Basically I need to know if this problem resides within the wiring or within the starter itself. One night, my car just wouldn't start. I have an L98 with a Powermaster XS Torque mini starter. When I would try to start the car, all I'd hear is a really fast clicking sound like the bendix gear wasn't fully engaging the flywheel. I think I actually heard clicking because the starter needed a shim when I installed it, but didn't have one. Had one been there, I think I would have just heard the bendix spinning. I don't think it was ever "popping" out to engage the flywheel.
Anyhow, I took the starter out, and had it tested, and it looked fine. The bendix popped out and spun just like it was supposed to. It seemed like it kinda stuck the first try, but I don't know if that was due to a bad connection on my part with the jumper wire between the BAT and IGN terminals. After testing it, I reinstalled the starter with one shim, wired it back up, and the car starts fine. I don't know exactly why taking it out and testing it fixed the problem, and I'd like to. I want to know how I can keep this problem from happening again. Any help is appreciated.

Sean

 

That "clicking" behavior is almost always caused by a bad connection somewhere. And it's almost always at the battery terminals.

Probably, when you disconnected and re-connected the batt cable during the process, you fixed the problem.

 

i have a rebiult powermaster starter by monroes. when i have less than 12.6volts at the solinod the starter makes a clickin noise. that clickin noise may be due to low current. check your wiring

 

I agree with the others sounds like your wiring. However I am not clear if your car had been running or if it was cold. On my car the headers and y pipe both heat the starter solinoid and after a year or so the heat ruins it. It starts fine when engine is cold and then sometimes it wont start after i shut car off after a drive.

 

I'm thinking wiring too, but I don't know what to do to prevent the issue. I tested the voltage and resistance from the battery to the starter, and I'm getting pretty much no resistance and 12.1 Volts to the starter. Maybe it's time I buy a new battery and alternator. Should also remove and clean the negative battery to engine block wire.

 

I'd have the alternator checked by a shop that specializes in that. They can also check your starter. No need in spending money if you dont need too.

 

I've had my alternator checked and it always comes out ok. My only gripe is that sometimes when I first start my car, the voltage sits real low like the alternator isn't working. From there, I either have to turn the car of and restart it, or turn off some accessories and rev it up a couple times to get the alternator to kick in and the voltage to go up. Also, when I'm idling with nothing on, my voltage reading looks fine, up a little above 13 volts. But if I have my stereo going (in the 300 Watt range), the headlights on, and another something going whether it be the blower motor, rear window defroster, etc..., the voltage will drop way down under 13 volts at idle and all the lights dim. It almost seems like I have a resistor or stator that's not working. I just figured I'd pick up a Powermaster 140Amp alternator and take care of it all.