Already decided on a Scat 9000 Series crank, now what would be the easiest rods to use for clearance with a stock base circle cam?

Eagle "ESP" 4340 H-beam rods with ARP 8740 screws?

Eagle "ESP" 4340 H-beam rods with ARP 2000 bolt upgrade?

Eagle "ESP" 4340 H-beam rods with L-19 bolt upgrade?

These rods say stroker profiled, what exactly does that mean

Scat 4340 H-beam rods with ARP 8740 rod bolts (Fully Profiled for Stroker Engines)

Scat 4340 I-beam rods with cap screws

Scat 4130 I-beams with ARP WaveLoc bolts

Scat 4130 I-beams with 7/16" cap screw bolts

 

I would not put a Scat product of any kind on any motor I was building, or any other chinesium part, for that matter.

The Eagle H-beam rods with the 8740 cap screws are the strongest of the ones you have listed. Whether or not you need them, is a different matter. I believe that cheap crank will protect your rods from ever seeing enough stress for the bolt grade to be an issue. The intended use of the motor falls into the same category; if this motor is going to have TPI on it for instance, that will protect anything at all, even the cheap crank, from stress.

If you look at a stock style rod, you'll notice that they have a bolt pressed in from the rod side, and a nut that goes onto the cap side. The place where the bolt goes, plus the height of the bolt, is what you have to do clearance work to clear. A cap-screw rod doesn't have that big blob of metal hanging off of it in exactly the wrong place, to where it will hit the block. There's nothing special in that regard about the Scat H-beam; any cap-screw rod shares the same shape.

Look at Lunati and Manley at least, they are far higher quality parts than Scat.

http://www.manleyperformance.com/manley03conrods.pdf Go down to page 10, there's a good pic of the typical shape of a cap-screw H-beam rod. Compare that to a stock-style bolt-and-nut rod.

Don't buy parts from the low bidder.

 

I'll agree to an extent...depends on the use of the engine the crank is going in.

As for rod bolt clearance, you can use the 4.3 rod bolts offered by ARP...they are for a 6 cylinder, so you have to order 2 extra The bolt heads are already "clearanced", and remember a 4.3 V-6 is a 350 minus two cylinders.

But yeah, with the crank you've chosen, the rods, even if properly prepped stockers, won't be your weak spot.

All depends on what your intentions are for the engine your building.




HTH

 

I take it "chinesium" is a phrase that you coined on this board. I am interested in why you put down Scat products and in other posts you recommend Eagle products. To my knowledge SCAT has been in business for a long time, and MANY people have used their product. There are tons of people making in the 450-500 rwhp range with them. I mean sure they aren't a 1,200 Cola crank or a 800.00 Callies dragonslayer. I know they aren't that good or strong, but they are only around 200.00. I am trying to build a motor for someone on a tight budget who can't afford a 383 stroker for 6000-7000

 

McDonalds has been in business a long time, and many people have used their products. But I think we all know places we can go to get a better hamburger.

Good example of a "logical fallacy".... "It's popular, so therefore it must be good".

Look on the box. "Made in ....." That should give you a clue.

It's worth spending $20 more for a product that's made by somebody that actually gives a s*** how it turns out when you're already spending $500 or whatever.

The last time I stopped by Lunati over there on Highway 78 by Shelby Dr. and bought a US-made new 400 crank, it was well under $300.

By the time this motor is built, the money "saved" by buying a cheap off-shore crank will disappear in the noise floor. On the other hand, the money that will have to be spent again to clean up the mess when it fails, is something that can't be ignored. And there's no price you can put on the aggravation of parts that don't quite fit exactly like you planned. I don't know if you ever built any stroker motors before; but I'll tell you, buying the cheeeepest parts you can find that claim to fit and then having to make them actually work, can be a real eye-opening experience.

 

i find it weird that people in general reccomend other import products but scat gets zero'd out constantly.......

i used their rods in my 383, and had learence issues, because i thought i had the profiled one, but instead i didn't, and had to grind it a little even with a small base circle cam........

what people don't seem to realize is eagle is imported as well.....

well the raw forging's atleast.... then they do the final crafting to the rod just like scat does.......

for an engine that will be turning 6-7000 rpm, i would reccomend a good profiled h beam to be on the safe side...... this way you know that even if the motor goes, you tried by putting the best ya could in it.....

personally, sat,eagle and others are good rods, and have been used by people like westech, and tea just to name a few......

i think the biggest problem i have encounterd in thirdgens from what i hear is bearings...... everyone spins them... my teachers iroc, and when i spun mine the damn thing mushed out it was so bad.....

just put ya some good berings in and get ya a profiled h beam and be done with it.....

good luck and i hope it works out for ya!!

badgta