hydrualic to roller?
Your '92 305, if it's the factory engine, is already (hydraulic) roller so need some clarification on which one of the following is true:
1.) you mean solid roller
2.) you're talking about another engine (specify what it is)
3.) you're an idiot
Let us know which path you're on.
1.) you mean solid roller
2.) you're talking about another engine (specify what it is)
3.) you're an idiot
Let us know which path you're on.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
QUite easy.
You can do the same thing all the rest of us had been doing for all those decades that we've been building roller motors, before the factory "invented" their bizarre twisted approach to rollers, and re-invented the wheel but came out with a triangle instead.
You use what are now referred to as "retrofit" roller lifters, which are joined together in pairs by cylinder with a link to prevent them from turning; a roller cam, of the "retrofit" variety; and a cam button, which is a little thrust roller bearing or plastic button, to keep the cam from walking out the front ot the block. Push rod length is almost always different from the ones for flat tappets, usually about .400" shorter. No machine work, no special blocks, no modifications to anything at all, just slap it in and go. It's just too easy. I fail to understand why the factory took such an expensive turn down a dirt road to do what they did, and came up with something so inferior and full of problems and expensive in that it required new block castings and machine processes.
You can do the same thing all the rest of us had been doing for all those decades that we've been building roller motors, before the factory "invented" their bizarre twisted approach to rollers, and re-invented the wheel but came out with a triangle instead.
You use what are now referred to as "retrofit" roller lifters, which are joined together in pairs by cylinder with a link to prevent them from turning; a roller cam, of the "retrofit" variety; and a cam button, which is a little thrust roller bearing or plastic button, to keep the cam from walking out the front ot the block. Push rod length is almost always different from the ones for flat tappets, usually about .400" shorter. No machine work, no special blocks, no modifications to anything at all, just slap it in and go. It's just too easy. I fail to understand why the factory took such an expensive turn down a dirt road to do what they did, and came up with something so inferior and full of problems and expensive in that it required new block castings and machine processes.
Good deal! 
You thinking hydraulic roller, or solid roller? Pretty close cost involved either way, the solid will involve periodic lash setting.
If hydraulic roller, look into retrofit kits from Crane and Comp Cams for an idea of the parts and cost. Little blurb from Comp below:
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/044.html
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/258.html

You thinking hydraulic roller, or solid roller? Pretty close cost involved either way, the solid will involve periodic lash setting.
If hydraulic roller, look into retrofit kits from Crane and Comp Cams for an idea of the parts and cost. Little blurb from Comp below:
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/044.html
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/258.html
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From: USA
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Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
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