IAC help
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Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,388
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From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
IAC help
I assume that would be the equiv part. the BAC (bypass air control) on my car has a valve that must be stuck open. it is there to help let a little more air bypass the throttle when the A/C or some other load gets put on the motor at an idle
I assume your IAC is the same part
so how do you get that valve to unstick?
I assume your IAC is the same part
so how do you get that valve to unstick?
BFH.
Or, HMX, RDX, or some other high-explosive.
If you can't get those readilty, pour in about 10cc of pure glycerine fluid. Add a little nitric acid (very carefully), then stand back about 200 yards and use your remote starter. The air control will no longer be stuck - guaranteed.
Seriously, I'm presuming the control is not a stepper motor like GM uses, but a PWM solenoid arrangement more like what Ford uses. The solenoid is pulsed rapidly to admit a controlled volume of bypass or idle air to compensate for load changes. You should be able to verify that by metering the voltage to the control. If you have only 2 wires, it's likely the PWM (pulse-width-modulated) solenoid type. Dirt is the worst enemy of any air control, moisture is a close second.
Or, HMX, RDX, or some other high-explosive.
If you can't get those readilty, pour in about 10cc of pure glycerine fluid. Add a little nitric acid (very carefully), then stand back about 200 yards and use your remote starter. The air control will no longer be stuck - guaranteed.

Seriously, I'm presuming the control is not a stepper motor like GM uses, but a PWM solenoid arrangement more like what Ford uses. The solenoid is pulsed rapidly to admit a controlled volume of bypass or idle air to compensate for load changes. You should be able to verify that by metering the voltage to the control. If you have only 2 wires, it's likely the PWM (pulse-width-modulated) solenoid type. Dirt is the worst enemy of any air control, moisture is a close second.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,388
Likes: 2
From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
I think your right on this being a PWM type control. will check tomorrow though
but how could I go about getting the thing unstuck? or is it only down to buying another one?
it was fine one moment...shut the car off turn it back on and it is now stuck open
but how could I go about getting the thing unstuck? or is it only down to buying another one?
it was fine one moment...shut the car off turn it back on and it is now stuck open
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 3
From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
With an IAC, you can clean them with carb cleaner.
According to a friend who owns a Ford truck, there's something inside them that doesn't like carb cleaner. Seems like he said it was the plunger.
No idea abt a Mazda, but if you don't see any plastic, I'd try to clean it with some B-12. If you hose it up, you can always replace it.
According to a friend who owns a Ford truck, there's something inside them that doesn't like carb cleaner. Seems like he said it was the plunger.
No idea abt a Mazda, but if you don't see any plastic, I'd try to clean it with some B-12. If you hose it up, you can always replace it.
I've removed teh air controls on Ford EFIs and cleaned/lubed them with no problems. The valve poppet itself (between the two chambers) may be plastic, but the solenoid and plunger are metallic. Take care to keep the harsh cleaners out of the solenoid coils, since the insulation on the windings may be damaged by some solvents. I've used regular old Stoddard (basically naptha) without problems. They are easy to remove, so cleaning them on the vehicle may not be the best method.
As for the Wankels, I have no clues about the mounting arrangement, but your symptoms certainly sound familiar. Check the voltage to the solenoid. If you have pulses, you shold check the resistance of the solenoid coil. If you have a reasonable resistance (50-250 ohms) the windings are probably O.K. and the issue may be dirt or mechanical damage.
As for the Wankels, I have no clues about the mounting arrangement, but your symptoms certainly sound familiar. Check the voltage to the solenoid. If you have pulses, you shold check the resistance of the solenoid coil. If you have a reasonable resistance (50-250 ohms) the windings are probably O.K. and the issue may be dirt or mechanical damage.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,388
Likes: 2
From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
thanx for the help guys
just curious would WD-40 or air intake cleaner work without harming anything?
and yeah the car would just sit there and idle at 1500 rpms so I guess it was stuck open. I ended up removing the hose that goes to it so it is more or less disabled at the moment... blocked the hose with a cough drop bag
gotta love ghetto fix
but would there be any harm in just removing it?
drives fine without it unless it's cold then it just wants t odie all the time
just curious would WD-40 or air intake cleaner work without harming anything?
and yeah the car would just sit there and idle at 1500 rpms so I guess it was stuck open. I ended up removing the hose that goes to it so it is more or less disabled at the moment... blocked the hose with a cough drop bag
gotta love ghetto fix but would there be any harm in just removing it?
drives fine without it unless it's cold then it just wants t odie all the time
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