Dont hear fuel pump come on when I turn the key on. Does it have its own fuse?
Need help fast, car is on side of road...

 

Here is a little more info, I called my son from where my car quit running and had him post that. I just got it back on the road yesterday after putting a cam in, AFPR,SVO injectors and other misc. upgrades. I drove it to work and back last night and it was running fine, today on my way to work it quit on me like it ran out of gas. The fuel pump does not come on when I turn the key on, and there is no fuel pressure. It did run when I put a little gas in the throttle body, but just until it used what I put in there. The fuel pump is only about 2 years old. Could it be the relay?

 

This is a connector between the fuel pump fuse and the positive battery cable, what would cause this? The plastic above the orange wire is melted.

1990GTA has attached this image:

 

Okay, here's the picture.

 

Does anyone have any idea what may have caused this? I am pretty sure this is why my fuel pump is not coming on.

 

GTA,

Obviously, the pump current is exceeding what the connections can deliver without heating. Is the fuse a 20A? IIRC, it should be 20A from the factory. If your pump is drawing more current as a result of the higher rail pressures, marginal connections may have suffered. Check the voltage on both sides of the fuseholder. You should find your answer there.

More current creates more heat. More heat creates more resistance. More resistance reduces the voltage. And lower voltage creates a higher current requirement to compensate. The effect is a cascade, until something fails. You're fortunate that only a connector failed. I believe you can get a new inline fuseholder to splice into the harness (soldered and sealed, of course).

 

Thanks, I am glad someone replied. I hate electronics and know nothing about them The fuse is a 20 A, when you say to check the voltage on both sides of the fuseholder you mean check the red wire and the orange wire? Can this be done with a multimeter and what range should I be looking for? I was going to splice a new plastic connector in but is there something I can do to keep this from happening again or maybe with a new connector it won't happen again? You say to get a new inline fuseholder, are you saying put this in place of the plastic connector? The orange and red wire go into a fuseable link that is also on the positive battery cable, can I assume the fuseable is no good either? I am attempting to attach a picture labeled A, B, and C "B" being the burnt connection. I appreciate all your help. A is the fuel pump fuse and C is the fuseable link.

 

Possible that the continuity is poor at the connector causing heating and melting the plastic housing.

With a very small file, clean the connectors. The will be some corrosion and melted plastic on the contacts of the connectors. You have to get it all out for metal-2-metal contact.

 

I am really starting to think that it is my fuel pump. I called the dealer about a relay and he told me most of them are the same part #. With this in mind, I switched the relay with another one that I knew was working, still nothing. I also cleaned up the metal connections on that melted connector and plugged it back in, still nothing. I think I know what melted that also, when I was putting the driver side valve cover on it hit the back bolt on the alternator a couple times (then I disconnected the battery) The wires that go to this connector go into the wire that goes to the alternator so I dont think that is the problem with the fuel pump. Like I said the fuel pump is only about 2 years old, but I did get it at Autozone. Is it possible that it is already shot? With the new cam and 24# svo injectors it is working harder but it only ran 2 days! This is killing me, I just got the car going and had my exhaust put on Thursday and this happened Friday.

 

one way to check the fuel pump is you can put a 12 volt wire to the lower left pin on the ALDL under the dash. it will bypass everything and give current to the pump in the tank. when you do this, the pump should come on. if not, then the only other thing to do is check it where it connects to the body under the car. if it still does not come on, then it's the pump.

 

Is this the ALDL? If so, do I just run a wire from my positive battery cable to the bottom hole on the far left or to the one on the bottom with the silver connection showing? (The far left hole does not appear to have a connection in it)

 

yes that's the ALDL port. use the lower left one to supply voltage to the pump.

 

It must be the pump, I put 12v right to the gray wire coming out of the tank, and it did not come on. Thanks for the replies.