer II is a good value in EPROM writers, and they have very good customer support. Tuner Cat is also a good, fairly easy software package to use for editing the binary files, and isn't terribly expensive.
After you realize what you can do with a little modification and tuning, you may reevaluate your bolt-on parts selections.
oh ok, then how about the afr 190 heads? and could you suggest the best cam for me to purchase? I will be buying this stuff one part at a time as I am in high school. Also, what lph injectors should I get? And, from what I've heard, buying an aftermarket chip is pretty much useless? I talked to a couple guys who put in "stage 2" chips and said they could feel a difference so im kind of at odds here. any info would be great
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Man, Vader, you sure stomped my ego with your cam and converter comments...
Actually, I think they work well together. True, more stall would be good for the strip, but for daily driving (which is its primary purpose in life), the combo works very well together. Of course, I have carb, so TPI would actually enhance low end and hurt top end.
You didn't mention runners. I'd say go along the lines Vader suggested, get better (shorter, fatter) runners to improve flow capacity and raise the RPM range. For sure forget the Stealth and Vette heads stuff (lots of $'s, next to zero HP gain). Your current injectors should be fine with an AFPR.
Actually, I think they work well together. True, more stall would be good for the strip, but for daily driving (which is its primary purpose in life), the combo works very well together. Of course, I have carb, so TPI would actually enhance low end and hurt top end.
You didn't mention runners. I'd say go along the lines Vader suggested, get better (shorter, fatter) runners to improve flow capacity and raise the RPM range. For sure forget the Stealth and Vette heads stuff (lots of $'s, next to zero HP gain). Your current injectors should be fine with an AFPR.







